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Terry in Oz

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About Terry in Oz

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  • Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
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    web search
  • Biography
    I bought my first Liberty (Legacy in the US) 2 years ago and fell in love with Subaru's, so much so that I've since bought 2 more.
  • Vehicles
    Subaru Liberty
  1. Terry in Oz

    ej22 Performance Upgrades

    Well the I got the car back from the shop around lunchtime, so I paid the registration and insurance, and took it for a drive. It goes really well, but needs some more pep, so tomorrow I'll fit the pod filter and drive around to the muffler shop and ask them to install the headers and a new muffler. It's a pity I don't have access to a dyno, (they are few and far between around here, and last time I had a motorcycle dyno'd it cost me 300 bucks) so I'll just have to dust off my "Seat-of-the-pants-o'meter", and make an (un)educated guess at the improvement. Cheers, Terry. ;D
  2. Terry in Oz

    ej22 Performance Upgrades

    Sorry for dragging up an old thread, but I've just bought my third 1995 Liberty ("Legacy" outside Oz) in three years, so that's one Subaru per year, ha ha! My first car was my $450 auto front wheel drive Liberty with the EJ22, it has lived a hard life at the hands of several young guys with more testosterone than sense, so not one panel on the car is the exact same shade of green as the other, but the engine is a gem, and with (as far as I know) only a louder end muffler, not only sounds fantastic, it has tons of torque, revs like a motorcycle engine, and goes really well. My 1995 AWD Liberty with twin turbo EJ20 engine and 5 speed manual box out of a Legacy GT(?) was a bargain at $500, even though it had a blown head gasket, leaking seals etc, is now a joy to drive, so much so that my son wanted it more than I did, but I still get to "test" drive it for him, as the resident mechanic. I gave the old green Liberty to my Mum (Mom) as she's 86 and her 40 year old Triumph TC2500 is starting to become a little unreliable due to an electrical fault which has recently manifested, so I looked around for another Subaru for myself, and found a minty 1995 two owner Liberty AWD auto for, once again, $500. The car was bought new and driven daily by a couple right up until May last year, and when the old guy died and the little old lady moved into a retirement home, the home's maintenance manager bought it. He only drove it until the registration expired, then put it on "Gumtree" (like Craigslist) where it sat for several months until I came along. The car's always been maintained by the first owners, and it's last service was in January. My first drive impression was that it felt a little restricted compared to the green car, so I've bought a set of unequal length stainless 4-2-1 stainless steel headers, and a pod filter and adapter. I can't install it until after I get the car registered, (it's currently in the shop having some remedial repairs done after it failed it's "Roadworthy" inspection due to a cracked windscreen, torn steering knuckle gaitor, and sadly, an oil leak) but I'll take it around to a muffler shop and get them to install the headers and a freer flowing rear muffler, and I'll fit the pod, and hopefully that will make it feel a little peppier. I also own a Ford Explorer V6 SOHC and one owner managed to get an additional 19 BHP on the dyno just by adding a pod filter, so if I get anything like that with the improved intake and exhaust system, I'll be really happy! Sorry also for the long post, but this is an interesting subject. Cheers, Terry.
  3. Oh, OK, that makes sense, I wondered as I watched that vid how the Seafoam could completely clean the valve without it rotating. I ordered some Seafoam (it's hard to find here, and expensive) but I'll keep it for future use, and just use some throttle body cleaner for this job. Thanks again for your help mate, much appreciated! Cheers, Terry.
  4. I saw a utube clip of a guy emptying a bottle of Seafoam into his IAC valve with the engine running, is this recommended? I'd rather not remove the IAC if I don't have to? Cheers, Terry.
  5. Yes mate, I'm constantly learning new things about these wonderful cars, I was just looking at a u tube clip of someone cleaning out the idle control motor to fix the erratic idle, that might be my next job! Cheers, Terry.
  6. Well thanks to Fairtax, my little Liberty is up and running again, thanks mate! I've no idea how I missed it, but the big hose had come off the intake tube, causing a massive vacuum leak. It's all good now, but I really wish I'd noticed it before I spent 295 bucks on a new MAF! Cheers, Terry.
  7. G'Day Guys, first of all, "Terry in Oz" is my new username, I was previously registered as "Terry in Australia", but for some reason I couldn't log on today, and I need some help ASAP, so I re-registered. I haven't been active here for a year or so because my first Liberty (Legacy) has been so reliable, so I apologise for my absence, in advance. Anyhoo, since I bought the old green 1995 Liberty (Legacy) FWD, I've also bought a 1994 Liberty with twin turbo Legacy engine and running gear, which I love, but my son loves it more, so he owns it now, and I just bought a minty "one owner" 1995 AWD Liberty (EJ22, Auto transmission) that I'm doing a little work on before I put it back on the road next week. It was a regularly serviced car, (timing belts changed 30,000 miles ago) so apart from replacing most of the fluids (oil and filter, coolant and thermostat, brake fluid) I've replaced all 4 brake rotors and pads, as the old ones were getting a little thin. The only other problem (apart from the fuel gauge not working) has been an erratic idle, whether it's hot or cold. The idle speed will jump up to 1500 RPM or so, so I thought that perhaps the MAF sensor needed a clean? I've done this before on my green Liberty and the twin turbo-beast, I had a can of MAF cleaner in my toolbox, so I gave it a good clean and reassembled it, and hit the starter. The car fired right up, the tach needle rose to around 1500 RPM, then dropped down to around 1000 RPM, then conked out. I tried again, and again and again, and still it wouldn't keep running after the initial fire-up. Assuming that the MAF sensor had gone to God, I bought a shiny new(ish) reconditioned one, ($295.00, ouch!) installed it, hit the key, and......... no difference! Damn! I removed the cable plug from the MAF and it fired right up and idled at 1000 RPM, and I was able to move the car out of the carport so my wife could move her car out, but as soon as I re-connected the plug, the engine immediately stopped. I don't have a code reader, nor do I know how to use one anyway, so I'm wondering if anyone here can help? Please? It really annoys me that apart from the erratic idle issue before I removed and re-fitted the MAF, it was running perfectly, and now it's pretty much a "non-runner". Thanks in advance guys, Cheers, Terry.