oddcomp

measure the ohms across the terminals of the old injectors and the resistance of the dsm units then measure the resistance of the old resistors with the dropping resistor in line compare the 2 and see if you can run them with the resistor block or with out

it was cool in person i wonder what side pipes would look like on my rx hmmm

actually looks like a nissan maxima wagon.. to me

ps low ohms = high amp loads .. high ohms = low amps loads stock suby injectors + stock resistor block = just fine in my setup

my my my .. sounds like someone is doing the covert megasquirt conversion... i could suggest you just run the injectors to the megasquirt and the cut the main lead to the resistor block and wire it to a relay that gets tripped from the + side of the coil wiring since its a switched + .... but then again what would i know..

does your car have some for of tachometer reading for engine rpm? actually now that i think about it ,, the ecu should be getting a tach signal otherwise it would not know its supposed to fire the injector in turn means that if it knows it's supposed to fire the injector but thinks there is a problem it will throw a code.. if that makes any sense as far as the cause to the problem goes.. i would almost bet money that the injector driver inside the ecu has failed "or" the wire between the ecu and injector has failed reason being is the fact the ecu is programmed to monitor things like how much voltage / amperage a item uses to function correctly so if a injector dies and it shorts out the ecu would see it as a injector failure due to the high demand being put on the injector driver and it triggers a error code same thing goes if the injector burns out and no longer provides any resistance at all the ecu would "see" this and determine the injector load is to low and also signal a injector is fubar code what it cannot tell you is if its a fault in.. the wiring the injector or the injector driver mosfet inside the ecu.. any one of those things going wrong will put it into a error code + not run or not run right my best suggestion after you trace down the wiring harness and look for corroded wires/mouse chewed wires is to go find/borrow a spfi ecu from someone and slap it in place and see what happens when the motor is wired up correctly really as far as i know .. what you describe when you say the motor runs with the injector grounded out to the motor.. really baffles me and my current knowledge of fuel injection realisticaly <sp?> grounding out the injector should be the same as flooding a carbureted motor out .. to dam much fuel and not enough air to support combustion so the motor either does nto run or it runs.. not so terrific

its a common ground shared with the rest of the ecu only difference is it runs thru a few fet transistors that act as electrical relays to pulse the injector open and closed in regards to engine load rpm maf reading ect the grounds for the ecu usually run up into the harness and ground out on the motor itself because of all the sensors connected it tends to screw up the sensor readings if the ecu grounds/returns are on the different part of the car than the sensors unless there is a dedicated ground wire run to the sensor and there usually is but it also usually all connects to one point on the motor then you have the main battery to engine ground and a aux ground between the motor and the frame i usually add a few extra grounds just for fun

grounding out the injector to any part other than the ecu would result in large amounts of fuel being dumped in unmetered bad performance way bad mileage and injector failure since they are not intended to stay open like that if what you say is correct... i really am amazed it ran at all it should have just flooded out with the injector staying open cause of the grounding wow ..

ok those are cool and you sir just plain suck for not getting me one as well

so yeah i have a few i have no use for except to potenially pilfer parts from let em know what one you want to tinker with .. why are you going to try and disassemble the ecu code? and look for a way to reprogram it?

um yup i do the 85 rx's old ecu some 2wd non turbo ecu .. i think the ecu for a xt lying around a chevy 4.3 ecu also around here somewhere

problem occurs when the old battery you knew one was good .. has gone dead and also reversed polarity trying to fix the power supply section of the ms box depressing well off to work

so my battery decided not to take a charge on the way to work last night got it jumpstarted drove home on the alternator this morning <yay chevy alternator> got home but a battery in that needed charged accidently left the ignition on connected the charger and then went and plugged the extension cord in came back to the car to hear the injectors fluttering ..great changed batteys for a good charged one tried to start it .. no worky popped the cover on ms mmm roasted circuit board trace smell sure enough 2 traces on the bottom of the board evaporated gonna try and jumper wire bypass the traces.. it works well enough when i fixed otehr peoples botched xbox mod chip installs no other components seem damaged and it was a bad night at work on top of that .

