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plogerjb

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Woodbridge, VA
  • Interests
    Mustang
  • Occupation
    Auto Tech/Inspector
  • Referral
    Google, lifted subaru
  • Biography
    24 year old mechanic with plenty of experience in the V8 world
  • Vehicles
    02 Legacy Wagon

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  1. Don't have any info on that, but as someone who is currently dealing with headaches, I highly recommend paying good attention to the torque converter and oil pump shaft assembly.
  2. Here's your diagnostic pinpoint procedure for a non engaging clutch... Should be helpful. You have two fuses, one relay, dual pressure switch. fan switch, AC switch, and an evaporator thermostat. You say the light at the switch comes on, which kinda rules that out as a problem for me. I assume your blower fan works (or else we'd be talking about that), but that doesn't rule out any possible harness issues. You say the clutch engages when jumping the relay, but is that leaving the relay in place and tripping it or are you bypassing it completely? Forgive me, I'm kinda worn out from this weekend. Let me know if there's anything else I can do to help.
  3. Seems basic, but I'd try doing a cold and a hot compression test to see if you have worn rings or something of that nature.
  4. Actually have never thought of this... color me impressed. As fair as the wheel stud length goes, you should be able to get some with the same knurl diameter and thread with more length... might take some poking around online or at a parts store, but they're out there I'm sure.
  5. Wild guess here, but cam and crank position sensors are a common failure part under hot conditions and will often cause intermittent issues. Difficult to check without a high end scanner or oscilloscope though.
  6. Longer bolts isn't an issue. That's just a trip to the hardware store/McMaster. Considering the struts attach to a spindle that is attached to control arms that attach to the subframe... I'll file that under remote. It's only useful for reducing CV angles, but it is part of the system. I see equal length headers, but most seem poorly designed with regards to routing and collectors. Unequal length gives a more distinct sound because the pressure wave energy is being dissipated as kinetic energy OUT of the car, rather than using that same force to scavenge the cylinder. This results in one bank achieving a different volumetric efficiency (assuming NA), along with all the tuning/driveability issues that go with it. Basically, half the engine will peak at low RPM, the other at high - unfortunately ALL of the unequal length headers are still wayyy too short on the short side for the RPM ranges used. You might as well be running half a header and a log manifold.
  7. K&N (even drop in replacement) will net you a little power, assuming your current filter is restrictive. Here's the deal - colder air is denser air, allowing you to inject more fuel at the same throttle position. This means more torque under max load condition, but at part throttle you're only using a certain amount ANYWAY. If there were any gains to be had, they're from reducing pumping losses, which is minimal compared to the rest of the frictional and drag losses on the vehicle. Long story short, a properly designed cold air intake (out of engine bay, in a high pressure area) will net you a bit of power, but if you're looking for MPG, dream on. More likely to pick up MPG by running hot air as it will improve fuel atomization. But hey, at least they look cool. Check out the inlet system chapters of A. Graham Bell's Four Stroke Performance Tuning for some more info on the matter. Make sure to check a more recent revision of the book so it includes fuel injected stuff and not just the carb section. -Jeff
  8. Heads up, resetting the code doesn't really do anything. It resets your monitors and turns the light off, sure. However, those same monitors will come back up in the same amount of time that the light would have gone off on its own if the problem was corrected or intermittent. Check engine lights clear themselves if the issue no longer exists. Six to one, half dozen to another I suppose, just saying it would be a waste of your time to go out of your way to reset the light. A p0420 isn't going to change the operation of the engine whatsoever, as the ECU is going to do its best to continue checking for catalytic converter operation.
  9. Not really trying to go rock crawling, not my cup of tea. You call it ruining a good Subaru, I call it custom. Rally would be closer to the goal. Thanks for the advice on the Outback struts - note taken. Will likely be a junkyard pull unless I come across some decent factory replacements at a good price. I'm a tech, so I might be able to get some at cost. Some call it a body lift, I visualize it more as a subframe drop, as that's what it really accomplishes. All I'm worried about height wise is clearing 28" or so tires. Sounds like this is gonna take the struts and maybe a little strut spacer action, we'll measure after the struts go on. I'm willing to sacrifice a couple axles every now and then, not a big deal to put them in on a lift. Sounds like I'll go with the turbo gaskets then, although I'm sure that's what was used last time... with the bolts reused... hmmm. Definitely getting new bolts or studs, it was just a matter or who from. They're torque to yield and I'm not chancing it. Heads will definitely be going to a machine shop for proper work, possibly a valve job depending on when I hit the lottery. That InfernoFab header looks nice, but it's still lacking on primary length on the one side. No dice for me, I think. I'll keep looking. Thanks for the advice guys. Looking forward to getting this project rolling after a snowy winter with the Mustang stranded for weeks.
