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About fatboy_dan

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  • Birthday 09/21/1977

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Nespelem, WA
  • Occupation
  • Referral
    Google, Subaru mods
  • Biography
    Not a spammer, but up until a few months ago I ate spam. Does that count?
  • Vehicles
    1991 EA82 sedan, 2000 EJ25 Outback Limited

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  1. Yes, it's a 4.11, definitely hydraulic push clutch . working on a comprehensive direct swap type list as I type this, from model year, specific model, etc. I was thinking that I could take the rear diff with the transmission to make sure, but that difference in clutch setups bugs me. I was in fact checking both pull and save yards current inventory this morning. I think as of this morning there were 17+ between both yards of similar models and year range. As a footnote about that impreza, the list I have (found elsewhere here in the USMB) says it's also a hydraulic push type clutch actuation. trying to find out now if the rear diff is compatible to swap into the outback, and if so I'd just get them both to guarantee ratio compatibility... and thanks for that #, I'll definitely call them ** Edit- the impreza I found locally IS cable op, and the rear end is shot (hence the fellow parting it out). Joy.
  2. next and possibly dumb question - would the MT from a 97 impreza outback (sport I guess?) be compatible ratio? I have one local I can grab for 50 bucks 'guaranteed to be good', and it's tempting to try - because otherwise I have to pack the gas hog up with kids and pregnant wife and head either to Spokane or the coast and go junkyard hunting... and the cheapest "maybe fit" trans I've found was 100+core...
  3. Well fellas, that's what I was thinking myself. I know on the old EA rigs it could be done either way. Being my newest subaru I'm trying to apply old school tricks wherever applicable. Given that both of you have stated a lift or engine pull may be needed depending on equipment, looks as if I'll be pulling the engine. Thanks!
  4. I may have a 2 barrel carb, I'd have to look at my remaining EA parts. Not sure about the manifold, but I can look for that too. No guarantees though - if I recall correctly the 2 barrel had choke sticking issues and I swapped to a weber before selling the EA it came off of. I'll let you know if you're interested.
  5. fatboy_dan

    2000 Outback Limited

    Just picked this up about a week ago. Very little rust, though that's not too surprising in this area. Bought new in Utah by the original owner, and I picked it up in trade. Runs amazing for a high mileage car. No knocks, no shakes, no smoke, no leaks! Interior has a couple rough spots, rip along the seam in the drivers seat, and a cut in the headliner adjacent to the sunroof motor. Sunroof switch didn't work so I assume it's for direct access to the wiring to make it work. Currently undergoing an entertainment system upgrade, adding navigation, cellular and internet access onboard with touchscreen in the dash. Planned upgrades include lift, some power mods while remaining NA, and a few lighting and cargo capacity upgrades for off road adventures.
  6. Haven't been active in quite a while, for I've been out of the Subaru game (almost for good). Traded an old clapped out 93 ranger for a 2000 Outback Limited with the 5 speed and already running into problems. I was aware upon the trade that these problems may surface though. Here's the deal. VERY high miles - 353xxx. Engine runs perfectly, throws no codes, etc. Transmission has no 4th gear, originally figured shift bushings being an issue like it would have been on the older models. Went to back up the other day, foot slipped off the clutch and "BANG", transmission popped loudly and shook the entire car in doing so. Now it sounds as if something is grinding in there, while in motion in any of the remaining gears at any speed or engine load. Pulled the dipstick and definitely some tiny metal flakes and sheen to the oil. So it's pretty obvious that it'll need to be pulled, either to repair or replace. My question is - does the engine have to be removed in order to drop the transmission, or is it much like the older EA chassis where it can be pulled without yanking everything? Another question, is the 6 speed a bolt in option in these? Apologies if this has all been covered before, would appreciate a point in the right direction if so. Thanks!
  7. I have seen tons of posts around here regarding swapping parts of one into another, spfi to an EA81 rig, etc etc... but I'm faced with a unique situation at least to me my mother's 1991 EA82 w/AT3 trans ate another set of head gaskets. Possibly cracked head, not sure yet. Not interested in repairs, just thinking of donating my EA81 engine to that car until I can find an EJ22/25. Anyway... I have a few questions I couldn't quite find answers to. 1- being that the EA82 is already SPFI, can these parts be swapped onto the EA81 block when installed, saving hacking anything up? 2- EA81 is a 4 speed car, and the EA82 being the 3 speed automatic... could I swap the flex plate and torque converter to the EA81 without troubles? 3 - is there anything other than the basic procedures I need to watch for or take care of?
  8. Old posts, I know... but I know this car, and I had one of the builder's others much like it... it unlike this one was street legal... sort of... but the police sure liked it.... :/
  9. fatboy_dan

    Pre '85 parts

    rock auto is your friend... I've found a ton of things like that by cross referencing parts from ebay resellers/remans to rock auto and vice versa. if nothing else, go to a mom and pop hardware store, or even better an implement repair shop and get hose from them for a tractor or other such machine. I'm all about OEM myself, but sometimes alternatives such as those are superior... and still cheaper.
  10. Greetings and salutations... or hi, hello... ah, whatever... I have been using the forum for some time as a reference for intended mods, repairs, etc... lurking if you want to be a jerk about it lol... and after buying what is now my 5th ea81 GL... I figured it's time I joined the ranks...