oddcomp

soo.. what if i ice my intercooelr down and prove you wrong on that?? since i have actualy iced it down and left dry ice on it and drove around town for about 30 min or so of boost and non boost conditions.. with the temp staying right around 60-70 deg f? at 7-8 psi ? actually . i can datalog my frozen ic for you with the laptop

pffftttt when i feel really concerned about it i just grab some handy dandy dry ice from work and place it on my i/c about 10-20 min before i go somewhere .. can we say 60f degree's and below under full boost ?? woot! lowest i let it get <according to the laptop> was about 27f before i started driving it granted the intercooler looked like big chunk of vanila ice cream.. but hey .. it works its not for everyday use.. unless you can get dry ice for free like i can but if you plan on racing or something at the strip then i would just pre chill the ic down

yeah my megasquirt setup is using the 180 cc numbers to base its fueling off of.. but i would like confirmed numbers..

no just fuel vapor... in a enclosed container "shop vac" plus add the electric vacum motor that has nice sparks ... and boom simple.. but effective ghetto fuel/air explosive its a shame some people don't always think things out before they try them

you mean a setup like this with the megasquirt and edis running??? www.oddcomp.com/topshot.jpg.JPG there is a ea82 single turbo hiding under all that .. stuff and goin coil on plug with edis should work fine other people are doing it on other motors just rewire the c.o.p's to fire off the coil pack leads from the edis module i will look into it a bit more to figure out the way to do it yeah yeah i know i screwed up the file name .. oh well lol

now where did i put that compressor.. maybe i left it in my other pants lol guess i better get one or something

so after putting the squirted and dis'd motor in the rx and having put 1400 miles on it since friday the 15th of july 05 i have been chasing down a few problems .. one being it runs dam hot ont he highways but cool in town the other a bad missfire .. and with my ignition i shouldn't have hardly any. as far as the cooling goes i thought maybe old tstat changed that stillt eh same people suggested the radiator is borked. well those cost money so i was toying with some setting on the laptop and figured what the hell i will let the laptop make me a new ignition map and see how it runs compared to my .. cobbled together igniton map.. well seems i kinda screwed up and was running the motor way retarded at cruise conditions overly retarded igniton = overly hot running motor now instead of 200 - 220 f temps on the highway the temp display on the laptop shows 182f and a peak of 190F .. thats much better plus more power yay! now as far as my mystery missfire goes.. seem that when i had the motor in the wagon i was experimenting with huge plug gaps with the edis ignition.. and i forgot about it so i pulled all the plugs yesterday thinking one might have fouled out.. and for the first 3 plugs my gap was .044 normal suby gap if i recall correctly .. also correct gap for the ford edis ignition setup i have 4th plug however was at .055 almost .060 yipes.. i could prolly run it if all the plugs where gapped the same but on a wasted spark system having one plug gapped wrong provs to cause problems the short version.. is even if your certain you think you know whats wrong.. don't overlook the tiny stupid things cause usually they are the tiny stupid things that bite you in the rump roast and make you feel stupid really am amazed i did not burn up my motor with my old ignition map i was running excuse me now while i go and:banghead: then:burnout: :burnout: then:drunk: followed by a nap so i can go back to work tonight

so i was under the franken-rx.. this morning cuting away useless stock exhaust bits.. and i notice.. my rear coil over's have adjustable steps on them.. woot!.. now how the hell do i unload them enough to bump up the spring rate ?

my dear sweet its elementery or however you spell it awd rooster tails in slippery gooey mud it goes all over the place especially if your sitting still in one spot waiting to grab some kind of traction then all that stuff you just kicked up into the air has to land somewhere

look in the 4wd mags there is a company that makes a bolt on coupler that does just that for the bigger lifted chevy's ect with the full time transfercases and way more hp than most of us have so imagine it would not be hard to adapt

just a idea.. go find a wrecked olds bravada awd or even better a dead cyclone or typhoon build a adapter plate for the gm transmission to suby motor and use the drivetrain from the above mentioned vehicles to get your awd plus your weight balance might run you over budget tho depends on your luck in finding the parts and your haggling over prices skills

either fuel related <plugged filter tired fuel pump> or weak coil so once the coil heats up it can't make spark

its tacky but works well i used 2" id flex pipe stuff to join my better than stock downpipe to my other section of exhaust

ok sign me up.. do you take payments?

