TheEmpireStrikesBack
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Posts posted by TheEmpireStrikesBack
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What is spoob?
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Siiiiiighhhh. Okay, so now I'm having another problem with my Subaru Loyale. When I try to turn the ignition off, the key won't come out. It will turn as far as cutting off, but not to the full off position. I use the method the manual tells me, to reach under the steering wheel and put your finger in the hole where you toggle the little button inside that releases the key, and it does. But I just wanna know WHY this is happening and what to do about it? And is it dangerous to keep driving?
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I would go back to electrical... mainly when you get it started.. check how many volts your alternator is putting out, put multimeter on 20v and increase rpm you should get 13.00 to 14.00 hopefully, that will eliminate possible alternator failure. Please let us know how it goes! Dead end threads sauck!
Well, everything seems to be working out just fine again, except now once the engine finally idles down, you can feel the car vibrate some. Any idea what that could be?
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No but the engine should be off. Just pop off the hose, plop in a small bit of cleaner like Berryman's , pop hose backnon. Wait 5 min and start. It may be hesitant to start I immediately. Once going, iac should hold at idle. Additional treatment may be needed.
Okay, so I tried starting car again the other day and it idled just fine, started high at first like normal and then worked itself down like normal, but after a few minutes I heard that squeaking try to start up again and then the engine almost gave out for a split second. What could that be?
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A 92 doesn't have a carb. The iac has a hose connected that you pull off, pour the cleaner in, nothing to disassemble.
Okay, great!!! I don't have to unhook the battery or anything?
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Had a similar issue with my Loyale. Put a cap full of Berryman's in the iac and let it sit 5 min. Just pop off the hose and pop it back on. I consider this a semi annual maintenance task.
Could I just put it in the carburator instead? It looks pretty scary trying to take that iac off.
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if youve never had a car this old, you have to "keep them running" when extremely cold if you don't have yours well maintained.
if you ask me, you probably have a vacuum leak.
But I checked my hoses and didn't see anything. But that doesn't necessarily mean anything?
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Okay, everybody, so I'm having another problem with my '92 Loyale. It was running fine with the new battery and I got the shim for the loose terminal and that was the fix. But now it struggled to start a couple nights ago, and it's been really, really cold out in my area. It gave a good crank and tried to start but died. I tried again and the same thing happened. Tried once more and that time I pumped the gas while I cranked engine and it got started then, but the vehicle vibrated a little and the idle did not start out high but very low. Also there's been a squealing noise too, like maybe a belt on one of the pulleys? Once the engine warms up the squeal usually stops. After that I was able to start the car fine each time but there's this problem of it idling really low.
Any answers, guys? Could it be the arctic weather that caused the problem? Too much cold weather affecting the engine and components? And what can I do about it? I don't think the timing slipped because I got that fixed already last year, brand new timing belt and new plugs and distributor. I saw one of Scotty Kilmer's vids about using an idle throttle cleaner that could solve the problem, but what does my situation seem like to you guys?
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battery cable connection somewhere
Yeah, I think that's what it is. I saw that one of the clamps on the battery terminal is a TAD bit loose, so I'll try putting a shim on it and see what happens.
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Check for loose connection s in the charging system. Loyale alternators. Every one I have had runs about 150,000 miles and then one of the brushed has worn out, causing diminished output. No dashboard indication of the failure. Eventually the battery is discharged to the point it won't crank the engine.
My alternator is about 3 years old and I have run the car quite a lot in that time, do you think an alternator should go that soon?
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battery cable connection somewhere
What do I look for when checking that out? I hear people all the time talking about a loose or bad battery connection, but where do I look for it? I've tightened the terminals as much as possible.
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So I got a new battery after I had my old one tested at Auto Zone and they said it was bad. New battery is good and worked fine, but after three days I went to start it and I got nothing that time. It can't be the starter cuz that is new too, I had it put in some months back and didn't even run the car that much, plus I had my brother tap it while I tried to start car and still nothing. Anybody got any idea? Could it be the alternator?
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Alright, so after 7 months I have finally got my car running again. I asked a friend of my mom's to give it one more jump the day after Thanksgiving, and this time I let the car run for almost 2 hours to get the battery charged up. So it's not an alternator or battery problem like some here were saying, but now the only problem is that every time I go to turn the key, there is a delay for some seconds before the car actually starts/cranks. Anybody have any idea what that could be? Starter relay? Ignition switch? The starter itself? The starter is new and was put in back in April but may not necessarily mean it's good. Anybody have any idea?
