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montanaboy27

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  • Location
    Belgrade, MT
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    Google.com
  • Biography
    Home mechanic... I know just enough to be dangerous... just ask my Wife!
  • Vehicles
    1997 Subaru Legacy Outback Limited

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  1. Update: You were dead on Gloyale! Turns out the guy I bought the motor from neglected to tell me he sold the knock sensor off the motor before he sold it to me! Nice guy.... anyway.... installed a knock sensor and shazam! No more loose ends! Thanks again for all the help! It's not running yet, so I may be back to lean on your knowledge! MT
  2. Wow.... apparently all of my posts did in fact go through... lol... oh well! Thanks again at any rate!
  3. Thanks for the answer Gloyale! I'll do that and remove the one under the hood.... less is more! As for the wire, I'll take a look at the knock sensor... looked up images of the connector and they do look similar. Thanks for the insight! I really appreciate it!!! MT
  4. Thanks for the answer Gloyale! I'll do that and remove the one under the hood.... less is more! As for the wire, I'll take a look at the knock sensor... looked up images of the connector and they do look similar. Thanks for the insight! I really appreciate it!!! MT
  5. Thanks for the answer Gloyale! I'll do that and remove the one under the hood.... less is more! As for the wire, it would make more sense that it has something to do with the intake plenum. I'm picking up an airbox tonight and hopefully that will answer my question. Finally got a photo to attach... hopefully that will help! Thanks again! MT
  6. OK Subaru Gurus... It's just what the title says, but I have a few questions. The 97 motor has vacuum lines that go to the old evap canister that mounts to the frame rail just to the right of the front of the motor. I have the canister installed and all hooked up, but have also discovered that the 98 relocated the canister to just behind the rear right wheel. Is this going to cause some sort of fault code or headache and if so, how do I go about deleting one system so it plays nice with the ECU... i.e. no codes being thrown. The next issue is that I have everything hooked up minus the airbox and noticed a two conductor white connector on the back side of the intake manifold with no mate in site. Is this for some option that the 98 lacks or am I missing something entirely?? I would attach a photo, but for some reason it won't let me.... Any help and insight would be greatly appreciated! MT
  7. Hey Sub! No CEL or any indicator lights. The plugs and wires looked fine, but it's certainly an option. (Looked them over & cleaned when the motor was on the stand) I've checked all of the vacuum hoses and even went around with starting fluid listening for a vac leak... so I think I'm good there, but like I said, I'm not against re-checking things! Thanks for the MPG info, as I am flying blind with this one... I know what it says online, but that may differ now that it's 19 years old! As for the ATF, I figured I'd do everything minus the flush. I pulled the pan and replaced the filter & cleaned it out really well. I used Lucas Transmission Additive for old/slipping transmissions, then filled it up... periodically getting in and shifting through the range. Seemed to be fine at the time. I know there was still old tranny fluid in there from the TC, but the majority of it came out. I'll re-check what you came up with just in case! Thanks for the quick reply! If I learn anything, I'll post back here! MT
  8. OK, so here's the skinny... I bought this car from a guy and we'll just say he wasn't entirely truthful on everything that's wrong with it. I have so far pulled the motor and replaced the head gaskets, all the seals, water pump etc. Got it all back together and only then discovered that it had a serious case of torque bind... pulled it apart and replaced the duty solenoid 'C'... took it for a drive and things seemed to be looking up. I drove it to work for about a week and now I think it has an issue with the IAC valve... what I've noticed so far is that at constant speeds it seems to "surge"... very slightly & consistently, but the worst part is it bogs down when accelerating from a dead stop... also shifts pretty hard from first to second, though I've heard that is relatively normal for subby's... I also My plan is to remove the IAC Valve and clean it out... the engine was very full of carbon when we had it all apart. After it's at operating temp, the idle drops to around 500... I think this is too low which also leads me to the IAC. I haven't checked the MPG yet, but I filled it and only have about half a tank left with roughly 100 miles traveled thus far. I'm unfamiliar with what I should be getting for MPG's on this car. Another thing I've observed is that when it shifts at higher RPM's, I hear a "sucking" sound from the drivers (?) side engine compartment... not sure if it's related or just another thing that I'll have to turn my attention to eventually... Just wanted to poke my head in here and see if anyone has any other suggestions for me to try. I thought maybe a fuel pump or fuel filter as well, but don't know if these symptoms fit the bill or not. Any thoughts & or suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance! MT
  9. Thanks for the quick answer Fair! I did eventually figure that out, but thought I would check back in case there was a better answer. I'm to a point where I need to take the back of the trans off.... all the bolts are out... just have to get mildly "western" with it to break it loose... something for tomorrow! Thanks again! MT
  10. Hey All! Newb poster here, so go easy. So after buying this '97 OBW from the one that shall from here until eternity be referred to as, "The Lying Sap Sucking Puke", I have pulled the motor and replaced the head gaskets and everything else that you do with the motor out. Fast forward to this week... after test driving for the first time I discover it has a sever case of "torque bind".... sooo I go to the stealer and buy a new duty 'C' solenoid... I think no big deal... that is until I get to the point at which I need to rotate the drive line to unbolt it... I am able to get 3 out of the 4 bolts... I go and put the trans in neutral and climb back under... go to rotate the drive line and nada... won't turn but maybe a few degrees.... tried shifting through the range a few times thinking it may be "stuck" or something and still no joy.... I am at a loss and I refuse to lose to this beast! The only other thought that I have had is to jack up a rear tire and see if I can get the stupid thing to spin. Thoughts? At this point I yield to the Great Subaru Kings of yesteryear that have more experience than I in the ways of the mechanical realm. Thank you in advance!! MT
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