alexbuoy

Also picked up a bunch of stuff and a Datsun 720 transfer case from board member czny. I’m excited to see where this goes but it won’t be until the summer till I start planning the divorced tcase

Past couple weeks i’ve just been preparing the car for King if the Hammers. Got almost everything I wanted done. Didn’t get around to a skidplate but I guess just pick good lines. Replaced my master cylinder, tucked my wiring, got a pitch bar mount made, made a poly diff bushing and trans bushings and replaced just about every hose on the engine/car. Should be pretty reliable now. And also i’m working on another front lift. 4.5 inches and i’m going to try a straight cut. Should fix my insane negative camber and rake.

Does anyone know what angle I should cut the front blocks at? It's for a Brat with EA82 front xmember/suspension. I tried 5 degrees but there is still a little negative camber. I'm thinking about cutting it straight with no angle next. Also would my axles be OK with a 5 inch front lift and a 4 inch subframe drop? With aftermarket EA82 front axles. Thanks

1. Depends. I love my EA81 and EA82 platform, but I wouldn't mind anything with an H6 or an EJ22. I shy away from everything else. 2. Manual all day. Only time i've heard someone prefer a CVT is on the trails, guess they don't know the power of the dual range haha. 3. I like toyotas and hondas. Pretty reliable although our 4runner blew a headgasket at only 270K miles. Really depends what you want to do. If it's a DD subaru isn't bad. Especially if you need the AWD. If you want to trail it Tacomas and 4Runners all day.

Nice good to hear it worked out

Those blocks look like straight cut blocks. You want the blocks to be installed so the shocks are pushed closer to the car rather than further

Sold for $46,198!! Guess we better stockpile our EA81's and EA82's because i've got a feeling they are the next to go up in price.

Got the loyale out of the garage finally. Under it's own power too. I'm out of school and work for the rest of the year so hopefully I can pay more attention to my subarus. I want to get the Brat reliably running and trail worthy soon. I also will have 4WD for the brat again soon.

Really haven't done much to the brat recently nor do I really drive it anymore. About a month ago I had two coolant hoses fail. Replaced a majority of the coolant hoses so it should be good to go. Still need to burp the coolant system. Need to fix my heat controls asap as it's getting cold here in southern california lol.

My friend works at a shop in Vacaville. might be a drive for you but if you want shoot me a message and I can link you up with him. He had a loyale very similar to yours, 2 inch lift, dualrange, etc.

I used the stock pedal box assembly and clutch cable on my conversion. Use the 4 speed brackets on the 5 speed, needs a little modifying.

I would be able to make you a 2 inch kit. But sounds like you’re in australia and i’m in the US so shipping is going to be killer

I’ve never seen a non a/c ea82 alternator bracket like that. My alternator bracket was off an 88 GL. I don’t even think that bracket is for EA81 either

Only “light” modification is a 2 inch lift and fitting 27 inch tires. You either need to drill out your hubs to 6 lug or drill out 6 lug wheels to 4x140 to fit 15’s. Other than that weld the rear and dual park brakes up front.

Here is the alternator setup on my EA82 without A/C. I think there are two brackets? Did you just rip out A/C or never had A/C?

This was the first weekend I was really able to hit some dirt in the Brat. I finally got the power steering in too . The PS took a dump driving home but I haven't been able to diagnose it. Drove 1.5 hours to Gorman, CA to test it out. Something is clunking in my front end extremely bad now, but I was going pretty hard hitting big dips and bouncing the rev limiter. Here is my favorite shot from the trip Me with my friend Jason and his 1982 Brat. Of course there had to be carnage. My temperature gauge broke on the way. And worse my rear stub axle shaft sheared in half. Took me like 30 minutes to put a rear axle in and 5 minutes later snapped the stub axle shaft. The day after Gorman I went to Subiefest out in Arcadia, California. Shame I don't take photos, I always forget. Thank you to Pedro for this shot of me rolling in Very weak selection of old school subarus out there. I think in total there were 4 Brats, 1 Loyale, 1 GL, and 1 XT6. That was the first time i've seen an xt6 and that thing was cool. Should've taken a picture of it. 83 Subaru GL, 300k+ miles AND it drove from Reno, Nevada down to Los Angeles. That is far as f!! 91? Loyale. No lift, 27's. Possibly one of my favorite cars there Love that fitment

