George Griggs

Ok, so I picked up the correct distributor cap, and rotor (Thanks Naru). While I was at it I also purchased a new set of plug wires. Installed them all, and to my dismay still no spark! Again I checked voltages, all was well. Left off the distributor cap and watched to make sure the rotor was turning (it was), and just to make sure I cleaned and polished the distributor plate and the brass standoffs below the new and third ignition module. I also held a small screwdriver to the magnetic pickup that mounts below the rotor. While I could feel a slight attraction to the screwdriver blade it was quite weak. In fact unless I touched the blade to the magnetic and pulled it back there basically wasn't an attraction. Does anyone know how strong the pickup should be? Are they available? I also checked the fuse labeled "ECM", it too was good. Anybody have any more ideas of what to look for? I'm rapidly becoming stumped!

Thanks, Guys, I'll pick up a set of plug wires and give it a try.

My 82 Brat won't start. It isn't getting a spark to the plugs. I tested the ignition module and it has power to it, so I replaced the module. At the same time I ordered a new distributor cap and rotor. The new distributor cap and rotor wouldn't fit, so i used the old ones after scraping the corrosion off the contact surfaces. The car started right up. I killed it, came back 30 min later and drove it 17 miles to town. Got gas, and started back to my house. Made a stop on the way for about 15 minutes and tried to start the car. It wouldn't start. Checked again and no spark. Checked the ignition module and it was getting power. Figured the ignition module had gone out again since I just bought a cheap one on ebay. Called my local parts house and ordered a Denso ignition module, coil (it was only $12 so what the heck the old one was an Accel) distributor cap, and rotor. Replaced the ignition module, and coil, but again the distributor cap and rotor were not the correct ones. Tried to start the car, but this time it still failed to start. Removed a plug wire and grounded it, no spark. I'm a bit stumped. I would appreciate any suggestions as to possible solution, and any ideas as to why I seem unable to get the correct cap and rotor? Did they make more than one, or is it possible someone substituted and different distributor?

I too have been considering this same swap. My 83 Brat is getting harder and harder to get into and keep in 4th gear. I seem to remember some comments about having to either cut up console for the 5 speed gearshift, or someone posted on here that they were selling a kit to be able to make the retrofit. Anyone know who to contact? Are parts available to rebuild a 4 speed? How about a good clutch upgrade? any recommendations on that? I've lifted the car and are now running 15" wheels and all terrain tires, so a better clutch would be helpful. Thanks

Bought an 82 BRAT about a year ago. Bought it off CL in Austin, Tx. traded a mini-14 rifle and $1,000.00. Was asking $2,000.00 with a bad water pump. Replaced the water pump in the mall parking lot and drove it back to Houston (my son followed me). Have about another 5k in it so far. Lift kit, 15" Toyota wheels, A/C repair, interior, exhaust, and suspension. Still needs paint, new pipe bumpers, and winch. I'll paint it, and fab the bumpers myself. Probably another 1k will finish it. Be into it for about 8k by then. Plan to keep it for awhile after that. Getting harder to find in restorable condition. Especially with a/c.

