gunslinger

im 5 minutes away. let me know and ill meet you. we can get shelby dirty.

the diesel trick works great. ive done it to two toyotas before i did it to both my first subarus. the first toyota i did this to had 297K on it and i had to pull the pan after the 2nd round of treatment because so much crap came down, it wouldnt come through the drain hole!! after i pulled the pan and scraped it all out, i filled up a pop can with the top cut off with all the crap that came out!! you dont fill up with diesel though. in a 4 - 5 quart system such as a subie, you do this mixture: - 1 quart oil, not synthetic - 2 quarts diesel - 1 quart ATF - top off whats left with oil diesel is a cleaner that will do the most work breaking down all the gunk. the ATF is considered a "conditioner". dont worry about the diesel breaking down any rubber parts in the engine. because (1) as far as i know, there isnt any rubber where the oil gets to and (2) the diesel isnt in there long enough to do any damage. start it up and idle it for about 10 to 15 minutes. drain your oil and check out all the crap that comes out. sometimes you WILL have to poke a hole in it to get it out - especially since most of us have rigs that have 170K + on them and they arent exactly driven in the most desirable curcumstances. repeat process as many times as you think it takes till the mixture looks semi clean. fill the engine back up with oil. i recommend synthetic. synthetic oils FAR outperform their natural counterparts. dont worry about the oil pickup. the diesel does a pretty good job of breaking down the deposits. all this comes from my own experience of doing this and initially came from a good friend of mine that owned a small oil additive company and is a mechanical engineer. i would recomend this trick to anyone that would like to keep the internals of their motor clean. ive done it and it works great! :)

you cant or more importantly shouldnt weld struts. reason #1 - you WILL boil the oil. reason #2 - said oil MIGHT burst the strut body spraying said welders face with boiling hot oil causing 3rd degree burns and much high pitched screaming. reason #3 - strut bodies have printed on them - "DO NOT HEAT". maybe this should have been reason #1 reason #4 - i have tried welding struts. i ruined a brand new PAP strut in the lift R&D stage. worked fantastic when i got it home from PAP, didnt work at all after welding. cooked the oil. hence the conclusion. all in all. spend the money on a lift. or make one.

im pretty sure that Zapar isnt talking about the white colored "overspray" around the FACE of the rim. i would have to say that hes probably talking about the very, very, ..... very, VERY edge of the rim. the outermost portion that you chip on rocks and that the tire machine rides on - if you have ever watched them mount your tires at Les Slob. hes right, get that sprayed, youll see it if you dont. oh, and DO NOT get - cough GAY cough - "beauty" rings on your hatch to go in the mud with. if youre considering anything with the term "beauty" in it for your mudder then you might want to consider the honda board next door seeing how they seem to be pretty keen on that shiny stuff. oh, yeah. and im also pretty sure that if you do put beauty rings on your rig, the USMB gremlins will come burn it down. :banana:

never mind. found it. funonwheels. all the know-it-alls can now rest their weary heads.

where would that video be?? i looked for video after i found the pics a while back but didnt find any

(Please keep your language clean, this is a kid friendly site. Thanks, Eric Zap) has anyone seen these pics or happen to know any of the crazy s.o.b.s behind the wheel??!! i thought we were gettin up there when we were getting 6 ft under the wheels. i wouldnt want to be in either of those rigs upon imact. landing at 6 ft was about all my back - and i think the car, could take. any higher and we were walking home from chelan for sure

right. just get the isolator and another battery and wire it up as the directions say. you dont need a bigger alternator, the stocker does fine. ive got dual batteries in the battlewagon and i can run all 8 lights, sterio, full heater and still have enough juice to plug in and power my 12v imaginary friend. of course, i dont run everything all at once really ever. i just did it a bunch when i first hooked it up to see if it could do it. check out the pics of the engine bay mount i made for the second battery.

sounds like its only doing it under load..... maybe its pinging instead of ticking?? try supreme and see if it goes away..... and, yes, seafoam works great. ive used to much success many times. frees STUCK lifters much less quiets noisy ones.

BTW people, i HAVE found where to get the pens online but i only use them when a part is broken and i need to return it but the paint has worn off with installation..... im too paranoid to steal parts anyway because i know that if i steal a wiper fluid resevoir by marking it and taking it back - my motor will blow up and the wiring in the car will catch fire. just to clear things up.

the toyota's coilovers are similar in length for the rear. you have to make totaly different mounts for the top but the bottom virtualy bolts right in. i havent COMPLETELY figured out the front yet. the way the stock strut slides into the hub assembly is baffling me as to how i would mount a bolt in pivoting style bushing mount into a slide in mount. you cant have any movement there and i havent figured it out yet. as far as the rear wheels not being centered in the wheel well once you lift it..... the battlewagon's wheels are way forward with the lift i made. im gonna end up changing it when i make the subframe. if you think about it, you cant get away from that much if you drop the control arms a lot because your pulling the wheel forward on a pivot.

NO, you cant. not the ones they use. believe me. ive tried the ones they have at the craft store.

ditto. they really dont want to be there and you can tell. i wouldnt want to be there much either if i was always dealing with RUDE foreigners and creeps. most guys that roll through there have no business interacting in public. they barely know how. most of the time they cut me off in line too. i can understand the employees attitude. there is one girl there that i deal with most if i can. she usually doesnt charge me for half the stuff that i have. oh, and MAKE SURE you keep reciepts. i have been screwed in the past with just going by the colors. seems they get mixed up sometimes.... maybe i should just go buy the pens they use there.... i found em online...

ive already contacted northwest drivelines (well, their CV division next door....) about making ujoint/splined slip shaft axles and YES, they are spendy. ive got about 12 good stock axles in my garage (that ive been scouring from PAP) that ill happily keep changing for the cash youd spend on 4 custom axles. agreed. ive since gotten rid of the toyota solid axle swap idea that i was contempating due to the fact that i really like the feel and movement of the subaru independant. solid axles DO feel top heavy and bouncy. ive always hated that. im going back to my independant suspension with toyota tacoma coilovers plan.... then again, i might change my mind next week....

holy S**T. 0 to 60 in 3.8 seconds! :eek: i love how it made the guy puke..... AND it even looks like a miny exotic. i seem to have a mint one of those that would be perfect for the conversion..... sigh..... too many depreciating assets/hobbies.