struculeus

I have a 1987 GL Turbo wagon, 2wd. Last weekend I degreased the engine, and was careful to cover the distributor cap (or so I thought). It ran fine for awhile, until later as I was driving the car just crapped out. I couldn't get it started again. So, I checked the distributor cap, and there was a little condensation under it. I replaced both the cap and the rotor. But that didn't change anything. It occasionally will start up now, if I feather the gas just right (and even then, it won't be much more than 500 - 1000 rpm), but I can't keep it running. It's getting gas, I can smell it. But when it does run, the tachometer is all over the place, and when I test the spark, it seems to be sparking intermittently. Here's my thoughts: 1. Maybe the electronics in the distributor are bad (because of condensation??). I went on my lunch break today to PAP and picked up a disty out of another 87 turbo. I'll replace it and see if that changes anything. Also, I had a spare ignition coil, but that didn't change anything so I know that's not it. 2. Maybe it's the MAF? How do I check that? Those are pretty pricey, and the bone-yard didn't have one in good shape. Does anyone have one for sale? 3. Maybe I should disconnect the O2 sensor? But would that cause the problem? Any help, or advice on what to check would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Personally, I wouldn't worry about until you know for sure that you haven't passed, and by how much. J

1991 Loyale, the rear window defrost not working. The switch seems to be working fine, the indicator on the dash comes on. The fuses are still good. Any ideas??? Thanks in advance! J

Light underneath the dash? I thought the code was relyed through the check engine light in the dash. Isn't the light under the dash on the older ones, not the 1991? If not, where would it be? J

The check engine light comes on as soon as I turn the car on, but when I run the check memory test, nothing comes out. It does't flash, it just stays on. It sucks! J

Torxxx - It has 115,000. Setright - Thanks for the tip, I will look into it. CIS Subaru - I know what you mean. I've had to replace quite a few of those on the other Subs I've had. But usually, the computer will tell you when one of those goes out. I have a spare, and I will replace it and see what happens. I'm open to more ideas if anyone has any! And thanks!

I have a 1991 Loyale. The check engine light was on, the idle is a little rough. I tried to get the computer to spit the code out, but no codes were revealed. The service manual says to replace the ECU. I replace the ECU (with one from PAP), the car starts up, the idle is a bit high, but the check engine light is not on. Then it warms up, the check engine light comes on (d'oh!). Again, I try and read the engine code, but it's not spitting anything out, and the light won't go out! I've tried to D-Check it, and Clear Memory, but that doesn't work either. I NEED HELP!!! To paraphrase Ben Stein in Ferris Bueller "Anyone, Anyone?"

I use a magnetized stubby philips head. When the little bastard is unscrewed, it sticks to the screwdriver. Works well. If you have a dead speaker (or any large magnet) around, you can magnetize any screwdriver. Just stick the magnet to it, and pull it the leng of the shaft the way you would if you were sharpening a knife. Do it a dozen times or so, and the screwdriver should be plenty magnetized for awhile. One you drop the screwdriver or bang things, it'll get unmagnetized, but it should be more than enough for removing the rotor screw. J

Bubbles on the stick indicate bad seals around the oil pump. It's pumping air and oil, instead of just (or mostly) oil. You could be getting better oil pressure with a better sealed pump. Also, because of the H-style engine (or pancake, as they're sometimes called), the oil gunk (which is normal) can get into the passage ways and gum it up, or clog it easier. When I get the tappy sound, I usually run some motor flush through it to try and clean up the passage ways, lifter, etc... so the oil can lubricate better. It has never failed to stop the sound yet (knock on wood). J

Bump... Does anyone have some feedback or ideas on this one? J

91 Loyale. Car runs well, but check engine light is on. I connect the read memory wires, but it will not spit any codes out. I've never had any problems like this before. The book says if nothing comes out, the ECU is bad. But the car is running fine otherwise, so I have a difficult time thinking the ECU is bad. Any experience with this, or any ideas? J

Maybe check the ground, or run a supplemental ground strap to the lights. J

Maybe check the Timing Belts... J

Man, I refuse to sell cars to friends / aquaintences any more. Used cars will always have something wrong with them, because they are used. And when something breaks, or goes out on them, who do they call - you! It's like an implied warranty. And some of it too, is that I feel somewhat guilty, even though I know I shouldn't, so then I generally help them out with the problem. The best solution, is just to not sell to someone I know. When I sell a car, I don't want anything more to do with it. J

Sorry dude, just giving you a ration. Love all around!