bodhicheetah

@xenongod I think $50/head is about average...especially for a quality job. Have you removed the heads?

If you haven't already, I'd read this: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2318069 Fuel injector replacement isn't that difficult or expensive, might be worth a try. I bought a set of reman OEM injectors for my wrx from KM Racing on ebay. They seem legit. I think these are the right ones for your car, but you should confirm that: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-OEM-2000-2006-Subaru-2-5L-NA-Fuel-Injectors-Flow-Tested-Cleaned/153500205940?hash=item23bd534374:g:HJIAAOSwLnBX7tXg#viTabs_0 Good luck!!!

Sucks to hear about that. Definitely sounds like a botched head gasket job. If you can't work on it yourself, how much can you spend? There are a lot of options...depending on your budget. Pay someone to do the work with the risk of finding bigger issues? If there are no major issues then your probably looking at $1500-$1800 for the HG replacement. Or maybe buy a JDM engine? (~$2000 delivered) and pay someone to install it? Maybe $3000 total all said and done but know that you have a reliable engine for the next 100k miles. Or maybe try to break even and sell the car as is for $1000 (probably less) and buy a beater to get you buy for $1000? I live in Colorado (Red Feather!) and haven't had to take my Subarus to anyone yet, but if I did, I'd probably take them to this guy. An independent Subaru specialist....Right in your neighborhood! Maybe he'd give you a free quote and help you make your decision. And if you need a machine shop, Jeff at US Automotive Machine & Performance, also in Loveland, does great work. He's a serious engine builder. He's machined two sets of heads for me. Which brings up another hidden cost....Both times he told me I needed to replace my exhaust valves, which I did. That adds about $500 to the bill. Good luck man!

I hear ya, a magnet is useless Wish I hadn’t mentioned the magnet, but I’m still gonna put one in there, I have a half dozen on hand so no cost to me. I’m mostly curious about the rings wearing in against the cylinder sleeve (both of which are steel, I believe) If there are more filings at first and then less after each change...that would be a good sign. In any case, consider it an experiment! I’ll report my findings if there are any. If nothing happens so be it...

Interesting. Found this article by Blackstone. His conclusion is that it basically doesn't do much either way, it's a difference of a few parts per million, doesn't really matter. Intriguing that in some cases the iron actually increased with the magnet (again, only by like 3 or 4 ppm). I was thinking maybe a tiny bit of iron might get stuck to the oil pan because of the magnet, and then releases when you pull the plug and washes out in the sample? Who knows! I'm sure some kookball on Bob is the Oil Guy will figure it out someday In any case, I just want to be able to clearly see any filings. I know you can see them suspended/shimmering in the oil, but I like the idea of seeing them on a magnet and being able to compare the difference between oil changes. And based on that article it doesn't sound like much of a risk, but thanks for the heads up!

Wicked, thanks for the detailed info! I’m also going to attach a rare-earth-magnet on the oil drain plug for the hell of it, make it easier to spot any metal filings (ferrous metal at least). At this rate it may be a month yet before I’m ready for start up, we’ll see. But it’s a relief to have a solid break in plan. Also, found this thread with GD explaining why honing isn’t necessary. Very reassuring! Thanks again, D

Cool, thanks for the replies. No hone it is. I'm still a little nervous about the rings not seating, but.... not having to split the block, take it back to the machine shop, reassemble it....I'll take my chances! @el_freddo When you say "standard practice," are you talking about breaking in the engine because of new rings, or the practice of "twisting" the rings onto the pistons? @nvu I would normally use Rotella t6, but that's synthetic, and as far as I know you can't get 5w40 conventional oil. Would you run 5w30 conventional for the break in? And you're saying to do a quick oil change after 50 miles? I was going to do a quick oil change anyway just in case of any cleaning residue, or heaven forbid, aluminum oxide (which is another huge concern of mine, but perhaps for a different thread) from the Red Scotchbrites that I used to clean the block surface and piston crowns. 50 miles sounds about right. This morning I was experimenting with the rings and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to get them onto the pistons without twisting them, so not really worried about that anymore. Thanks again! D