yeah i have the map so its max advance is now around 55 at ten inches of vacum at cruise / 55-60 mph under boost i think i have it to far retarded but .. better safe than sorry for now

well.. umm put it this way.. the generated map... put my max timing advance .. at cruise.. at 70 deg btdc..

of timing makes a hell of a difference .. it can take something that accelerated decently and change it into something that you can do a normal drive off no clutch dump ect let the clutch lock up and then nail it on the floor and once on boost the front tires will break loose.. yay now wtf am i talking about? well i had my timing map . the fist one was way retarded so not only did i lose power but it ran hot my second one i decided to let the laptop "figure out" a timing map for me.. worked decent not running hot anymore but using more gas than it should. 3rd try i took the generated map and retarded all the numbers by 20 degree's .. and wow really good mileage now and the ability to light the tires from first with out a clutch dump .. bad news is its super evident i really do need to find/ build a pitch stopper bracket really soon oh. on the way home this morning i took about an addition 5 degree's funny thing is i never heard any detonation tho.. maybe cause i am still running it pretty dam rich to make sure i don't break stuff

obsesive compulsive?? they do have medication you know

sheesh you guys must clean things with tooth brushes....

would anyone happen to know what the max amount of advance a non turbo mpfi ea82 under full load likes? same qustion but then applied to a turbo but in regards to how much the timing gets retarded ? maybe this info is in a service manual somewhere? something like the official specs for what subaru thinks its motors run baest at for max advance and boosted retard ? trying to build a better ignition map for my rx get alot of stumble down in the non boosted range of timing then it clears up once i get on boost think the timing might be way far to advanced on everything below the boost section of my map

cool now i am not the only one running a hks i have some diesel silicone radiator hose left over from when i installed my intercooler <its the big blue stuff> clicky here i paid about 1 dollar an inch i think but i know it will never blow out

the injector is constantly powered thru a resistor block that limits the amount of amperage the injecter can pull when the ecu grounds out the injector to switch it open and closed otherwise the injector wold pull to much current and burn out he injector driver fet /circuit inside the ecu that being said has anyone tested the resistor block to make sure its not cracked or damaged and providing power? and the injector should be located underneatha small cover located in the bore of the throttle body your wires your looking to test if i remeber right from junkyard visits will be coming off the side of the throttlebody 2 of them one black the other.. not sure the non black wire wire should have voltage with the key on

first off cool deal there.. second if you run water much longer kiss your fuel pump good by since it is partially lubricated by stuff in the gasoline also i would suggest running warm kerosene or diesel fuel to help with keeping the fuel pump and the moving parts in the injectors lubricated maybe call a few places ask them what they run when they do injector testing also 3rdish i might be allergic to this post as i have been non stop sneezing since i started to type grrr 4thish from all the injector data sheets i have looked at all the test pressures seem to be around 40-43 psi wich makes sense since most/alot of cars run about 40-43 or maybe a smidge more psi under full load so i would assume you would want to test the injectors under those conditions

ask and ye shall receive.. or something http://www.oddcomp.com/topshot.jpg.JPG ford thunderbird intercooler the pipes and fittings on it are from lets see.. a maserati bi turbo a dodge turbo mini van and some silly cone diesel radiator hose

no air made it around.. ice was as big as the intercooelr opening but with carbon dioxide vapor being heavier than air the nice and chilly co2 vapor/ water condensation is allowed to go thru the intercooler core i mean.. how effective could minus one o nice f cooling be? btw my number one key is broke also i think we have hijacked this thread accidently ... oops

hmm maybe i will try myx's flowed injector rating on my rx's fuel table and see how well it likes it .. i have mine set for 80 cc a min on my megasquirt setup and it seems to run pretty good for a tired old motor edit: my one key is borked .. so make that one eighty cc's