i had it written down but lost the paper so does anyone know the flow rates for the ea82/ea82t injectors looks like the injectors in my spider intake are the same as my ea82t injectors

well i went out and played with the injection settings.. i think i was dumping to much fuel in on top of the potential radiator problem turned down the injector settings a tad and went and beat on it on the freeway for a bit and it stayed downa round 197-200 so thats at least a improvement pulls a bit harder to yay.. still want it to run cooler

so around town in the rx i run about 182-190 degrees when i get on the highway it gets up to about 200-220 degrees f... or so the laptop shows me and the dash gauge shows its higher than it should be not into the red yet but about 1/4 inch away from it if not less and i can't seem to figure out why thats with a 180 tstat the e fan hardwired to a relay and the mechanical fan also and once i get off the highway 65-70 mph driving it seems to take a loooong time for the cooling system to recover back to where it normally sits at during around town driving so whats the safe zone as far at temp goes before i really have a problem and anyone got any idea's?

battering ram home built heavy as hell front bumper and a partial skid plate under the front end might have to cut vents into the plate to keep the suby from overheating in traffic... after all . that hot air from the radiator need to go somewhere

actually.. it was a 3at.. and at that time i was not intercooled and did not have the spider intake on the motor either but yeah.. same motor 230k mile motor with all that dropped into a 152k mile rx body haha seems to run a tad warm <like 210f> on the freeway with a 180 thermostat but runs cool around town i suspect i need to flush my cooling system

good question .. who knows.. need to scrape up money for a dyno run down in portland

my old shop teacher down here in longview last i knew he had a cryo treating setup i might look into it now

well by next year since i can actually tune for it i hopefully will have a high compession turbo motor i suspect thats why previous attempts at hi comp turbo ea82t's don't live long is the lack for proper fueling/ignition that the stock ecu can not compensate for not that mine lacks low end power hehe but still eh gotta try that diesel radiator hose i bought .. was like 1.something dollar per inch! but it is semi flexible and it works great infact i still have a section of it left thats about 5-8 inch's long and 2.5" diameter fits perfect over suby throttle body's

well.. junky my boy you should have said something.. actually i looked around for you to take you for a ride. but you was always bizzy b.s.ing with someone as far as my filter goes its 20 dollar knock off but it is in fact a cotton fiber cleanable element yay but the metal "mesh" you see if to reinforce the element so it does not collapse and yes stock boost so far was gonna pop my apc back in wire it all up but then .. i realized i would be taking it back out soon to wire up the megasquirt boost circuit so i figured.. eh why do things twice. and besides.. at stock boost it moves well enough yes any one who can afford it can buy a fast car and slap aftermarket parts on it but half the fun not to mention being proud of your car comes from being able to say.. yeah i built those parts ect i did not build it to be fast<ok well sorta> i built it to prove i could mostly to myself still at half an exhaust swap.. got owned by my dead sawzall so i couldnot cut the old muffler off . so bigger dp ending in open exhaust right around the middle of the car ..

so on a 4wd 5speed .. how do you remove that small coupler off the tranny shift rod thats right next to the output shaft on the back of the tranny since there is not enough room to slide that bolt out .. all my shifter bushings are good except the one right on the end of the linkage setup its all worn wayyyy the hell out looks like there is a drift pin in the piece on the tranny but the punch i got seems ot be to small and i can't even hit it at a angle to drive out supposed pin... <--confused

well in the stock setup the disty does 2 things provides spark.. duh lol secondly the tach signal off the - side of the coil runs to the ecu and also triggers the fuel injections pulses each rpm signal causes all 4 injectors to fire in the stock ecu so 1 rpm = 1 injection event and yea i can build it pm me again.. or message me on instant message type thing just put my better downpipe on till i make a even better one