@nvu @GeneralDisorder So I'm at the point where I'm about to take the pistons out to make sure the ringlands are nice and clean. I bought a new set of rings (OEM from the dealership) and now I'm all paranoid that I need to hone the cylinder walls. Is it ok to just throw new rings in without a hone? The original crosshatching is still quite visible. So, yea, questions: Is it a must to hone the cylinders just for new rings? Do I need to "break in" the new rings? Special oil, etc.... Also I've heard you can't twist Subaru rings on like most people do. Is that true? I don't have piston ring pliers but I can't get them if I have to. Any input on those three questions would be much appreciated. I'd rather not split the block and drag it to the machine shop, but if I have to, so be it. And btw, it was indeed a burnt exhaust valve, cylinder 4, that was causing the low compression/miss fire. This project has been dragging on and on as I haven't had as much spare time as I hoped. I am getting pretty stoked now to put it all back together. Cheers, Dan

Alright. Did the leak down test, but, and I feel like a dufus on this, major correction to add here, the actual mileage on this car is 147,505. I had the 108 number in my head from the title (which is dated about 2 1/2 years earlier than when I bought the car...). So maybe a burnt valve wouldn't be as mysterious in this case after all. Anyway, embarrassment aside for the moment, there was air coming out of the exhaust, the intake, and the oil filler neck. Didn't see any bubbles in the coolant, checked all 3 caps. I totally forgot about squirting oil in the cylinder before the test so I'll probably do it again to see if less air comes out of the oil filler neck. Definitely seemed like most of the air was coming out of the exhaust. I appreciate all the advice so far and look forward to further advice. I'm ready to start taking this puppy apart! BC

Wicked. Thanks for the tips on the cams, just the kinda info I'm looking for. Will definitely look for vids on that. I've removed and installed a Subie crank bolt 3 or 4 times now and I think I"m gonna bite the bullet and spend the $40 or so for a holder. I've gotten by without it but it's always been a bit of a hassle, especially when I'm by myself and have to figure out how to jam something against the brakes, lol. Cheers!

Awesome, thanks for the replies. I figured I'd be taking it apart anyway, weather it's a burnt valve or a piston ring, but a leak down test seems pretty easy so...I guess I'll rent the tester and try to do the test this weekend and report back. I bought this car for cheap off a friend of mine who was the original owner. Which means he'd been driving it since he was like 16 so who knows how it was treated over the years. Also I think he was a fan of Mobil1 which I've heard is really not so good for WRXs? Aside from the misfire though (maybe I should have mention the P0304?) the car is in pretty decent condition. I'll let ya know how the leak down test goes! Cheers!

Or maybe "semi-overhaul?" I'm hoping NOT to take the block apart. In the coming weeks hopefully, I'm going to be removing the engine on a bone stock 2004 WRX EJ20 (wagon, 108,000 miles) due to what I'm pretty sure is a burnt valve. Only 30 psi in cylinder 4. Maybe it's a cylinder ring but I doubt it. I didn't do a leak down test... Regardless, I need to take it apart... Rather than spending hours scouring all the WRX forums for tips I'm reaching out here. Looking for advice on "must do's," part numbers, things to watch out for, tricks and techniques, links to write ups, that kind of stuff. Not looking to do any crazy upgrades, just want to get the car running again, but if there are inexpensive, quick and easy upgrades, that don't require a tune, I'm down for that. At the bare minimum I will be: Taking the heads to a machine shop for a valve job. Will probably have the heads decked, unless they're well within the factory tolerance. New head gaskets of course (recommended brands? Six star? OEM?). Timing belt, pulleys, water pump, etc (I'll probably go with an Asin kit...). Replacing all the obvious seals; Cam seals, valve seals, valve covers, etc..(Part numbers???). Spark plugs. Following the FSM to a tee. Or you know, within reason anyway. What if anything can I do to service the turbo? I want to replace the fuel injectors. Recommendations? Any must have special tools? I did the engine on my EJ22 and got by with what I have... Head bolts? My conclusion after hours of research was that Subie head bolts are 100% reusable, despite all the debate. Am I crazy? Any other advice is welcome! Thanks in advance! BC

Thanks for the offer! It's a 6 hour round trip for me, but I may very well do that. I'll PM you if that's what I decide.

