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Huffer

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  1. It's not the driveshaft, it's the transmission mount (on my car). Thanks though!
  2. Feel like I'm having a conversation with myself, but oh well, someone might get some use out of it... I went and spoke to Mel Kistner @ Halpert Subaru in Mentor, OH. He test drove my car for a spirited run around the area, came back and put the car on the hoist. Turns out my "wagging" car is because of a worn transmission mount, not the drivetrain etc. So that's a relief! The only downside is that the car also needs a new exhaust system because of 2 holes in the catalytic converter sections. All up, to fix the problems (vibration & rich running), Mel quotes me $1000 inc. labour.
  3. Ok, just read some posts about torque bind. It does not feel like torque bind. I have no issues with cornering, in fact last night I took an onramp at 50mph with no issues. Back end felt like it might have stepped, but that is probably due to winter tires and the Cusco swaybar set for oversteer. Last night I was cruising home at 65mph. Popped it into N, and revved up. No problem - no shaking in the car like there was an exhaust part swaying under pressure. So I believe it's something to do with the transmission + driveshaft. Which is a bugger. I'm not confident I can diagnose this properly, so it'll be off to the local dealership.
  4. Thanks for the reply - but what is a "ujoint"? I don't think it's the tires at all - the car hasn't been acting all squirrely, and it's only on acceleration - cornering, straightline cruising is fine. Am I on the right track?
  5. Bump because I know someone here has something to say! On another forum, the driveshaft has been mentioned as a source of vibration. And that Subaru driveshafts can't be re-balanced, so it's replacement. ?
  6. Dredging up an old post. My GT came with the standard subaru remote locking feature, but the control module has been unplugged, and the remote that came with it is crushed and pretty beat up. There are a bunch of auctions on ebay for Subaru remote fobs, can I buy them and use them with my car? Is there any programming that needs to be done? Theoretically I should be able to plug the module back in and be good to go, right?
  7. Hey team Need some help. 1998 Legacy GT w/ 4EAT, 168,000 miles 2.5L The car is running pretty well at the moment, a little rich (suspect a new O2 sensor). My problem is that I have a wee bit of drivetrain vibration going on - usually from 1000 - 2500rpm, under acceleration and general driving. Sitting in the driver's seat, it feels like the car is "wagging" it's tail. Once I reach 60mph it's totally gone (the revs are on 2600rpm). What could it be? Torque convertor? Shagged AT? Loose or worn engine & transmission mounts?
  8. bigger turbo, injectors, fuel pump, engine management and exhaust system. Cost could be as huge as you want, but you will sacrifice your warranty... You could just chuck a 50hp of N20 in there, much less cost, and you theoretically attain your 300hp... Then again, you could just sell the Legacy and get an STI.
  9. Mine certainly shifts hard - but it depends on the load. Sometimes if there's a load on the car it shifts smoother than if it was just me. It's almost like the car WANTS to launch!
  10. Here's a link to a page that shows you where the valve is on an Impreza, it may be in a similar place for you. http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/modifications/drivetrain/pcv/pcv.html
  11. That's a good point about the space saver wheel...however the owner's manual does highlight that you can tow with the front wheels off the ground, though only for short distances. I've always had a tow (twice) by flatbed only. It's safer too.
  12. Not too sure on the earlier models, but on late 90s cars the FWD fuse is either in the fusebox in the engine bay, OR it's up by the passenger side on the firewall (behind the brake booster). IIRC, adding the fuse makes it FWD (and should ONLY be used for towing purposes to allow the rear wheels to free-roll). It should never be used on a permanent basis.
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