nicksubaru

Hmmm now that sounds possible. Grind the steams at the end. What would you guys use to handle that?

With this 07 wrx ej255 block and 04 forester b25 heads should i look for thinner head gaskets? Or the CR won't change enough to matter and just use 04 full gasket set?

There might be misunderstanding. These are just buckets as the shim. The top is riding on the cam then inside the bucket is the valve steam

How do you grind the shims even? Guess I could use glass and sandpaper... But that i bet there's a better way

Head work, other then bucket valve adjustment, i can do myself.

If i spit the case, i probably won't be able to put the case halfs back together perfectly. Then it will blow up on me anyways.....so yea....

https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/171622-ej25-sohc-2000-ob-head-gasket/

Just found an ej255 out of an 07 wrx for $600 with 169k org miles. Shop pulled it for a leak on an exhaust valve. Passed leak down after that. Customer wanted new short block anyways. That would be good right? With the b25 heads with a wrx/forester sized turbo

That was me who did that swap. And i was driving that car early today. Still running strong. I would have to actually spilt the case halfs to get access to the #1 rod bearing as the water passage runs in the way. I feel that as soon as i spit the case then i have to have mechine work done. I still have to find a good mechine shop around here (Sacramento, CA ). Just haven't had time to ask around yet.

$2000 for a short block is the last chance option. But thank you for your advice. Heads should be fine. I was planning on a light port & polish if i have wait time in the middle of working on it. When/if i spit the case halfs i will know if the any of the bearing journals are messed up or not.

Hello all. I have an 04 forester ej25 b25 heads turbo. Pulled motor, stripped down to short block. Its slop on #1 and started on #2 rod bearings im guessing. Looking for advice. To save money and have a running turbo Forrester. I have an ej22 na 92 short block that's been to the machine shop then has sat in plastic wrap for years..... Some kind of frankenstein motor....?? What other short blocks could i even put in between those b25 heads? Or should i just take the short block to the shop? Or jdm an ej205 or ej20x? Swap cams after?

We are way off topic of the OP...

In the states. If you look on the driver door of an old gl with stock duel range. It says "light truck" the tax was that anything with a spilt gear box was considered a truck. And thats the tax. That's why weird work around were happening like the brats back seats. But eventually the work arounds stopped. In Japan subaru isn't just sadans, and station wagons. They have all types of bodies that the states never see. Other work arounds are kinda around. Like the older wrxs with the 4 doors are not "sports cars"

Im getting zeros codes. The front or back 02 sensor is in charge of the catalyst monitor?

Does anyone think that if i change the ecu out, would that possibly fix the not ready issue?

Also, i dont have a live feed obd2 reader. But i do have a laptop and cable.

My main focus is to get this car CA smog legit.

I thought that too. But i looked at the car again lately. Its not the 02 monitor like i thought. It is the Catalyst. So, what sensor or sensors are in charge of that monitor? Could the ecu its self not functioning correctly? Im not trying to use romraider or ecu flash anymore because i dont have definitions for it. If i did, i would just check the "monitors always ready" box. The car runs perfectly well and zero CEL. I wouldn't be polluting any differently then if that one monitor would be "ready".

That is where im at on things. I don't have definitions

In my experience, i have had almost zero problems with manual subaru transmissions. Out of a dozen or so cars. And the only problems I've had with any subaru transmissions. One was out of a 03 forester auto. Front diff ate itself. Other a clutch fork from a 00 outback. Forester had about 235k and tge outback about 315k.

Car runs great!

I have a basic code reader.

NA. naturally aspirated. I was the one who sold the car to the current owner. I had a problem 2 years ago to get the same readyness to pass. Its only the o2 that won't "ready". In CA, for this car. It won't pass smog inspection with this one in particular not ready. Before i sold the car i needed it to smog. And i was able to get it to become ready with normal driving. Its time for them to smog it now. Then the cat was not working correctly, they had a shop weld in a new one. Everything els including the evp monitor all become ready. Just not the o2 for some reason??? So.... I was going to use romraider to see if i can log any other issues as i already have it. The cable works fine on my turbo cars. This is the 1st time ive tried it on a non-turbo, NA car. I know the car has driven alot of miles. I have personally drove it 600 miles trying to set the readyness for that monitor.

The lower end is what you go by if that 2.5 block is worth messing with or not. How many times has it been over heated? If zero, and you know that. Do the head gasket.

No one has any suggestions?