The tube chassis is about 90% done now. I'd like to eventually link the front/rear bumpers and the shock hoops to it. And I finally welded in my drivers side rock sliders. It's kind of crooked and annoying, but oh well, can't do anything about it now. The passenger side turned out amazing though. And here is a crappy picture of my tube chassis. I'll need to get a better picture eventually.

Hopefully I will have floorpans that are solid and not have any gaping holes in it. I've got almost an entire rust free floorpan that I need to weld in, I just need to find the time. People always get tripped up when they see the floorpan behind the seats are just a gaping hole. But the mounts for the drivers seat I welded in reinforcements... so I got that going for the car haha.

The Loyale 4WD pushbutton just has FWD and 4WD hi. The GL dualrange have FWD, 4WD hi, and 4WD lo. if you’re trailing it upgrade to dualrange

I had a 1987 GL trans in my 1991 loyale. Straight forward swap

Thanks! Unfortunately I do not have a tube bender. The tube chassis was done with some pretty unconventional angles but should work. The sliders were for a toyota but were cut down to make it work. The pictures don’t do it justice how rusty it is. I’m still driving with half my floor pans missing haha.

About a week ago I picked up some mint seats to replace my worn, torn seats. I was able to score 2 rear axles, 2 seats, headlight bezels from a 1980 hatch, and an antenna for $110 from the Junkyard. That antenna was hard to find, I think only 3 years were made with it being on the drivers side. And I was finally able to wrap up my ditch lights. Made with 1/8 steel, no drilling or modifications required. I'm planning to take a trip to Gorman this Friday and go to Subiefest on the 21st. After my test on Tuesday i'll be trying to wrap up my tube chassis, sliders, and make some more hybrid rear axles. The tube chassis is almost complete, I just need to fully finish welding a couple spots. The passenger side sliders are completely welded on and they look bad @ss. The drivers side still needs tubing to be notched and welded on.

1982 Subaru Brat EA82 Front crossmember/suspension 4/3 Inch lift 29" mud terrains 5 Speed Dual Range EJ22 Welded Rear diff Same rear shock setup as OP

Simple writeup on how to extend your radius rods. Works on EA82 and EA82. Let me know if there should be anything added to the file. Also let me know if the link works. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1fkV-qKOUSRcKx4W61NXp-KiIdVVysgXihl84dWohwg8/edit?usp=sharing