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Alright, so I have finally got my car running again. I asked a friend of my mom's to give it one more jump the day after Thanksgiving, and this time I let the car run for almost 2 hours to get the battery charged up. So it's not an alternator or battery problem, but now the only problem is that every time I go to turn the key, there is a delay for some seconds before the car actually starts/cranks. Anybody have any idea what that could be? Starter relay? Ignition switch? The starter itself? The starter is new and was put in back in April but may not necessarily mean it's good. Anybody have any idea?
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You have been asked about engine cranking already. Sorry guys im simply repeating what you all have posted.
When the car doesnt start does it crank slowly or at all? Cranking performance has nothing to do with the ecm. You need access to a volt meter or at least have a way to get the car to a parts store that has free bat and alt testing.
It will crank regularly at first, but the more you keep trying the slower it will crank, and then eventually you will get absolutely nothing at all, yeah. Until you ask somebody else to give you a jump. Are volt meters expensive? And can I use one on alternator too?
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Decent battery properly maintained should go 5 years. I've had some go longer. A battery left partially or fully discharged is not being maintained properly, and this will shorten the life. Any deep discharge to a starting battery (typical car battery) does damage.
The car starting after putting in the recharged battery, and then not, does point to the alternator not working. Also, a good fully charged battery should be able to run the car and restart after a few drives even if the alternator is dead. Which of course, is not good for the battery. ..
So you don't think it could be a bad ECU?
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When your car isn't starting, is it cranking over quite well?
You say that the battery seems a bit iffy, but how is the condition of the alternator? Because if you've got a flat battery, it could be that is not getting charged.
I think the alternator is still in good shape, only a little less than 3 years old. Though my battery is about as old as it would be and around expiring.
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"Every time I get a jump to the battery the car will start up just fine,
but then cut it off and try to start it again and it won't run"
This is a pretty good indicator that the battery is not up to snuff. Check all the connectors that they are good and clean, charge up the battery and then have it tested. Eliminate that variable then you can go on to eliminate others.
Also, if your check engine light came on, get the codes for the cause.
That's just it, the CE light doesn't come on anymore with the new ignition module in, and the meter hands stopped flipping and everything. And the battery is about 3 years old and my friend said I'd need a new one soon. He took mine back to his place and charged it over night, brought it back next morning and started car and it worked for awhile, but wouldn't start up again after we cut it off.
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Hi,
For months I've had trouble trying to get my '92 Subaru Loyale started. It shut off back in February, couldn't start it again for days. A mechanic said the timing had slipped, he fixed everything, put in new distributor, timing belts, a few new hoses, new coil. But it still gave him trouble starting up. He could fire it once and it ran good, but cut it off and try to start it again and it wouldn't work. Next he did some kind of coil bypass and said the problem is that the power transistor/ignition module was getting hot and needed to be replaced, which explained why he said I wouldn't be able to start the car again until about 5 to 10 minutes after it ran because the transistor/module was too hot. He also said my starter was going and that I should work on getting that replaced. He didn't want to go any further and pay for that or the ignition module, so left it to me. So the car did run great like he said, but I still had the problem of having to wait 5 to 10 minutes to start it again each time. Then one night my car made a weird sound under the hood on the road and it slowly started coming to a stop, check engine light was on. Wouldn't crank even after I gave it time to cool. Then after about an hour it started up and I got back on the road but it died down again. Had to get it towed back to my area. After that I got the new starter put in and it started up fine but again the engine died after some minutes. Then recently I finally got that new ignition module put in and also came with a genuine Subaru coil. It started up after a friend of mine who works on cars charged the battery, and it ran great. We let it run for about 10 minutes to get the kinks all out after months of not running. Then we cut it off and tried to crank it again and it wouldn't start.
I chalked the problem up to be that the mechanic who fixed my car the first time messed something up with the coil, doing some kind of bypass, but now I'm puzzled as to what could really be going on. Every time I get a jump to the battery the car will start up just fine, but then cut it off and try to start it again and it won't run. Really weird. Me and my friend also noticed that when he kind of touched the wires to the ignition module connector while I tried to crank engine that it roared to life, yet it will also start up when you charge the battery. I really don't get what's going on. Not sure if the issue is that I need a new ignition module connector, or a new battery.
Can anybody help me?
Can't get key out when I turn off ignition
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Okay, so it turned out to be a false alarm. It was because the gear shift wasn't full pushed into 'Park.' Stupid me! *smacks forehead*