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About Tetonvalleynick

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    I replaced the head gaskets on my 99 outback several years ago and now the transmission is dying. I found a 98 Forester with a bad engine and the body was in great shape so I've been working on swapping the engines.
  • Vehicles
    1998 Subaru Forester, 1999 Subaru Outback
  1. Everything in the transmission looked good and still appears to be good. At least the AT OIL TEMP light is no longer coming on.
  2. Okay I got the line pressure solenoid from a transmission in the junk yard. It ohms out to 3.3, along with the 2-4 brake solenoid. All the other solenoids ohm to 13.8 except the lock-up duty solenoid which ohms to 13.0 All of those appear to be within spec. specs for reference: Is there anything else I should check while I have the transmission pan off. I don't feel like cleaning gasket off this pan again for a very long time.
  3. Giving it a twist as I pulled helped. It still was more pressure to remove than I expected from just o-rings holding it in. Here is a pic of it removed for future reference:
  4. When my cam slips when I am putting a timing belt on a DOHC, I generally just have my wife hold a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt, and I use a half inch ratchet and move the exhaust cam back. Once it's there I pull the pin on the tensioner while she holds belt on the cam so it doesn't slip again.
  5. Is it this plug? If so it connects to the coolant pipe that goes across the block and it's a pain to plug in. Mine also had a small connector underneath it.
  6. Thanks Fairtax4me Has anyone pulled one of these out and can tell that there is a trick or more than a little tug to get them out. I'd rather not break something else inside the valve body. The service manual just said to remove them. Here are the names and locations of the solenoids for anyone who looks at this later.
  7. Nipper thanks for the location information. It was surprisingly hard to find buried in some blue tape. After seeing it for what it was it's hard to not see it now. This is from a 1997 legacy outback Here is a picture for anyone else looking for it, in the drivers side tail light access panel
  8. Also I tried to pull the solenoid out but it seemed to require more force that a simple tug. Should there be alot of force to remove one of the solenoids?
  9. I am getting an P0748 error and when I do the special handshake with the transmission it gives me a 75. On a side note I have read numerous notes of checking the resistor? I was not sure what to look for when looking for it. It's suppose to be on the fender on the passenger side, but I didn't see anything that looks like a resistor there. Both of those codes are for the line pressure solenoid. I pulled the pan off and all of the solenoids ohm at ~15 but 2. One of the ohms at 4.8 and the other doesn't at all. I am guessing the one the doesn't work is the line pressure solenoid. This doesn't seem to match what I have seen/read from peoples 4eat's, is this trasmission a 4eat? There seem to be at least 3 different types of solenoids. If I can't find this part in a junk yard can I use the solenoid from the dealer that is the 2-4 brake solenoid. They said there wasn't a pressure solenoid in their system. transmission type on vin plate says TZ1A3ZC2AA Here's a picture of the solenoinds:
  10. Should I worry about having done any head or valve damage?
  11. So the phase I head gasket is slightly thicker? Basically I have to take the engine back apart and put phase I head gaskets on it because they are thicker when compressed? Are the pistons or heads damaged from running it like that?
  12. fairtax4me, it was the other way around, 25D block between the phase II heads 86BRATMAN, so the pistons are coming in contact with the head gaskets?
  13. 99 legacy outback should be a DOHC I recently worked on mine. It takes me about 2 hours depending on if the intake cam slips or not while putting on the belt. I didn't replace the pulleys on mine mine but did replace the tensioner. All of the pulleys still spun well and had very little play in them so I left them on there. My front crankshaft seal was also bad, and I took care of that while I was in there, which only added an addition 10 minutes. If you have an oil leak behind the timing cover it doesn't hurt to check on that now while yo have all that off. Also 13 hours is ridiculous.....
  14. Okay everything went together fine. The engine runs when I start it, but it sounds like it's knocking. The block never had knock or piston slap with the other heads on it. That doesn't seem like something that would manifest itself with different heads on it, but if it is, I am sure someone here would know.