Got this car for free it's extremely rusty, but I think it'll be a great trail rig. I'm already a couple months into the build and it should be ready for the trails real soon. My first subaru was a 1991 Loyale 5 Speed 4x4 I picked up for $675. The two following years it received a 2" lift, 29 inch tires, a 5 speed dualrange swap, a welded rear diff and an EJ22 swap. The entire driveline was donated to the brat. I'm hoping to get the loyale running again with the stock EA82 and 5 speed pushbutton 4WD. I also had a red Loyale for about a year. What's been done to the BRAT 4/3 inch homebrew lift EA82 Front End Front to back tube chassis Ej22 Swap 5 Speed Dualrange Welded Rear Diff Rock Sliders Rear shock hoops Fuel Cell EA81/EA82 hybrid rear axles to name a few... This is it's current condition. Updated as of October 26 2018 This whole build was done with just an angle grinder, bandsaw, and a welder in the garage. My Loyale Pictures from the previous owner. Originally a New Mexico car. Rusted to spoob and the pictures don't do justice. I had to drive 2 hours to San Diego to pick it up and used 2 triple A tows to get it home. At least it had a clean title. Engine ran, but only on 3 cylinders. No power. I think that engine was toast. Mileage was unknown. Finally got it home, at least he left the cyclops light grille and a fairly complete interior. Exterior wise everything was missing Flat towed it to the DMV to register it. Over the next few months I started to collect all the missing exterior parts. Here is what it looked like after I got all the parts. MINT jump seats and headrests!!! Stole the EJ22/Harness, 5 Speed dualrange, driveshaft, and welded rear diff courtesy of the Loyale But before I could put any of those parts in, I wanted to change over to EA82 front suspension as it is superior, wider track, and has power steering. The EA82 front crossmember was wider, so I had to offset the holes on the lift blocks. Then the blocks got linked together with DOM tubing. Finally the EA82 front suspension was on minus the front lift blocks. The whole front suspension was scavenged from an 85 GL. All the EA81 front suspension was ripped out. I was doing a 4/3 Inch lift and the subframe for the front was dropped 4 inches. You can see here how the subframe block holes are offset. I think around an inch each hole was offset Here are my designs for the EA81 to EA82 subframe blocks. On the subframe blocks on the engine crossmember closest to the cab, the holes were offset about 1.25 inches. On the subframe blocks on the engine xmember closest to the front clip, the holes were offset 1 inch. See the pictures to get what i'm saying. Blocks on the crossmember and blocks on the radius rod/transmission mount. Then linked all the blocks. Front xmember, trans xmember. Some sick notching. Done by hand I also decided it would be best to extend the radius rods. I extended them 1.5" to help clear my 29's. Note : you need to notch the holes in the control arms. 1.5" imo was a little to much. Now onto making the front strut lift blocks.cut at 6 degrees had an assload of camber... Finished product. Blocks tacked together Now onto the rear end. Very simple I used 4 pieces of 3x2x2" square tubing to lift the rear torsion bars. I also dropped the rear Diff the same amount which required 4 blocks of the same 3x2x2" tubing. Rear lift blocks in. And I know this thing is rusty. Rear lift blocks got linked as well. Threw in the Ej22 along with the 5 speed transmission, rear diff and driveshaft. To make the 5 Speed dualrange fit, I used the 4 speed mounting brackets which were modified. The holes in the bracket were elongated. Than the 4 speed transmission bracket and mounts were able to be used, to bolt to the 4 speed trans crossmember. The trans crossmember holes had to be notched. Wiring I went with a different approach than in the loyale. Everything power related was hooked to a switch panel like the on, start, fuel pump, and acc. I believe I only spliced the harness to two wires, the tachometer and the VSS. Well it finally ran and drove! I also made a quick front bumper for it. First time out of the garage. Drove ok but had no rear shocks, and the steering was sloppy. The steering I had in was a manual EA82 rack, and I had like 3 u-joints which made for ultra sloppy steering. Drove it 10 minutes to Agoura Hills. Had some extreme issues with it dying when coming to a stop. I still haven't fixed it but I do believe its because of my broken Speedo cable tripping up my VSS. Driving it with no shocks was sketch. Back end was wayyy to soft and hopped all over the place driving down the road. Had to hit a trail on the way home. No rear axles. I started working on welding in shock hoops for the rear. Used 3/16 plate to weld to the frame rails along the pinch welds, and generic shock hoops bought offline. Eventually this will also be linked to the tube chassis. Here is the drivers side welded in Both hoops welded in. Yes the passenger side hoop had to be angled. Linked the two hoops together for uber strength. I'd like to see how this holds up as the frame rails are super thin. And this is my fuel cell I mentioned. It's plastic. The whole front end was finished being tubed, so it got hit with a coat of paint. Got around to swapping in a blown power steering rack from my loyale. I had to extend my current (90-94 legacy) steering knuckle a couple inches to make it work. The new steering joint and blown power steering rack cured the sloppy steering. Eventually I'll have power steering in it. I have a whole new power steering rack and tie rods in the garage but I need to find lines to make it work with the EJ. The tube chassis was nearing completion, so I took it 45 minutes away to a trail in Malibu. Despite it being FWD I was able to make it up most obstacles. My friend in his first gen 4runner was spinning tires (open/open diffs). I struggled but bumping it I made it up more obstacles than I expected. Stay tuned. In my next post the rock sliders will be fished and i'll show some pictures of the tube chassis.