  10. Check the operation of the rear o2, front 02, then cat, in that order. Can be done with any datalogging scanner or by any decent mechanic. Any physical damage should be corrected first, of course.
  11. Hey guys, second post here, I just introduced myself elsewhere on the forum. I'm about to be the proud owner of an 02 Legacy Wagon 2.5NA 4EAT. I wanted to outline my goals for the car and see if any advice can be offered. It is going to be my daily driver (on days when T-Tops are a no go), but mods are certainly not out of the question. First things first, It has a blown head gasket. I know the history of the car, and this is the second time. The first time, the gaskets were replaced and it was reassembled. Lasted a few years, but it's back to the garage again - hence my acquisition. I'm planning on pulling the entire motor apart to do the head gaskets, head bolts, all other gaskets/seals, and most likely a ring/hone/bearing job. A few questions... What's the best head gasket money can buy? I'm tempted to go with the Fel-Pro MLS, as I've had them on my iron/aluminum 5.0 for years without problems, and have even reused them. Head bolts - get them from Subaru or go aftermarket? I'm leaning toward ARP head studs, as they've also treated me well on the 5.0, but they are a bit expensive. Worth it or what? Any recommended head/intake/exhaust mods while I'm in there? I'm not afraid to whip a die grinder or whatever else around. Going for maximum reliable torque. Not planning on going boosted with this block. I've seen references to a mod involving a switch to lock the trans in 50/50. Does this apply to my Legacy, or not? I've seen conflicting information. End goal is off road capability, so if it applies, I'm all in. Limited slip diffs - I'm assuming this vehicle doesn't have it - how much does it matter, and how hard is it to find? I'm talking more of junkyard finds or swaps than aftermarket most likely. Planning on custom exhaust... I don't really care for how the aftermarket headers look from an engineering standpoint, so I'm probably gonna fab my own if it looks doable. 4-2-1 would be better than a 4-1, but that may be impossible with my desired routing. We'll see. Other than that, I'm probably gonna toss any resonators and keep the factory muffler if it isn't too quiet. Cats... they may be on the car for a day every couple of years, but I don't care for how much they quiet down the sound/melt when spoob goes wrong. As far as the drivetrain goes, that's all I have for now. On to suspension... Definitely going to be lifted. From what I can tell, this is going to be a combination of struts, strut spacers, possibly subframe spacers, and taller tires. Are Forester struts the hot ticket for this? If so, am I using my springs, Forester springs, aftermarket springs... etc. I'll drill any holes I need to fit it. Most concerned about stuffing tires in. What's it going to take to stuff a 28-29" tire in there? I'm looking at General Grabber AT2s, Most likely 215/70/16 (just over 28). The other option is 225/75/16, but something tells me I'm already cutting it close.... (get it? cutting? oh I'm killin me... ) I'm planning on having to mod for fitment, I'm just looking for advice from anyone who has done it. Strut spacers - Rumor has it 2" is the max for this without wild changes to suspension for axle fitment. Any advice on the matter would be appreciated. Subframe spacers - Does this actually really net me any clearance? Is it worth it? I'm planning on starting a build thread once I get the vehicle in my possession, taking pictures the whole way. I realize starting with a 2.5 Lego has me fighting the current the whole way, but it's what I have and I really need to shut my Jeep friend up with this thing. Looking forward to many offroad/rally adventures with my heated seats... -Jeff
  12. Hey guys. To introduce myself: I'm 24, work full time as an auto technician and inspector. I have years of experience around cars - live eat sleep and breathe them. I'm not talking about supercars, I'm talking home grown street and race business. I'm in the process of acquiring my first Subaru after owning an 86 Mustang 5.0 T-Top 5.0 for nine years. It was time for a second car so I could focus on the Stang... of course this now just means I have two cars to mod. I look forward to constructive conversation, and can hopefully add my own two cents to this bank of information.
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