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mattsoft1

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  • Location
    Ogden, UT
  • Vehicles
    Gl10, 1st gen impreza

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  1. mattsoft1
    Thanks again, grossgary: yes, the dealer disassembled the trans, and offered to replace it for $4,000! So I went to the auto-recycling center and found a 2nd gen outback (idk what year) with a 4eat and only 146,000 miles on it. I got the drivetrain, exhaust, and wiring off before it started to snow (yay first snowfall in Utah! - now i really need my awd working). The only thing I worry about is I have no idea why the car ended up in the yard: I'm hoping it was the engine because there's oil all over the engine bay, but someone already took the engine so idk. I can always return the trans. What's the best way to lift the transmission back into the outback from the bottom? I'm guessing patience and a service jack to get it in the right place? Matt
  2. mattsoft1
    Thanks guys! Sorry about the late reply. So I took the car to the dealership to figure out what's wrong with it. And... the transmission is pretty much screwed. The drive gear for the rear transfer clutch has sheared off causing no power going to the rear wheels. So pretty much I need a new transmission. I've done a bit of new research and want to try to replace the transmission myself. The worst that could happen is I can't get it back together and have to part out the car. Meh, I got it for free anyway. So as far as I know any other 4eat from a 2nd gen legacy should (theoretically) bolt right up without a problem. Have you guys ever done a swap before? Will my ECU plug straight into the new transmission without any issues? I've heard that subaru ecu's can be picky. What sort of tools will i need, especially with moving the transmission around? What can I look for in a used transmission to tell if it's working properly? My current plan is to get some of my friends this weekend, grab a trans from the auto-recycling center for $80 and go at it. Any advice? Thanks, Matt.
  3. mattsoft1
    Hey guys, So my new (to me) 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback with the 4EAT on startup blinks the AT OIL TEMP error code 16 times. I'm 95% sure it's a problem with the Duty C Solonoid. I both lifted the car off the ground and went offroading (before I knew of the problem) and the rear wheels and drivetrain never turn, which also makes me believe this is a problem with the Dudy C Solonoid. However, before I start looking into replacing the Dudt C, I want to see if anything else could be causing this problem. Where is the wiring for the transmission or more specifically the Duty C solodnoid? I'm thinking it could just be broken somewhere. I've looked online and from page to page of my repair manual but i cant find anything about transmission wiring. Thanks guys, Matt
  4. mattsoft1
    Thanks again guys! Ok, so if I pull the engine, what should I replace and how much should that cost or all the parts? (so far i understand I should do the clutch, timing belts, water pump, hoses, and head gaskets) Would a radiator upgrade be a smart idea?
  5. mattsoft1
    Thanks for the responses guys! So I got to drive the car, and everything seems to run really well (started first try, ran cool, though I only drove it for about 10 minutes). I've never driven a turbo car (or a fast car for that matter), and it was pretty fun. The car has been sitting for about 6 months, and there wasn't any leaks or oil on the cement, so that's hopeful. I kinda want to try to tackle the engine lift and replace the clutch, belts, whatever else. Since I already use my dad's car as a daily, I'm in no rush to get it working. I'd rather pull it once and replace everything that I should and be done with it (for a long while, hopefully). How much would it cost to replace the head gaskets, and how challenging would that be? Unfortunately, I've already started school, so it would probably be a multiple weekend project, but I have a bunch of friends and my dad who would be willing to help me too. I'm really liking the car, so my plan is if I can talk the price down to under $700, I'll take it.
  6. mattsoft1
    Hey guys, So I found a 1987 Gl10 Turbo Wagon for $1000 (he says that the price is negotiable though) in pretty good shape for being 28 years old. For a first car I'm looking for something that I can daily drive to school (engineering student) and handle Utah winters, and I'm really digging this car so far, but I want to make sure it's the right choice. here's the ad: http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/2383534?ad_cid=18 The good: +138,000 original miles +5 speed manual +paint and body are MINT (some rust and small dent in front, but that's it) +power everything still works, except the auto lock doors (even the power sunroof!) +interior is decent to good (no ripping) +Heat/AC works perfectly The bad: -clutch needs to be replaced (slips in 4th and 5th, but still drivable). -needs new tires -Turbo? I hear turbo ea82s have reliability problems? Anyone know what I should expect? (though turbo's are fun!) So yeah. Should I go for it? I'm really digging this car, and I have no problem getting dirty and working on the thing, but as a student, I have a limited amount of free time (and money!). I hear it's not too hard to lift the engine and replace the clutch, which would be much cheaper, but I have little experience working on cars, though I know my way around tools. What's your guys' experiences with GLs? Thanks, Matt
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