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About NotLurking

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  • Location
    Orange County, CA
  • Vehicles
    90 Vangon 93 Legacy donor

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  1. Thanks! It actually runs OK for about 20 seconds before trying to die at stop lights. Yes, have done so, all new and all tight with clamps. (had post MAF leak issue when it was first built, and it is similar except for now it is running OK at first before gaining a bit of heat). This is a vanagon conversion, so the subie AT issues do not apply. Best, N.L.
  2. Thanks, Yes, it is running rich. The coolant temp sensor is on the left side on the back of the coolant manifold- correct? Gauge sensor is to the right of it also on the coolant manifold?
  3. Bennie, Thanks, your thoughts are interesting, but all injectors are new Subaru, as is the Air control valve. (2000 good miles out of all parts). Everything was working. no adjustments have been made. The Coolant sensor may also cause a rich condition, as the ECU always thinks the coolant is cold. This would affect all 4 cylinders equally. Yes am going to have to learn how to read codes. Do not have a functioning CEL on the dash, so need to dig into the ecu stuff under the back seat and figure that out. Have found the code reading tutorial so, that's a start. Thanks, N.L.
  4. Determined today that the MAF is NOT the problem on the subievan. So here we go... diagnosis time. The motor is new, as are most peripherals. I had suspected the MAF because it and the throttle position switch are the only old parts. The engine starts when cold, but once it has run briefly it will start hunting at idle and will die if not kept above 1600RPM with the pedal. It runs decently if moving, but stopping for signals will put in into death spiral with hunting getting bad after about 20 seconds sitting. Two locals think its either throttle position switch or coolant temp sensor. All hoses new and tight. Air control valve was new subaru installed less than 2000 miles ago. Your insights would be greatly appreciated!
  5. G.D. I took your first suggestion and ordered a new MAF from Subaru dealer. Fortunately scored a 20% discount. Thanks for weighing in! N.L.
  6. G.D. is there a post providing detailed information about what you suggest? What is the ballpark cost all inclusive? P&L Thanks! N.L.
  7. Guise, Thanks for your insights and offer. Matt, I'm using the paper element from Kennedy, and yeah, agree that K&N would be a poor usage, adjacent to the MAF. Used K&N with a pair of Webers on my D.D. for many years, but that's a totally different (caveman) approach.... 3Pin, What's your price for a good used part? It would help to confirm my diagnosis and be a good spare even if I do decide to buy a new one later. General Dis, Yeah, that's my tendency. Get 'em while they're available. They are spendy, but wondering Is Hitachi Japan a workable MAP, or also crap? It's also nice to know there are other workable options should push come to shove. Thanks Again! NL
  8. Apologies if this is already somewhere... couldn't find any info. Having MAF symptoms on my subievan (and it's one of the few parts that were not replaced w new during swap). Been trying to navigate the bewildering options out there in the retail world, and anticipate that anything for $20 is a bad idea. Ha-Ha "lifetime" warranty right. you spend a lifetime trying to get a replacement when it fails? Are reman units any good? if so, whose? There are many New from the $79.00- $400 range. Delphi, Cardone, Hitachi, etc. I know pick a part is a favorite source for users, but the failed part was essentially from a junker, and it lasted 6000 miles. I want a part that will last and work optimally. Are there any suggestions, comments, warnings to consider in this purchase?
  9. OK, rather than leave another dead-end thread, here is what solved the problem... Having been through the intake leak maze when the engine was first installed, all the intake stuff was double checked and found to still be tight and free of leaks. Based upon the ease of changing the part, and direct relationship to A/F ratio, I swapped in a new Denso O2 sensor. (BTW, this what the smog guy suspected was the problem) The HC and CO rose a bit as anticipated, and the NOx dropped to almost zero. The engine passed rigorous CA smog with flying colors. Apparently the first Denso O2 sensor was defective, as it only had 1000 miles on it, and was not worn or abused. The biggest hurdle was that everyone assumed the problem couldn't be with the O2 sensor because it was new. My buddy ( a 40 year veteran mechanic) says that: "the quality of auto parts in general has declined in the last several years, and failures like this are becoming more common." (even from previously well-respected brands) This is not good news for those of us who maintain our own vehicles, as it adds time and uncertainty to our efforts. On the bright side...The new EJ22 engine is now running even better than ever! A hearty Thanks! to those members who generously shared their knowledge and analysis!
  10. Thanks, Tex! That makes sense, but what factors will play into the lean condition? (is there anything besides the obvious intake leaks?) bad O2 sensor? Although every hose was clamped, checked and double checked, (after the engine compartment photo was taken) there is the plastic intake part that clamps to the remains of the subie intake duct... Only God knows why the MAF is located so far from the throttle body (increasing the potential for leakage) I'm going to have to find something that sticks to polypropylene and seal that joint better... Has anybody had any luck gluing/sealing polypropylene? Product suggestions? Back in the day, working with weber carbs, we used to spray some ether around the intake manifolds while idling and see if it idles up a bit. does this work with the subie, or does the computer compensate? Eric
  11. Hi, I have a fresh ej22 with about 1000 miles on it now. It is outfitted with 1994 Legacy externals. (all reused Legacy parts: wiring harness, ECU, throttle body, MAF are from a single complete donor car) It is installed in a 1990 vanagon and it runs great. No complaints. Much is new: CA-certified Cat, Denso O2, OEM fuel injectors, idle control valve, plugs NGK irridium, plug wires, etc. all sensors new OEM, all hoses belts, and pulleys new OEM. The only hitch: I took it in for CA smog today and the HC and CO were super clean, but the NOx was barely OK on the 15 MPH test, but was about 30% above limit on the 25MPH test... FAIL The van is automatic and the engine speed is close to 2000 RPM on both tests, but at 25 MPH it is in top gear. The smog guy suspects the O2 sensor. My mechanic suspects that the throttle position is set improperly. Any insights would be most appreciated. Thanks, Eric
  12. Wow, that's big difference... Out here in CA I think its closer to maybe 20-30¢ difference, but then all of our gas is often a buck more than the rest of the country. No, no excuse at all, I agree... They just never did the development work... The wasserboxer was simply a rehash of everything that preceded it. But with water. Hello! Distributors, caps, rotors, etc? Prehistoric failure prone parts. I am a longtime VW owner, (from the days when every car had those mechanical ignitions) but for a 1990 model it is inexcusable to not have electronic ignition and knock sensing. Hello, how about a MAF??? nope, instead, a crappy "airbox" with a flap hooked to a non-replacable rheostat that wears out in the idle position. On the other hand, while the VW Vanagon ECU is notorious for going bad, I was surprised when I took my legacy apart to get the harness and ECU loose. Subaru was so confident in their ECU that they buried it under the dash in a place that requires dismantling the car to get it out! Happy to be moving up to a Subaru H-4 and making a good Vanagon great. Thanks, everyone for your kind assistance!
  13. CCRINC, thanks for the compression and fuel requirement info... Saving a little bit per gallon using mid-grade sounds good to me!