rabbidrabbit

The ports probably are 5 volts at 1 amp. Your phone probably needs higher amp rating. Not sure how to go about getting the amps you need other than pulling the usb and replacing with a higher amperage.

Oh and a pic would be nice! Just don't use Photobucket to host it.

You are good on the Forester bits. If you want more lift you need to get the sub frame lift bits from a 98-99 Legacy Outback wagon. There was a pic of all the parts you could get but Photobucket pulled third party hosting so it is pretty much gone. I downloaded it awhile back so excuse the crappy pic. I don't own a scanner. I'm trying to find more info on why it suggest using Forester Transverse Links and if 98-99 Legacy Outback will work okay(I don't see why not). I know they are longer but I am having a hard time getting a set and have the Outback ones.

Ugg to bad you aren't in Atlanta. I would give/help you install this spare ej25d that I have for some help parting the 98 Legacy Wagon it is in.

Take that line to Autozone should be able to get the same size from the bulk roll. I am not 100% sure but that looks like a coolant line that keeps the carb from freezing up in cold weather.

A/C isn't that hard to work on. Replacing o-rings is pretty simple, just be cautious not to damage the new ones when you put it back together. Most importantly, make sure your system is completely vacuumed of all Freon before doing anything. These lines have quite a bit of pressure and when they pop the blow oil and Freon everywhere. Not good for the eyes or the environment.

I've used cheap nail polish, it lasts pretty long.

My Walmart had a $20 OBD scanner, works well for my Subie, Scion, neighbours Toyota and Kia.

I watched a few vids and did mine(ej22) super simple to do. I only watched the to get a better understanding of Subaru since it was my first.

If you got them from a walk in store take them back and check them against another set for your car. It wouldn't be the first time Autozone or the like have given wrong parts.

I've noticed a bit more of a stiffer ride in my 97 sedan with 99 Outback wagon suspension. I do not have the 1" spacers. I think the stiffness comes from the suspension being made for a car that is a bit heaver. I have nothing to back that up just something that I have in my head.

Is the transmission cross member the same for auto and manual?

What fluid are you using? I bought some Autozone fluid for my 70 Beetle and it was bad. Switched to something else(Prestone?) and they finally pumped up. I had just replaced everything from the master to the wheel cylinders, lines hard and soft included.

My 97 Legacy on 99 Outback Wagon springs/struts. Wish I would have done the 1" rear sub frame while I was at it and the 1" trailing arm lift. It is sitting on 225/60/16 Forester rims/tires. The spring/strut was a tight fit and you will have to disconnect the front and rear sway bars, you can reconnect them once it is back on the ground if you want. I left my disconnected.

I do not know much about the Legacy wagon but this is my 97 Legacy L. All I have put on is 99 Outback Wagon strut/spring assemblies and a set of Forester 16" rims with 225/60 tires. I went from 6" of ground clearance to 9" at the front pinch weld. I read a lot but still got really confused on what to do/use. I am not real happy with the tires but for $40 for all four rims and tires I will "suffer" till I can afford better. I think with a 215/75 I might be able to get another .5" lift. I really would like to do a 1" spacer on the rear as it was a tight fit to put the Outback struts in. I also will be doing the rear trailing arm mounts since the rear tire is not centered in the wheel well. Hard to see but it is at 9"

97 Legacy Sedan. I have a vibration in my steering wheel. I have noticed it is always there but doesn't get real noticable till about 45. I have check tie rods and they are fine. I did get a left/right shake play in the wheel when checking for play. This is why I pulled the tie rod boots back to check them. With the boots pulled back noticed the play was in the rack(Steering wheel locked) which also caused the steering wheel to move left/right(is this normal?). Tracking down the vibration is driving me crazy. I know it is not tires, and no weird wear. I swapped out struts/springs(for lift) from a 99 Outback Wagon and the problem is still there.