deuce

Okay, I did some removal and cleaning, and replaced the purge solenoid. I can now get it started, but there seems to be a very slight delay from when I turn the key to start, and it actually starting. Ignition switch? And if so would it be the whole tumbler unit or just the switch itself?

Getting away from the starting problem for a second. The original problem was the purge control solenoid. Parts stores don't have it and the dealer wants $158. I thought about going to the local junkyard and pulling a few. Is there a way to test them? Second, am I taking a chance at getting a spare ECM from a junkyard?

The clicking is at regular intervals about a second or slightly less apart. It is present while in the start position with the key and the on position. No diagnostic wires are connected. The clicking sounds and feels like it comes from the ECM (if I put my hand on it). It also sounds as if it is going through all sensors, solenoids, relays and checking them. Is there a way to check the ECM?

I checked the fusible links next to the resevoir. Nothing was messed with except swapping v-belts. It was after I pulled the codes that the clicking noise became apparent and the starting problem began. Is the ECM acting up? And, why the crank angle codes?

I actually did that, but it's not that kind of clicking. It is a slower click coming from what seems like the ecm. Like I said, it started fine before all of this.

Okay, 89 GL wagon spfi. I had the check engine light coming on this week, so I checked the code, and it flashed 35 (purge control solenoid or cicuit). Okay fine, I button things back up and put two new acc. belts on while I was working on things. I have not done anything about the purge solenoid at this point. I went to start the car, and NOTHING. It just makes a slight clicking sound from what seems to be the ECM. I check codes again, and I am getting a 11 and a 13. Both are Crank Angle Sensor codes. I have a distributor. What's wrong? It started fine before all of this.

No ballast, just connect + and - and away you go?

I planned to take care of the front cat this weekend. The back cat was pretty easy, the front cat could prove to be a bit more of a challenge. I'd like to remove the guts to see if it is indeed the problem.

For a little update...I replaced the pcv valve last weekend, and no improvement. I would almost say it is worse. Top speed struggles to get to 55-60. No uphill power at all. The speed drops like a rock. Next on my list of to check/do is to test and/or replace the coil ( how can you actually test a coil?), work on the front cat, and check the lifters. Now that temps warrant, the windows are down and I hear a little noise at part throttle, but not at full throttle (not that it makes a difference in speed). Any other ideas. Acceleration is horrible as well, not just top speed.

Any modifications or anything special you needed to do to install an aftermarket coil? Any real noticable improvements? Thanks.

Improved the rear cat. Is the front cat the y pipe junction? How would the pcv affect performance and mileage? With the rear cat "improved" I don't really notice a difference.

Explain the "rushing air" a little more. Is it quite noticable? Where should the sound coming from under the car (at the cat?)? My biggest problem is getting up to speed, and hills. Anything that really loads the engine. I have contemplated doing something about the cat to see if it helps. I'm running out of ideas. As for the vacuum leak idea, I've checked and have found no leaks. Unless something manifests while driving/accelerating that was not noticable while under the hood.

A little update. It has been a few weeks since the check engine light came on and I replaced the o2 sensor. My mileage improved very slightly, from 18-19 to 20-21. Not much since it was 29 when I bought it a year ago. Power is still down, but my top speed is between 65 and 70 depending on conditions. Beside the aformentioned issues, it does not do me much good to floor the gas pedal. It seems to do slightly better backing off a bit. If I try and gas it hard, it will rev okay, but just does not seem to move very fast. I thought I read something in another post about the distributor not advancing properly (sticking). Possibility? Lifter/valve? The o2 sensor fixed the engine light, but no major improvement in performance or mileage.

Okay, this car is our daily beater, I mean commuter. SO the only real time to work on it is on weekends. Anyway, today after driving a few miles, the check engine light came on for 25 or so miles, then went out. Can I retrieve the code if the light went out? What harness or harnesses get connected by the firewall? How can I get the code? This may help figure out the real problem. I plan on replacing the o2 sensor this weekend, but if I can retrieve the code, that may help diagnose the problem. BUT, like I said the check engine light went out after around 25 miles. The Chilton manual (came with the car) is pretty much garbage. I've never been a real fan of them for any vehicle.

Sorry, mistyped, should be 20deg on timing not 18.