StephenA

This last weekend I tried to start the car. I had left the key with the guy who owns the property its parked on. So.... not the key is gone. sigh. I found an old keyring with the original, very worn key. I'll have my friend try starting it as Its located 300 miles away, so I cant just pop over to work on it. Hopefully he doesn't lose this key. So thank you all for the great advice. I like the idea of leaving the intake attached and dropping in the replacement block. There is a tractor with a bucket on site that will make lifting it out a breeze. Of course, its going to be a month before I can get back there again. I just hope it doesn't snow. I swear to dog, I'm about ready to program up an Arduino to read the codes and output it to OLED display. Cant be that hard. -Stephen

Both engines are manual. So it still needs the intake swapped? Thats easy anyway. The OBD1 vs OBDII hijinx. I can deal with CEL if needed. Great info. Thank you

I have a 90 Legacy going on 340k that's running super rough Can a 95 2.2 engine swap out with the 90 2.2 with no issues as far as the computer is concerned? I'm afraid the 90 won't pull two mountain passes in order to get it home. It's 300 miles away so I can't work on it in my spare time. But I have a spare 95 engine. The car feels like its missing. Maybe a slipped tooth on the timing belt. Ill check that on my next trip over. HG's changed at 300k, but was unable to dress the heads when i did it. If I can't get it to run smooth, the swap is next. I don't have a tow rig. This is my first Subaru. I sold it years ago and bought it back. Now it's my fifth subaru as well. I guess it gets two badges on it. Thanks

Thank the gods I used the search function first. So, 96 Outback. Pulled out the battery. When replaced, the flashers were blinking at half brightnrss. The flasher button was tried and they went to full brightness. Noob switch on top of steering colum was checked. Further invesigation led to what I think was the ECU. Silver box, way under the dash. I could feel and hear the clicking. Came here for answers. Result: key to On but not started. Removed neg battery lead. Checked the chicken on the BBQ.i.e. 30 sec. Reconnect neg lead. All is good. Beer in hand. Cheers mate, you made my night.

I used my phone to video the flashing code. Then I could turn off the ignition and decode it without rushing. Its very helpful to keep as a record for later.

Looks like I have an action plan. Very cool

Good to know. Thank you.

'95 Legacy had a broken exhaust flange by the cat converter. I'm hoping this is replaceable and not welded in. So before I start wrenching, thought I could ask first. Any thoughts? This is my DD and can't have out of service.

It's been interesting time. I finally got the parts car up to my place on Monday. Today I finally got a chance to start swapping the hubs. Now i have another problem... No ABS on the parts car. Is there a way to disable the ABS with no ill effects? I'm just going to continue the swap unless I hear different. Personally ive had to many close calls with my ABS not braking fast enough and would love to disable it on my own car. That's a whole 'nuther story. So far I'm about $380 into this car. Its not to bad for a DD for my friend. Granted, I'd love to have a 2.2 swap kit from SJR for my '87. This is more important. I really hope I can gave it done by the end of September as I'm moving to the Washington coast soon.

I think the center diff is currently residing in the back seat.... I will have to do something with the CV's. Luckily, I don't have far to move them.

The first booster is acting as a pre-amp. In the RF world, that's pretty acceptable. Just remember it will amplify everything, noise included. Usually not a huge problem for modern radios. The signal strength coming from the antenna is low power. So having a bit of a preamp won't hurt the inputs of another amp. I use the same technique for my cell phone booster. I use a 9db antenna fed to the amp. Hope it helps.

The plot thickens. A neighbor who hauls scrap steel knew of a guy with an old sube. I met with him yesterday and wound up buying two part subes for $75. One engine supposedly runs. Doubtful. One has no windows and the body is shot. Literally. Bullet holes in the front and rear doors. But now i'll have complete suspensions from two rigs. I'll strip the all parts i think ill need and move the hulks off my property. Fortunately, i have shop spare for storage. I'll have to build more shelves. But first I have to go put some spare tires on these hulks so the car mover doesn't kill the suspension. I might try flat towing them. I just want this car fixed and delivered to it's new owner. It's like making chicken soup. First, catch the chicken... Thanks for the advice.

Those manuals are great! Thanks for the info