lrgvanman

I have never seen nylocks used on tie rods, just castle nuts,that is really concerning.

Usually mounted on assembly to left of brakelight switch.

Thanks, naru2. I just have to plan for the weather now.

Has anyone done a rack and pinion change on an '84 GL wagon? Manual steering. What is the time of the process? NAPA site says the average for generic is 4-6 hours. Just looking to verify and do at home if I can get motivated. Thanks in advance my friends. Like Comment

Fuse box, I believe.

I have an erratic wiggle and, once, taking the car to Les Schwab, an experienced tire person had to beat one of my wheels straight again, those wagon wheels seem to be problematic as far as easily being made crooked. I also suspect that the front axle on that side, the right front, got tweaked from attempting to jump the snow-covered curb while aiming for the driveway after our "Snowpocalypse" a year and a half ago.

Sad to say and this an embarrassing conclusion but silly and the car is now running again. High tension lead somehow disconnected. Hmmm... I want to post a picture but it is too large. Thanks all for answers contributed. Happy Motoring!

I have been an auto tech for some 50 years of my 64 and never encountered such an erratic symptom. I have very basic test equipment. Multi-meter and test light and that's it. She ran great for about a week and a half, shut her off one day, and no fire again. I replaced the disty and coil and throwing my hands up now!

Inquiring of the location of the ECM on a 1984 Subaru GL - 1984 Subaru Gl 4WD wagon left-hand drive. Erratic start. Does not fire but power to ICM and coil. Does not pulse. Ignition switch fine.

Just started. This is quite erratic!

I have had an ongoing problem since the car died. I first replaced the disty, thinking of the high mileage, and was confident that the sensor pickup had gone bad and noticed high heat along that side of the disty. The change did not allow ignition but the next day after checking for voltages and ALL terminals were hot, I reassembled and it fired up! I ran it for about 20 minutes to recharge the battery. Shut down, the next morning...no start. I checked all terminals and found they were still all hot, i.e., lit the test light. Pulled wires from the sensor and B+ at both connectors. I have changed the disty w/sensor, coil (polarity is correct), and what's next? The ECU? If so, where is it locate? Behind fusebox? I somehow do have an extremely light spark from coil but makes no sense as there seems to be a constant B+ on both terminals of the coil (polarity is correct) and no pulse, solid light from test light. A Twilight Zone episode, extended version!

Coil put out weakly and failed internal resistance but installing brand new coil does nothing. Same results. Very weak pulsing spark and both terminals of the ICM stay hot. Looking for way to diagnose ICM resistance. Probably just going to replace with my new spare ICM and see if that solves it.

Going through similar problems with a 1984 GL wagon. I tried to open that thread but it only comes up blank. I changed distributor while suspecting ICM. Car started and ran until I shut it off 20 minutes later. I tried to restart this morning to finalize with a timing light and idle adjustment but won't start now like before the dist change. 

Just a little about myself; for about 30 years of professionally turning wrenches, I was a mechanic/glorified parts changer 'cause I wasn't a master or certified I but had lots of experience. In 2005, my last job closed its doors. 6 months later, I went to work as a parts shuttle with CarQuest for 9 years (2005-2014). Getting rusty at it and so I have memory lapses once in a while of procedures I had once well known. I still do like the fact that I can save a buck or two usually. Thanks all and have great times!