treeman

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I did check everything you suggested, and more. I have been very concious of maintanence since day one. Except the valve clearances.. I guess I have no idea how to do this. I thought that 2.5 engines were hydraulic lifters and required no periodic adjustments. Where do I look, and what do I check? B

On my Y2K OBW, the mileage has dropped consistently. I was getting 22-23 mpg. for around the City street/freeway driving. The last 3 tanks, it's been 20. The CEL has never come on, except like it's supposed to at start-up. With 82500 on the odometer, could the mileage drop be the sign of an O2 sensor going bad? Other than changing them out and running for a month or so, is there any way to tell if one or both are getting weak? Bradford

I like the head-gasket idea. Here in Houston, there's more Hummers than Subies. I always wave to other OBWs, but have recieved a few 1 finger salutes in return. Bradford

Hi, guys and gals- I need to change the clutch in my 2000 Outback. What is the right clutch-is it Exedy #15801, or are there better ones for an "everyday, drive conservatively and safely, get-me-there-every-time" type of car? Bradford

Soory-the "grab bar" is a horizontal "towel rack" bar mounted right under the rear license plate. It merely makes it more comfortable to close the rear hatch. Nothing glamorous, but useful and doesn't look bad. Bradford

Does anyone know of a shop in Houston who can change the clutch in my Y2KOBW? I had several things done today by the dealer, most covered by extended warranty. I also got the coolant conditioner put in. 2 CV boots, steering rack boot, crank+ cam seal, tie rod end+alignment, A/C and water pump belts. I also paid to have them change out the timing belt+ check out everything on the car. By the way, the extended warranty was NOT worth it. But to change the clutch, they wanted $900 plus change. GAK! Legacy777, I believe you're here in Houston. Do you do this kind of work, or know who does? I'm in NW city near 610+290. Thanks, Bradford

I am having the coolant conditioner added today. I never did get a notice. My notice was y'alls posts on this message board. I am glad the warranty on the headgaskets is extended to 100K. Also, it was "free", my favorite word.

Well, I bought mine at the dealer before I took delivery of the car. Neither the rear spoiler or the grab bar is very hard to install, and (believe it or not) the dealer installed them "free". Do a search for Subaru parts and there are many aftermarket outlet houses.The dealer has a little catalog of accessories at the parts counter. Take money, take lots of money. They do have some very cool coats and hats, etc. Bradford

While cleaning and running Seafoam thru the intake, and changing oil+filter today, I noticed a little coolant seepage on the right head. It's not even wet, just crusty green crystals. If this is the infamous 2.5 Head Gasket problem, I guess I'll find out Monday, as I have an appointment with the stealer to put in the coolant conditioner. The overflow tank does have a scummy, thin layer of oil in it. My question is-how serious is an external coolant seep? Other than the slight mess and having to top up the radiator somewhat more frequently, what harm can it do? Treeman

The little tweeter speakers on the triangles in front of the front door windows make the stock radio sound about 100 times better. The rear compartment rubber mat helps keep the back clean- I've hauled x-squared loads of dirt, bricks, and mulch back there. The grab bar for the rear door is a nice touch-functional and looks good, too. The rear wind deflector (or whatever it is called) looks really good and keeps the back window from building up a layer of dust. Bradford

Hey, fellas and gals: Got a question. I bought a can of Seafoam to run thru my intake and clean it out (we used to do the same on old VWs with diesel of ATF) On this forum, everyone says change the oil immediately after using Seafoam. Yet the can doesn't say this-it says Seafoam is OK to use in fuel, oil, or directly thru manifold. No big deal to change the oil, but if it's going thru the injectors or manifold, why does the oil need to be changed? Bradford

Rob D. I changed the pads on my Y2KOBW at 55,000 miles. They are easy enough to change. I used dealer stock replacements pads, though I'm sure there are better aftermarket pads available. The only non-common tool I used was a large C-clamp to push the pistons back into the caliper before installing the new pads. I suppose you could use a large screwdriver, and I've known some guys who could do this with their hands, but I can't. Pins can be driven out with a hammer and a suitable pin punch, or just file off the point on a big nail that fits. I changed brake fluid at 60,000, as it was rich amber in color (like honey) indicating that it had absorbed moisture. Usually, I do most work myself, but since the Sooby brake system is more complicated than anything I've had before, I had a reputable shop do it for $105.00, probably too much-I don't care, it isn't done often and I know it's right. There seemed to be an instant improvement in braking, on a small level, maybe 5-10%, but noticable. Next time, I probably won't wait so long. I live in a very humid area (coastal Texas). You may go shorter or longer, though I suspect Portland is really humid, too. Color is a good indicator, but I think there are test strips available for a couple bucks. You can do this-hope this helps Bradford

Hello to one and all, long-time lurker/first time poster. There are some right smart folks on here.I, too, have a Y2KOBW, Blue-baru. I keep hearing of impending doom regarding the headgaskets and poor brakes. After 77,000 miles, I can honestly say this has been the best vehicle I have ever owned. I've driven VWs for decades, but have had a variety of cars, Amur-can and fer-un. I had a injector go bad at 28K, but 2 hours at the dealer fixed that. I haven't seen any leaks- oil, or coolant, yet. And the brakes are the best I've ever used, saved my behind a few times (we do a LOT of freeway stop-n-go driving in Houston!) Last week I had a very smelly smoke come up and I thought my wife, driving the car at the time, had smoked the clutch, but after getting it up on the ramps, I see the right inside CV boot had split, and thrown grease on the exhaust, which couldn't be 3" away. All that heat must really dry out the rubber. I noticed the steering boot on that side was roasted and recently split, too. As soon as I can get the parts and the time to fix these things I will. The clutch, she's a-slippin' and I'm trying to figure if there is some sort of adjustment or if it's time to replace the clutch. I do ocassionally have the dreaded clutch judder, which usually only happens in cooler weather after start-up in the morning. Less than no big deal. I replaced the battery at 50K. I'll be changing the Timing belt, hoses, other belts, cam/ crank shaft seals, checking/replacing the water pump and belt tensioner and adding the cooling system additive as others have recommended. Oh, and running a can of Seafoam into the engine to burn out accumulated carbon (if there is any). All this with the next 10,000 miles. Times have changed, and new cars require a lot of expensive maintanence that you better not blow off. But, that's what it will take to run 200,000 or more miles. All in all, a great car. Bradford