firehawk618

I'll take a stab at this. Question #1 8x70 8 lug wheel? What would that come on? Seems like if it were a 70mm bolt circle then the lugs would all be touching each other? If you could find 8 lug on 140mm bolt circle then I don't see why they couldn't be made to fit pretty easy however I don't believe there to ever be a wheel produced with that bolt circle. Question #2 Is English your first language because I can't comprehend what you are asking no matter how many times I read your question.

On a vacuum advanced distributor just warm the rig up, make sure your idle speed is set, unplug and cap the vacuum hose and set timing.

I used an 88 dash and engine harness in my 86. This required me to change all the switches to the 88 style. I had to study both diagrams closely. The 86 only has one flasher but it's part of the turn signal switch. The 88 also only has one flasher but it is separate from the switch.

And a quick video because threads are better with videos!

I would check out the relay first.

Thanks. Welp, got it to fire up this afternoon! It was actually a bit simpler than I expected. I would like to remove the EA82 SPFI harness from the dash / headlight harness in tact *if that's even possible and it will eliminate a ton of wires under the dash as a bonus. It moved under it's own power! To do: Finalize wiring, figure out radiator hoses, weld up some exhaust, get my pitch mount hooked up, delete all smog crap off the EJ............ and probably a bunch more I am forgetting. My goal is to be 100% done within two weeks. I will only have time to work on this after work and weekends at this point. Once 100% done onto the lift / tires.

Engine's 100% bolted in. PS lines bent / twisted to fit. Radiator's in. Wiring harness stuck through firewall. Tomorrow = plug things in and run temporary jumper wires to see if it fires up and see how the engine sounds. Left to do= adapt radiator hoses, make wiring permanent and build exhaust.

I might add. Since I had the engine out I made the decision to add power steering. I am certain I will get sick of the armstrong steering once I am out wheeling in the mountains with it. Also since I sort of need a PS pump on this engine to be able to tension the belt it made my decision easier. Also, if anyone cares to know. I had to do zero grinding on the subframe for the mounts to fit. My slots were already oval shaped. The mounts on the EJ22 had no centering pins either. It literally dropped right in!

A few pictures.

Welp, got the flywheel ground and EJ22 bolted in tonight. Tomorrow will be installing everything else on the engine + wiring. I should have it able to fire up by Sunday evening. I will still need to weld together some exhaust, figure out the top mount thing and radiator hoses. I can't wait to finish this so I can concentrate on wheels / lift.

I've had that knock after installing new timing belt kits twice. It was the brand new tensioner each time. Believe me or not that's your choice. It was fairly easy to prove. Remove outer covers, start car. I used a screwdriver to push on the tensioner pressure point and poof sound gone.

You need to swap the whole dash harness also.

It could be relevant. If the swap was done with the late engine harness plugged into the early body harness. They are very VERY different but will plug right in. Been there, done it.

Wiring issues for sure. I'm willing to bet you have more than one issue causing all your problems. If you're good with schematics then it should be easy to tackle them If not then I highly recommend having someone that's GOOD with wiring troubleshoot it. You can easily create more problems than you have now.

Their website shows that the seller is located in Oregon. $600 for a set of 14" wheels though...........

Vacuum leak, ECT sensor, post MAF air leak, TPS issue, Ignition issue. Just a start.

Where are they and how much?

Ok good to know. Is one stronger / preferred over the other?

I'm looking to pick up a set of spare axles all around on my car to have on hand for spares. When I look up an interchange it shows 85-86 the same rears but 87 and on are listed as different. Is this true and do you guys know what the differences are? Thanks

Pull the intake, make sure you clean the threads in the head really well and clean the threads on the both really well. Light coat of silicone on both sides of each gasket. Put her back together and you should be good.

OP pulled a hit and run! *ask ? then not return to answer any related questions.

Well my time spent with an EA82 powered GL is going to be short lol. I was going to run the EA82 until I could kill it however the other night I was on a stretch of I5 which is 70mph and this car would barely hold it! That was on flat ground. I wanted to go 80 and it just wasn't going to happen ROFL. I sourced an OBDii EA82 wiring harness today *what a nightmare to pull that is!* and got it all stripped down to the bare essentials. I chose OBDII so I can use all my scan tools in the future for diagnostics. I will be running only what's needed to run. No EGR, no 2nd o2 sensor, no EVAP etc etc. By next weekend I will have the engine here and I will put all new gaskets / seals in it before it goes in the GL. Time to order an adapter plate and clutch. On the clutch note I do have a question that perhaps you can answer. I found the EA81 to EJ22 write up however I have yet to find definitive answers as to what combination of clutch I should use? XT6 PP and disc? XT6 PP and EA82 disc? Any input is welcome on this one. I will be running mudders and a lift so I would like whatever clutch goes in it to hold. Thanks!

The fuel pump relay is right behind the fuse box. There's a row of 5 or so of them. They're cylinder shaped. Before you go chasing fueling issues why don't you just get a can of starting fluid *ether and spray some in the throttle body and see if the car runs for a second. You can simply lift the boot off the top of the throttle body, spray some in, set the boot back in place and try to start it.

I also put a new clutch cable in. WOW what a difference that made. The old one felt fine off the car but under a load was extremely stiff!

My only point is even if someone found one with 30k miles, little old lady only took it to church sundays. Never seen rain or snow. Always garaged etc etc it would take ages to get $3000 for it IF it ever sold for that much. Perhaps in 20 more years then it might fetch $3k.