hzimmerman1111

Had to respond to mention of a specific brand of gasoline, Chevron. What few know is all gasoline grades are basically the same, save for the octane ratings (another topic). The ascertainable difference is the additive packages - detergents - that each of the company will add quite late in the distribution process. I am a previous Mobil Oil operations employee spending 12 years in that business. Oil companies frequently trade out their fuels, based on octane, and trade these throughout North America and internationally. This adds big efficiencies to the system. Feel free to use the lesser cost station of your choice, unless you are sold on a particular detergent additive.

Look on top center of the block for the EJ25 casting mark if any doubt. Look straight down behind the alternator. And ditto what idosubaru said.

Same thought on the valves. You'll need a compression gauge with extension hose that screws into the spark plug hole. Waiting for your readings. A physical way to check for bent intake valves is to remove a VC and when rotating the motor - - the intakes will have absurdly large slack since those valves are not seating.

This must be the "old home week" post. I lived in Haymarket VA for 27 years and remember the Howard Johnsons at Front Royal very well, and also The Leather Coat in The Plains. I would go south to get older Subaru's though -- once got a Forester that started life in NJ and later discovered the rust. Only northern VA gets regular winter salt. Mobil 1 is not junk and they invented the synthetic market with their Delvac and Mobil 1 synthetics back in the 70's for the aviation market. Their SOAP (spectrographic oil analysis program) is the best in the industry. Oil additives are not needed. If you have the skill to do engine, alternatives are the OEM short block, an ex Japan engine, or a domestic engine from a company like SW, or dismantle what you have and as long as the case is not damaged you should be able to rebuild that, but maybe not considering your failure narrative. You can get a complete new OEM crankshaft for about $400.00. IMHO it makes no sense to get another same year hi mileage car that you do not know the history of.

I could get "kicked off this board" but I solved a 2001 OB EJ25 leaker 200K for about 2 years with Steel Seal product. For that product, you just pour it in and in my case it sealed the HG leak in about 10 minutes. Later I did the right thing and did the engine HGs [ maybe I get to stay on the board? ]. At the time I had no good place to work on the car and it got me over the hump. Steel Seal worked after others did not. Obviously confirm if it is the HG, since EJ22 has a better record than the EJ25s.

I have some first-hand experience and just finish repairing my friend's '01 OB EJ251. Here is my post started this May. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/163483-outback-01-does-not-run-after-14k-with-ej25-changeout/ The belt broke going about 55 mph. No way do the intake valves survive it but everything else was fine including the pistons. I got it back on the road with just rebuilding the heads and reassembly with the usual assortment of parts . HZ Charlotte

You're getting great advice above but if you have doubts now if you want to get into it on your own, best to either have a shop do it or "spring" for the $ for complete units. Last time I did front/ rear OB '01 / it was very time-consuming - swore I would not do it again. All of the above suggestions I did - 3 spring compressors, vice grips, marking positions. It's just a hard job on your own and the way the springs are wound makes it a challenge. Your biggest decision point -- what is your time worth?

It must be missing some of its hardware. Kind of a general description, but sometimes the side screws are forgotten -- the ones you get to inside the front wheel wells. This site can probably assist better with more specific information.

Right GeneralDisorder on your diagnosis!, Found that lower edge of the air box collar to throttle body was curled under, making a straw-like passage for the air to pass through and hence the entrance of unmetered air causing the P0171. I reinstalled it more carefully. Have about 130 miles on it now and no codes. Thanks all for their posting input during this Outback repair.

Changed out TB with a Mitsuboshi brand and replaced all rollers (except water pump which I hope I do not regret later). Started up OK and runs strong. Now getting a P0171 code. BTW those curious, the valve clearances were crazy large and when I got the heads off and sure enough, #4 was the worst but all intake valves exhibited bending so bad and obvious gaping open about 2 mm where they couldn't possibly seal. If I can find and solve the PO171 fault [sYSTEM DETECTS LEAN FUEL MIXTURE - BANK 1 ] this one is behind me. Moral: PAY ATTENTION TO TIMING BELTS!!! BREAKING ONE CREATES A LOT OF REPAIR WORK on the interference engines. Further, if you have a TB like the one above with those picture markings (and wish I could find the manufacturer), do not use it!

Never thought this could happen at 14 K miles. Further detail on the compression test. My friend had Outback towed to Pep Boys at first. They did compression test and reported 50% compression and gave 4 readings. I verified their test and got zero at #1 piston. I went no further then pulled engine covers and found the broken belt. Very suspicious they were able to get compression readings on all 4 cylinders with a broken timing belt.

Yes, GD. That keeper is in place, case you get bumped from the rear normally. Well now I can make my post more interesting. This was catastrophic failure. Belt broke cleanly in one place, showing its fibers. Only had one other timing belt even fail on me - 86 Honda Accord but it just slipped a tooth. I checked all of the pulleys and do not see any sign of freeze-up. All of it was replaced with the TB replacement 14K miles ago, Cam gears do not feel frozen and move with normal resistance. I am also aware of the interference fit design so this cannot be good. I am however curious enough to consider putting one of my used timing belts back on and do a compression test. If magically if it comes out to 220 psi per cylinder - unlikely???? - . At minimum it would allow me to ensure the engine rotates around freely before pulling the heads. Ever seen anything like this? This car was running great until this happened. This is highly disturbing. If the engine rotates smoothly with TB belt in place, what could possibly cause this kind of failure? I have been reading the discussion about parts - about them not being equal - I admittedly was on a budget when I did this engine work last year. I do not think I will be so cavalier when buying key engine parts again.

My only pearl of wisdom is to break the axle nuts free with car on the ground - just enough so they will remove later. Remove the caps at center of wheels to expose the nut.(might be obvious to some folks but not everyone). When free with your breaker bar then jack car up and remove your wheel. You don't have to live up north to have those ball joints tough to get loose. Taking the pinch bolt out and disconnecting ball joint that way is the best if possible though. If you take struts loose it is a good idea to get an alignment afterwards.

I changed out original 276K motor with used 76K . Outback is 5 spd manual. Did all wear point replacement and of gaskets / 5 Star HG. Car had been running great. Normal MPG 28 or so. No symptoms displayed before breakdown. Sold to my friend and has now come back to me for the repair. I did not use a genuine Subaru timing belt so that is in the back of my head. Compression is about 50% ~ 110psi. No spark with induction timing light. Car sounds different than I remember when turning over also. Oil is clean. So any other suggestions before I start disassembly? Any experience with premature timing belt failures? This was my 5th Subaru timing belt and easiest since I had the motor out. So could the belt have slipped one tooth and reduced the compression? Why no spark with an induction timing light? Any advice appreciated.

Hi, Regarding your concern on head gaskets, in many instances they typically fail and cause the level of coolant to rise and the engine starts to overheat. Many times you can see bubbles in the overflow tank. You are at the right blog site for lots of experts on this HG subject. Does not sound like you are describing that condition. They can actually be changed without pulling the engine but it is challenging. It is almost easier to pull the engine in the long run if this occurs. No it is not normal to have the motor run poorly after doing an oil change or cleaning the air filter. Could by symptomatic of something else or you are just getting used to the sounds..If you do not do your own work, try to find a local club as a 16 year old Subaru with 175 K will begin needing things. These cars are very easy to work on and a real joy if you know what you are doing. Do change out those VC gaskets and clean up all of that oil, and you will then see more clearly what is going on. If the VC are in need of changing, no doubt the HG are original. You are way overdue for the VC replacement. 174 K / 116 K miles is young for that EJ25 engine though.