Tetonvalleynick

Everything in the transmission looked good and still appears to be good. At least the AT OIL TEMP light is no longer coming on.

Okay I got the line pressure solenoid from a transmission in the junk yard. It ohms out to 3.3, along with the 2-4 brake solenoid. All the other solenoids ohm to 13.8 except the lock-up duty solenoid which ohms to 13.0 All of those appear to be within spec. specs for reference: Is there anything else I should check while I have the transmission pan off. I don't feel like cleaning gasket off this pan again for a very long time.

Giving it a twist as I pulled helped. It still was more pressure to remove than I expected from just o-rings holding it in. Here is a pic of it removed for future reference:

When my cam slips when I am putting a timing belt on a DOHC, I generally just have my wife hold a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt, and I use a half inch ratchet and move the exhaust cam back. Once it's there I pull the pin on the tensioner while she holds belt on the cam so it doesn't slip again.

Is it this plug? If so it connects to the coolant pipe that goes across the block and it's a pain to plug in. Mine also had a small connector underneath it.

Thanks Fairtax4me Has anyone pulled one of these out and can tell that there is a trick or more than a little tug to get them out. I'd rather not break something else inside the valve body. The service manual just said to remove them. Here are the names and locations of the solenoids for anyone who looks at this later.

Nipper thanks for the location information. It was surprisingly hard to find buried in some blue tape. After seeing it for what it was it's hard to not see it now. This is from a 1997 legacy outback Here is a picture for anyone else looking for it, in the drivers side tail light access panel

Also I tried to pull the solenoid out but it seemed to require more force that a simple tug. Should there be alot of force to remove one of the solenoids?

I am getting an P0748 error and when I do the special handshake with the transmission it gives me a 75. On a side note I have read numerous notes of checking the resistor? I was not sure what to look for when looking for it. It's suppose to be on the fender on the passenger side, but I didn't see anything that looks like a resistor there. Both of those codes are for the line pressure solenoid. I pulled the pan off and all of the solenoids ohm at ~15 but 2. One of the ohms at 4.8 and the other doesn't at all. I am guessing the one the doesn't work is the line pressure solenoid. This doesn't seem to match what I have seen/read from peoples 4eat's, is this trasmission a 4eat? There seem to be at least 3 different types of solenoids. If I can't find this part in a junk yard can I use the solenoid from the dealer that is the 2-4 brake solenoid. They said there wasn't a pressure solenoid in their system. transmission type on vin plate says TZ1A3ZC2AA Here's a picture of the solenoinds:

Should I worry about having done any head or valve damage?

So the phase I head gasket is slightly thicker? Basically I have to take the engine back apart and put phase I head gaskets on it because they are thicker when compressed? Are the pistons or heads damaged from running it like that?

fairtax4me, it was the other way around, 25D block between the phase II heads 86BRATMAN, so the pistons are coming in contact with the head gaskets?

6 star head gaskets

99 legacy outback should be a DOHC I recently worked on mine. It takes me about 2 hours depending on if the intake cam slips or not while putting on the belt. I didn't replace the pulleys on mine mine but did replace the tensioner. All of the pulleys still spun well and had very little play in them so I left them on there. My front crankshaft seal was also bad, and I took care of that while I was in there, which only added an addition 10 minutes. If you have an oil leak behind the timing cover it doesn't hurt to check on that now while yo have all that off. Also 13 hours is ridiculous.....

Okay everything went together fine. The engine runs when I start it, but it sounds like it's knocking. The block never had knock or piston slap with the other heads on it. That doesn't seem like something that would manifest itself with different heads on it, but if it is, I am sure someone here would know.

Fairtax4me thanks, I turn it 180 degrees and it slipped as I had been expecting. I can't imagine the amount of force the mechanic who put that in used.

It was hard to tell but i could see all the way through fairly well. I never took the axle off the car though, so I'll go ahead and pull the axle nut off and turn it 180 degrees and see if it looks better. Thanks for the information

I punched out a roll pin on my 97 legacy outback and it seemed like it took more effort than it should have and when it finally came out it had been broken. I went to put a new pin in and it was being a real bugger to work with so I took a look at the roll pin that had come out. It was permanently compressed. Is it possible that the shaft from the transmission has a hole that is too small for standard subaru roll pins? Here's a few pictures of the pin: Here's the roll pin from the 97 legacy compared to a pin I pulled from a 99 forester last week.

When getting a head gasket kit for this I would use the the 99 forester SOHC engine to look it up right?

AdventureSubaru, thanks for the posting the models years that work with this. I'll go ahead and look for a new engine while I wait to find out if those heads are okay or not, so if they are I will be able to order it right away.

Thanks for the information. I'll pull the heads off and have them checked. The previous owner ran it out of oil so I'll cross my fingers. So if the heads are are okay, is there anything else I will have to do? The forester was made 7/98 and the outback was made 10/98 go figure they have two different ej25's EJ253AXZVB in the forester and EJ25DAWEYL in the outback

It sounds like you are saying that the ej25 in the outback is a phase 1 and the forester has a phase 2, is that correct? They are both ej25's Here's the forester: Here's the outback:

I put the engine from a wrecked 99 outback into a nice 98 forester that threw a rod. Things were going mostly okay until I went to connect wire harnesses and I noticed that they didn't match. I then looked the intake manifolds and they were slightly different so I wouldn't be able just swap the manifolds and wiring harness over. I didn't check every connection, but it seemed that most of the connections from the two manifolds were the same, but the bolts on the manifold from the 98 forester were offset while the bolts on the manifold from the outback were all in a straight line. forester engine intake outback engine intake Is it possible to get this outback engine to work with the forester? If so what do I need to do?

Thanks for the responses. Of course the one stud that's not long enough is the one that needs to be used for the starter, so I will have to pull it out. I agree though as far as studs go, I'd prefer more studs and less bolts.

I've been working on swapping an engine from a 99 legacy outback (manual transmission) in to a 98 forester (automatic transmission) I finally went to put the engine in the forester today and noticed the one of the studs on the engine wasn't protruding through the transmission bell housing. So I looked over the old engine I had pulled from the forester and noticed that it only had two studs on the engine whereas the one from the outback had four. After many creative searches and reading many threads I had decided to see if anyone in this community of knowledge has any light to shed on this for me. This seems like an uncommon configuration for the studs on a EJ25 as most pictures I have see only have the two bottom studs. So can I pull the stud from the engine and just use the old bolts off the forester as I was planning to do? If so how do you remove the stud? Are they any other weird problems that I am likely to run into and should gear myself up for? It seems like 99 was a magic year for the EJ25...... Since I am writing this up I had one question regarding the lining up of the drive plate with the torque converter. Is there an easy way to line up the bolt holes or do you just have to guess and then move the drive plate by rotating the engine. I have it lined up now, and I doubt it will get out of line when I pull the engine, I'd just like to know if there was an easier way in the future. This is a picture of the engine I removed. I did find a picture of the an engine with the stud configuration like mine.