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Casull

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Everything posted by Casull

  1. Owner claimed it was a five. He may not know what he's saying then. I'll ask for pix.
  2. Governor swapped. Works, but I didn't tighten it enough and lost fluid! So that test is over, gonna drain transmission, change filter, all that. See how it fares! However, I also found a good parts car. I think. It's an '85 DL while mine is an '88. It also has a FIVE speed auto trans. Should there be an issue if I swap my 3-speed out for that one?
  3. I ordered the Governor Gear. Although I feel tempted to learn all about pulling my transmission apart if it may be on its way to a junkyard if all this fails. Could I theoretically replace that helix if I had time and patience?
  4. Governor Gear (metal) Apple cored. Internal Helix ware?
  5. The Governor is apple cored. It is a metal version. The Helix you speak of has slightly ground away. I will post images as soon as my internet behaves.
  6. Thank you! I will be pulling it tomorrow (22nd). How much are you selling them for?
  7. I have a front wheel drive 3-speed Automatic 1988 Subaru DL Recently I had the ol' "doesn't shift in drive!" issue that is notorious in this transmission in particular. (My story goes like this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158122-3at-problems-in-86-leone-turbo/) I replaced the Oil Modulator on the transmission.... no difference. So now it's time to check linkage and the Governor. But first I have some questions. Does that linkage bar look alright? I am unsure where it should or shouldn't be bent.My shifter goes into park but needs a very hard push to actually CLICK the lever into the park detent. I also want to know if the second image is indeed the governor cap with the three bolts. If so, do I need to drain my ATF before I remove it?
  8. 3-speed Transmission in there? If so, is it any good? Also interested in front left fender if it could be adventitious with the cost of fright shipping.
  9. The 91 octane for sure is better. After having a 100% 91 filled tank now I can tell the difference in pickup and sound on the highway. HOWEVER, with my particular problem in the "rough acceleration" department I am noting that my car behaves as it should after getting my engine idle for a period of time. This may be different than your problem. See, it starts at a somewhat low, rough idle but eventually kicks into a very smooth idle (5+ minuets). Pickup is peppy thereafter, and the car is happy-- like, really, it's nice. But who wants to sit for so long waiting for a car to behave? I'll be having someone look at that in a couple weeks because my transmission main seal went out. That said, what if the problem is purely physical? I'd make sure those fluids are correct. I know, that's pretty basic to say. But my car sure did raise a brow when my ATF spewed. (Duh, dude, duh. I know. I know)
  10. The problem is that I did fill up the ATF. It was near empty before-- previous owner apparently had the fluids redone (whatever), but then I found that was low. I figured I'd fill it up and wait to see if someone "forgot". For a good while it was good to go so I figured it must be fine. I'll run some tests tonight; get it warm. See what I can figure. The diff is half-full. What diff oil do I put in, though?
  11. I also have a similar issue in my '88 DL (AE81?). Seems that it has less of an issue now that I run 91 octane, but it still seems iffy. In fact, starting the car can be a weird process as well. I am yet to find the problem out.
  12. It's an Automatic. So yes, that's the diff. Thanks for letting me know. I put cardboard. Nothing more than the typical few drips below the oil tank. Oddly enough my transmission fluid is pretty low. But the oil in that photo was definitely not transmission fluid-- wasn't pink at all. The thing is I don't have transmission fluid on the cardboard. Would I be correct in assuming I only lose fluid while driving so I never see it otherwise? Mayhap I could use some AT-205...
  13. Update: Smells like ... different oil. Being I am new to this car I will say it isn't the transmission fluid, but there is a dip stick next to that. Gear oil or differential oil??? The oil on the ground smells like that one. Anyone??
  14. I drove to work. Everything was fine. Then I'm told there's oil under my car. I checked the dip stick and I only have a bit less than full. That said, my car has a drip or few every couple days. It isn't dripping oil in this huge spot anymore. Does anyone think this released from the oil pressure relief valve or do I probably have a bigger problem? I will update the post as I find out more. I have to get my car to level ground at the end of the day and check other fluids. (The second small puddle in the back is AC condensation. Water.)
  15. My 1988 DL. Apparent and horrid use of Gaussian. But I ain't even mad.
  16. I have updated the thread. The problem seems to be solved by allowing the fuel pump to work a little. Read more in Update 2 of the main post.
  17. That's awesome. That is awesome. Makes me want to get all custom on my '88 DL. Jeez.
  18. Thank you. So far so good today. I also have an interesting dilemma. My AC/HEAT controls are mostly unmarked. Anyone have a photo of any that are in tact? I have a feeling mine has no "off" button like I've seen... I will update the main part of the thread as I discover more about what is going on. Largely good to go through today after keeping it going and all.
  19. Howdy, My Subaru won't start all of a sudden. I am new to this car, so bear with me. I will explain what I have observed. Upon turning the key to a point the lights turn on the fuel pump in the rear makes a "Rrrrrrr... Rrrrrrr" Sound with about a one-and-a-half second pause between sounds. This happened before but the car would start and then there would be a constant "rrrrr" sound. There was a situation not so long ago where I cranked for a while longer than I'd like to, and it did start. The fuel pump and fuel filter look brand new. But my first assumption to this point is that I must have been too low on gas and they got gummed up. However, I must consider than the sound is normal. Again, I'm a newb. Did a firing test. Definitely firing. Suggestions, ideas, knowledge? Update 1: After letting the starter attempt to do it's job for about five or six seconds the car did start and does start every time after. However, I do not know if that means the problem is somehow solved. The idle itself on the first rough-start was fine, but became more adequate all of a sudden with a higher RPM. I will be doing a cold start soon to see if I experience the same difficulty. Update 2: I let the fuel pump oscillate two to three times before attempting a start. After actually running or being on a trip it starts right away. The short (if there truly was one) is also gone. I have not experienced difficulty to start anymore. I assume it was dirty fuel causing inadequate pressure. But really, I don't know.
  20. Thanks guys! Doing things myself definitely is something I enjoy. This car has very little wrong with it collectively. In fact, only two things are wrong. AC has either a bad fuze or won't hang onto freon (need to take it in to find out), and there is a short somewhere that isn't constant (some times active, some times not). Doing some tests myself today to find where that is. Hopefully it isn't somewhere horrifying. Looking forward to learning a lot here and seeing what other people have! I definitely love the DL Sedan style. Especially this one in particular.
  21. Hello, everyone I am me. I just got a hold of a 1988 Subaru DL Sedan. Has a little over 100,000 miles (relatively speaking). I wanted a subaru; I just really like subarus. I'm happy to be here! For the moment I am looking for a good mechanic in Arizona who is good with these older subies. If anyone knows of any I'm all ears. Thank You!
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