Thanks for the replies! Gonna think on it for a bit I guess, see if I can find a compatible OEM Cat. I could straight pipe it if need be because I live in an emissions exempt area currently, but when I move I’d have to pass inspection. Why’d they discontinue the OEM Cats? Are there other/newer Subaru Cats that are compatible for my car?

Any info specific to the EJ22 catalytic converters and O2 sensors from those with experience and/or knowledge... much appreciated... I have a '97 OBS, EJ22EZ, apx 340,000 miles on it. Had a blown HG and recently re-sealed just about the entire engine (HGs, valve covers/stems, rear main seal, oil separator seal, oil pan seal, oil pump seal, yada yada yada). And of course the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets. Had the P0420 code before I re-sealed the engine but didn't really care. Now that I did all that work, I want it gone I know I could have done a bunch of testing... but.... I was just going to start with replacing the front sensor to see if that was the problem. However, the old one is seized good and proper. Now that I have to drop the front Cat to try and get the old O2 sensor off (A/F sensor? people seem to call it both...), I'm going to order a new Cat to have on hand in case the old Cat is indeed bad. Questions are: Aftermarket part number for the front Cat? Or both front and rear for that matter? OEM is discontinued. This one from Eastern Catalytic seems like the right one for the front, but I guess I'd have to plug the downstream sensor hole as the OEM one doesn't have that hole. Should I bother replacing the rear Cat? How often do they go bad? Or even if they do, if the front one is working, does it matter? Are the upstream and downstream sensors the same for this model year? They look the same, but I can't find a definitive answer on that. I'll probably replace the rear sensor just to be safe. I went with a Bosch 13445 (supposed to be same as Subaru 22690AA220) which I'm pretty sure is the right one for the front, but I'm not sure about the rear. I know for most cars, the upstream and downstream sensors are different, but they appear to be the same on this car. Anyway....I searched around but couldn't find a good write up or whatever specifically about EJ22 Cat/O2 sensor problems/fixes/part numbers... so I thought I'd ask here. Thanks in advance!

Deleted my post...posted new topic...

Lol, fair enough! I bought the NGK BKR6E-11 plugs, which are actually the recommended plugs from the factory service manual (I just recently downloaded). And yea the FSM recommends a gap between .039 and .043. I checked the NGK's gaps with feeler gauges and they are all at .042 dead on. I don't think I'll bother trying to gap them one more thousandth, but maybe. Cheers ya'll

11 years later...just wondering why .045 when you just said it should be between .039 and .043? Cheers!

(EJ22EZ engine, 1997 Impreza OBS) Thought I'd post these pics of the head gaskets I got off of ebay if anyone else was on the fence about getting something from Stone Ishino. I took a gamble on this kit after reading that Stone Ishino is an OEM supplier/distributor (manufacturer?) for Subaru. A pair of OEM gaskets alone were going for about $80 and this kit was only $115 so I went for it. (I noticed the same kit is also available on PartsGeek). Anyway, they look legit. Part number for the kit was W0133-1609342OEM (OEM part number for just the head gaskets is 11044AA114)

Really? I guess that would explain it. I figured someone got the wrong gaskets (like for a DOHC or something) and just tried to make them work... I could see them getting puffier but wouldn’t have thought they’d lengthen that much....