I just installed a 2" lift kit on my 82 Brat. I chose one I found on this very post. I tend to agree with IHScout on this one. Yes, the steering has to be extended. I used a 1/2" x 3" schedule 40 pipe nipple welded over the cut steering shaft. Yes, I assume no one wants to accept the liability of modifying the steering linkage. Not sure exactly what "other Subaru" you would get a longer piece of linkage out of. I noticed often folks just throw something like that out. The year and model might be just a wee bit useful. Brake lines were a problem also. No, a flared line on both ends won't work. One end needs to be flared with a male fitting, and the other needs to be female. I struck out after going to no less than six local suppliers. Ended up cutting the line supports and bending the tubing to make up the extra 2". You wouldn't be able to get any more than 2" slack out of the existing lines, so if you bought a three inch lift your out of luck. Not exactly self evident. In addition to holes not aligning in the kit I bought I discovered that three of the pieces were incorrectly fabricated. The rear spacers for the mustache bar were too short, the holes were off over an inch! I cut the piece in half and used it that way. The passenger side front piece also did not fit. Again I cut it in two to allow me to use it. The passenger side rear mustache bar spacer hit the gas tank. I beat the tank in slightly to get the piece in place. Nothing was included to to make the rear shocks fit since I added 2" between the frame and body. I guess just go to a shop and ask for Rancho shocks and they will know what you are talking about, and sell you the correct shocks???? Now I have the kit installed and my front camber is off +7/8" with no way to adjust it. Looks like a bit more cutting and welding will be in order. This time on the control arm. Unless I get a better idea from one of you folks. In all honesty I'm not even upset by the kit I bought. It is obviously a garage built unit, but the price was cheap enough. No instructions at all was the first clue. I intentionally left off the name of the person I bought this kit from. I never went back to him except to ask if he had any instructions. What I got from him was laughable, so it seemed useless to ask his opinion on anything else. Let the buyer beware, and allow a lot of time and energy to get this done. It does look cool, and now I think I'll be able to do some true off-roading at my deer lease. The Brat is perfect for hauling corn to my feeders, and harvested deer back to camp

I have an 82 Brat. I purchased a 2" lift kit for it from a supplier I found here on USMB. The kit came with no instructions, only several pieces of 2"x2" heavy wall tubing drilled, and two offset pieces which locate on the top of the front struts. The ad said no re-alignment would be required since the camber was built into the top strut mount provided. In all honesty the kit was cheap enough, but there was several issues with it. Holes not drilled correctly, and three pieces that would not fit as designed. It has taken me three weeks to rebuild the front suspension, and lift the car. I replaced axles, rotors, pads, wheel bearings, seals, struts, and tie rod ends. At the same time I purchased some new Toyota wheels and BF Goodrich tires. There seemed to be no way out but to replace the Subaru 13" wheels if I wanted a capable fwd. Couldn't find anyone that had a clue about wheel offset, and tire size. I went with 8" wheels, and 15" 215-75 tires. Wheels have a negative 6mm offset. Not nearly as much much as the original wheels which have something like a 30mm negative offset. Once lifted the front tires scrub the inner fender. I have cut the fender, and beat heck out of the inner sheet metal to get the tires to clear. Bottom line is I would recommend 7" wheels and a slightly smaller tire, perhaps a 205-70. Only thing is tire shop wouldn't mount the 205-70 tires on a 7" rim. I did find a couple of internet sources saying it would be fine, but I decided to go with the tire shops recommendation. The kit didn't come with anything to extend the steering linkage. Not sure what the heck the manufacturer thought you would do about the 2" difference. Nothing was said about brake lines. I removed the lines from the existing supports and was able to get the extra 2" out of them by gently bending the tubing. Rear shocks were the same story. Nothing in the kit to extend the shocks the extra 2" I was adding between the body and the frame. I fabricated some extensions out of 1"x.25" flat bar, drilled, heated and bent to properly align. Got everything together and drove my Brat down to get it alignment shop only to be told there isn't anything the alignment shop can do to correct the camber. I looked at the situation with the tech. It appears the only thing I can do is extend the lower control arm to correct he 7/8" positive camber I have at the bottom of my wheel. I think the radius rod and tie rod ends might extend far enough to correct after I extend the control arm. I sure hope so. Has anyone ran into this before, or am I getting off in the weeds with the control arm extensions? I looked at the top of the struts. The alignment shop told me they sometimes slot the top of the strut on lifted trucks to adjust camber, but they didn't think there was room on my Brat. No the project hasn't been easy, and I am an engineer who has been working on cars for more decades than most of you have been around. I have a shop full of tools, and I think I used most of them. Not really knowing what I was doing and having to feel my way through it has been one of the more frustrating parts. I took lots of pictures, and found a youtube video of a guy replacing his axle which helped. I have a factory service manual, but it too was of little use. In fact it almost scared me off with it's constantly referring to "special tools" that are required.