Jugizmo

Picture of valve cover <a href="https://ibb.co/kNG95w"><img src="https://thumb.ibb.co/kNG95w/IMG_20171102_193034236.jpg" alt="IMG_20171102_193034236" border="0"></a>

Ok, havent looked at the last post from Gloyale, gonna try to retard the timming tomorrow first time in the morning For now we have another "houston" problem. The fu#%kr now started to drip Oil from passenger side valve cover bottom screw ( picture attached) . Tried tighten it by hand and it just kept turning, took it out and it came out with the aluminum thread on the bolt....almost shat myself right there at the autoplanet parking lot. There is 2 stripped thread on the passenger side, one tottally loose and dripping Oil Like nuts, the other one still getting some torq, barely. Any band aid fix you guys have? Cold weld? High temp silicone? Longer/wider bolt? Tried with a slimer washer, no luck! Im about to loose it with this specimen but it's hard also not to love it...I mean, it's dripping Oil and pressure on it's ribs and the thing still gets me to the market and back every single time! I guess im Am looking at yet another motor pull to get that side cam restripped or changed....also rear dif gasket decides to went puff on me splashing Oil all over the rear ..awesome! ????

First of all, thank you for such fast responses, and sorry for not been able to get back sooner. As it turns out, i came to chek the timming, twice and thrice, and what do you know...it was bad by two theets on the drivers side cam. Funny thing since i have already cheked that.....the cause for it went bad again is a stripped bolt on one of the belt tensioner thats causing that belt to come loose, and probably under load, it skipped a thoot. i barely got it thight enough and preparing for a 65 mile ride down to town at night with few tools..fingers crossed!! Having that helicoiled tomorrow i hope. The procedure used to adjust the timming and tune the carb could be described as "Going by ear"..as in they didnt use the stroboscopic light for the timmin, and a guy at the exhaust shop messed with the carbing in order for it to pass the emission tests. So most probably not timmed correctly nor advanced correctly , plus belt on drivers side comming loose. Could that alone cause the overheating under load on slope? Radiator specialist is something of a rarity here in rural county, Chile, but im gonna see what i can do/or find. In the meantime, a new thermosthat, and oil dipstick its on its way from U s and A. Is a OEM radiator cap needed, or just an aftermarket new one? As another point of reference, i do not have heating on the inside of the car...there is some heat comming from the feets of the passenger, but y cannot for the love of Jebus get it to fire in any other direction...was planning on attacking that issue later on, but do you guys think i could be somehow related to the engine overheating? thanks again!

I have a really cheap looking aftermarket cap, but it does actually allow the overflow to go up the reservoir when hot. Ill have to take a look at driving without the thermostat Was using medium grade (95 oct) , and filled it up the last time with the cheapest (93 oct) ,Didnt felt much diference in anything except it got hot. The comp on the cilinders was "low-ish" (1)130-(3)145-(2)150-(4)155 . Triying to get the "rebuild again" thing out of my mind....if not...well that would be a bummer. Could the timming advance cause it to run hot, and low on power when going between 2.500 and 3.500 rpm?

Radiator wash "flushed" before install, fins all straight, electric fan working OK. Car felt slugish, from before it started to get warm

Ok Guys, Greetings from Chile. First time Loyale owner, 1989 1.8 ea82, carbed 5 MT /DR. Lots of previous owners, rough life and history. Lets hope any of the Gurus here can lend me a hand. A week after i got it, and without any signs of overheating head gasket on passanger side went off, just sitting iddle on the driveway . From there on it was engine out and rebuild, I have done the following so far: -Full gaskets (Intake, Exhaust, heads, oilpan) -Resurface heads( usual cracks between the valves found, did nothing) -Polished piston cilinders (Cilinder N°3 had a broken ring and was scratched) -New rings -New timming belt kits -"New-ish" valves, couldnt find them brand new arround here ( a couple of the old ones had cracks in their heads, so they had to go) -Helicoil in sparkplug hole #1 and #4. -Helicoil and new studs on exhaust drivers side. -New filters all arround -New heating elements hoses. Oil and water pump havent been touched. Mechanich crash course it has been Took it to the emisison test, and it did not pass. Cilinder 1 was low on compression and running on 3 cilinders. TImming belt was off one tooth, fixed it...still wont pass...but almost. A little tinkering with the carb screws and presto, emission passed, now street legal. Took it on a highway and street test, all seemed fine, smoother than ever, little noise, Kinda torquey! and averaging 29 MPG Life seemed good! Yesterday on the ride home (some 40 miles up the mountains) Hot it went ( outside temp barely 60F)...halway up the road it felt kinda slugish, low on power, always kept it between 2.000 and 3.000 rpm range, and the needle kept creeping its way up, when it reached halfway mark i slowed down on the side of the road and it kep going up until the red zone...started praying and it went down Ha Ha, after that i let it sit, and then cheked all fluids, all was good.oil, coolant, everything... Kept driving her, and then again after a some 10 miles..Temp started going up again everytime a hill was on sight. Intake and exhaust hoses for the radiator, both hot and seem to be flowin ok. So here i am, with a freshly rebuilt ea82 that doesnt seem to wanna stay ...well...fresh nor cold.. Sooo...What could cause it to feel low on power, kinda draggy, and at the same time could cause overheating ? *It is Not, burning oil, drinking coolant, nor dripping in any excess way, there is a small oil leak from the oilpump pulley, and Hidraulic fluid leek from the steering as far as i can see. ** There is a kinda of rattling arround the 3.000 rpm mark, under load, like a tinggling, or bell-like sound.(maybe valve rattling)

Yes! Finally found it! Al 4 positions! I guess I have the dashboard lights disconnected because "Lo" is the only one y see. And the hange between 4wd to fwd is hard, like somehow the lever should go and extra inch down , im thinking maybe some bended linkage could be guilty of that. Any wire I should be looking for to check on the dashboard lights? Should y look on the tranny or behind dash?

Hello Everyone, greetings from South America new to forum posting, long time voyeur. I recently picked up a 89 loyale 4wd ea82 carbed, 5mt dual range in regular body conditions but with a really smooth running engine, not so smooth tranny! My question is, What is the number of positions the 4wd lever should have (curved lever, not the "T" style lever found on brats), and what does its supossed to do on each? As of now i have figured out: 2H N ( should this be a 4 High?. No light at dash)) 4L ( this posittion turns on light at dash) Normal should be? 2h 4high 4low Little info: On purchase chek, i noticed a squirring sound when putting it on 4wd, (first step of lever y assume). Previous owner said it was only the rear diff being dry and that i would just have to pour some oil in it and it will stop making the sound, he offered me a deal, 200 usd of, if i took it like that, v/s regular price if he refilled it and it stopped the sound. Took the gamble, only to later find out that rear diff spins all the time (yikes!) Refilled it and it seemed to work fine! But still, cant find or seem to find how the heck to get it on 4wd High. Looked under the car when doing the oil change, when movin the 4wd lever it posittively made the rod on the transfer move in and out without issues.

My 89 Wagon. It snowed the day we picked it up. 5MT- 4wd D/R transfer( i think, no push button, lever with to positions).