Been an interesting ride. Went with the one-piece tensioner because I couldn't be bothered to run to town (2hrs round trip) to get the bracket. The old tensioner actually seemed fine, but I changed it anyway. I'll sell the other two-piece one on ebay, no biggie. All the rollers' (pulleys, whatever) bearings definitely seemed worn. They spun freely (as opposed to the new ones which are a little stiff...), had a bit of play to them and made a little bit of noise, so I'm glad I got those with the kit too. Water pump seemed fine, but changed it anyway. I think the belt may have been changed at least once because the cover gaskets were the wrong size, unless they somehow magically expand in length. They were like an inch or two too long, and the previous person had just squished em in there all wonky which might explain why my cover was rubbing slightly against the crank pulley. I cut sections out of them so they fit properly. Gonna buy a new middle cover and gaskets when I do the head gaskets... Yep, head gaskets. The whole reason I decided to do the timing belt now was because my radiator started leaking and the engine overheated, and I knew it'd be easier with the rad outa the way. I was naively optimistic that it was just the radiator causing the over heat I bought a new rad and t-stat, and then decided to do the timing belt as well. I've since done a bunch of reading about HG symptoms and mine are pretty classic, wish I'd known. After I got it all buttoned back up and went to burp the system, coolant started boiling and steaming out of the filler cap before the fans even had a chance to come on. Then I rented a "block test kit" just to be 110% sure but couldn't use the damn thing because the coolant kept bubbling up through the rad cap and contaminating the tester, even though I drained the coolant down significantly. I guess I'd have to use one of those 2 level jobby jobs.... Anyway, I'm kinda lookin forward (in a weird way) to doing the HGs. Will be satisfying if I can pull that off, and I actually have access to an engine lift and mount, so I think I'll pull the engine. (And yes, do all the other gaskets/seals and have the heads machined, etc, etc, The main thing I'll be looking for now is the jdmfsm head gasket torque procedure for an EJ22EZ...hint hint. Anybody got a lead on that? Other than that there's a lingering question about the possibility of the heater core causing the overheat...but everyone seems to say it's always the HGs... Anyway, Here's those photos of my old belt... And the new one installed.. Now I get to take it all apart again, lol. Oh, and I went with 130 ft/lbs for the crank pulley. Cheers

Oh, and thanks for the info, and the scary pics! And yea, I might try like 110 ft/lb for the crank pulley. I actually replaced the pulley a while back... but of course now I can't remember what I went with at that time. G'night!

So I hadn't actually got in there yet when I posted earlier. Man o' man, that belt was old. I don't actually know how many miles my subie has on it, as I found an auction report for it after I bought it (3 years ago). It had about 65,000 less miles when I bought it than it did 7 years earlier when the auction report was created... 212,000 when I bought it, and 277,500 on the report. The report had pictures of the odometer. Either someone rolled the miles back on purpose, or had to change out the dash cluster for some reason. I'm sure it has at least 300k as I've already put another 35k on it. All of that is to say, I have no idea if or when the timing belt was ever ever done. I'll post pics of it when I get a chance to load them, but I suspect that it might have been the original damn belt. I'm counting my blessings that it didn't fail on me. I already have the Aisin kit, as well as the correct OEM tensioner from the dealer (woulda got it on ebay for cheaper but didn't have time), so I'm just going to go ahead and replace it all. The Aisin stuff seems legit and if this car lasts another 100k I'll be stoked. Small price to pay. I got as far as taking it all apart, gonna pick up where I left off tomorrow. Already feelin' pretty satisfied Cheers.

Yea, this has been driving me bonkers. I bought an Aisin kit and all the parts websites said that my 97 OBS had the "pencil style" so that's the kit I bought. I had luckily read one comment on Amazon about the two different styles and I asked the parts guy at my local dealership which one he thought I had and he said I definitely had the one-piece style. Lesson learned, call the damn dealership and ask them to search for whatever part I need, by VIN. Now I have to try and sell the useless tensioner that came with the kit. Also, this whole 105k vs 60k timing belt interval thing has been boggling the hell out of me. I called a dealership in California (Elk Grove Subaru) and they said that they always change the belts at 105k, across the entire state. Now, do you think that every Subaru vehicle in California has a special different timing belt than all the other 49 states? No F****** way This means that unless there are tons and tons of Subaru timing belts snapping left and right between 60k and 105k, all across California, that Subaru belts in fact last at least 105k miles. The proof is in the pudding! Oh yea, and the other confusing thing was the torque for the crank pulley bolt. Some people say 70ish ft/lbs others say 90ish ft/lbs. Again, call the damn dealership. Call 3 dealerships if you have to. Peace!

97' Impreza Outback Sport, M/T. My problem was that the vacuum hose had come loose from (what I think is called) the servo. Popped it back on and presto, working like a champ. I think I jostled it loose when I was replacing my reverse light switch a couple of weeks ago. Checked the clutch pedal switch too, and the rubber stop thing is definitely about to wear out, so yea good to know... Cruise Control Vacuum Line (Photo)