jsyme

yep - the ol' 'fixed-it-by-turning-up-the-radio' trick ..

Wow! 2 bad belts in 2000 miles you say. Squealing like a pig you say. I recently had a belt "explode" on my EA82 non-turbo wagon. While failing it bent up both fan housings, resulting in cut up fan blades, pulled wires out of sensors, and made my bitcoin account crash. I replaced them both with Gates belts ($25 each) and have completely made all pig sounds stop. runs great. Here's what I think. You have a component that isn't free spinning any longer. The bacon factor happens when the belt is moving and the pulley is not. Proper tension is important too. Take all your belts off, free hand spin each pulley except the main crank pulley, and figure out which one is dead. If that isn't it, then it's a pulley alignment issue: To test, take a straight edge yard stick (USA speak) and lay is across all the "V" valleys I checked rock auto and the water pumps seem to be the same between non and turbo EA82. There is the single race and dual race pulley on the alternator. Disclaimer: I don't have the turbo engine so I have no idea what it looks like. I'm just making all this up. A keen eye should be able to detect this problem.

... but that's not your question.. No. I don't know of any good shop in Chicago. Not that they don't exist, it's just I don't live there, or have any opinions about those that do.

hmm... runs well until 15 min. and then repeatable. pressure builds in the fuel system for just a few seconds prior to run, so not likely a fuel filter issue. I'm thinking it is more sputtering at 15 minutes from the Cat converter being plugged. too much pressure, and not enough time. When plugged some exhaust can still escape so low RPMs are ok. Confirmation test: Try staying in 1st gear as fast as your comfortable going and run in highest RPM.. see if it chokes much quicker. Run with the exhaust disconnected at the heads or yoke before the cat.

Don't you mean.. you had to use 3 steelie wheels before you get more alloys?

Deep gouges in the flywheel will just kill the new clutch. It has to be milled or replaced. Make sure the replacement isn't cheaper than the milling fee.

I'm loving the pics and friends to go do things with!

I'm not getting your wrong. Would you say an early 90s (90-94) impreza or legend running the 2.2L has the goods to start a build on?

Well skishop69 You sold me. It's better to spent that life and money in other areas. Thank you for a well reasoned response.

Thanks Gloyale. Hey! I can dream! I'm not drifting in FWD btw. I gotta red button and I'm using it. What year Nissan 240SX?

1992 Subaru Loyale wagon FWD has cabled E-brake to the front wheels. I'd like to install Dual brake calipers on the Rear for use with a Hydraulic E brake Please offer a parts list of what would be needed. I suspect XT6 or GL-10 turbo parts, but there may be another maker out there that are compatible. I currently have 4x140MM stock 13" rims but I am primed to go to 6-lug 15" wheels and rubber at any time. I'd like to go hydro e-brake instead of cable for the rears. Thoughts? pro and con.

What car is it?

A good price is what the buyer and the seller agree is a good price. There is always a conflict of interest: buyers want the lowest cost and highest value, and sellers want the highest cost least inconvenience. Pugs rims are rare. You know what they are, and so does he. If you were going to buy brand new rims of the shelf, what would that cost you? Don't let the fear of loss pressure you to purchase for too high a price. The rims aren't going anywhere. You'll inevitably have to answer the question.. "YOU DID WHAT?..." to your significant other. They are wheels not food.

Is it the heat shield over the cat rattling?

for newer Subies: For drops less than 2" inclusive it will not require an extension. use the default oem EA82 steering knuckle. For drops over 2" it will require an extension, either make/weld your own, or find a early 90s Legacy with a compatible part. Provision.. I haven't done it yet. Someone else needs to come in here and confirm. link to another related: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/164029-suggested-material-to-use-for-extending-steering-shaft/?hl=lift

I've researched this too and am collecting / building parts to do the job all at once. (Recall that my car was recently re-ended and I'm working through insurance to see what will happen there.) I believe that the steering knuckle is only required when you over 2"+ lift.

Story time Aug 04 2017 Two friends went to Subway for a Friday lunch, but on the way they stopped at a red light behind a Subaru WRX and a motorcycle (all in the right lane). When the light turned green the left lane went on through the intersection safely, but in our lane the WRX continued surfing on his phone looking down and completely oblivious and more importantly to this story: stopped. Right about the same time it would be appropriate to lean on the horn to get his attention, Mr Blue Camry, who's driver is still suffering from the flu for 3 days, decides to proceed through the intersection as well, except I'm sitting stopped in front of him. SMASH Research afterwards looks like the collision was probably only 12-15 miles per hour. Mr. Blue Camry driver admitted afterward he hit the gas after hitting me instead of the break. The impact(s) pushed me into the motorcycle ahead of me. Physically no one was hurt. yes we're all shaken pretty good. no police, no ambulance. All the police reports and insurance claims have changed hands appropriately. The damage: The Motorcycle: rear fender folded under itself pinching the tire stopped. Repaired by hand at the scene so he could roll home. Mr Blue Camry: no detectable damage to front bumper cover... nothing. 1992 Loyale Front bumper: The pic will show my 1989 GL front bumper for the detail oriented. Actually the turn signal was already "loose" before the accident. 1992 Loyale rear bumper: completely crushed but more so on the passenger side. 1992 Loyale wagon bed: the smuggler’s door hinges are bent and misaligned. Crumpled metal. The hatch latch no longer aligns up with the hatch lock. 1992 Loyale exhaust: bent at the muffler? bent at the cat mount? bent at the exhaust manifold. It wasn't hard enough of an impact to break the wagon door glass. It didn't crush the passenger side brake light housing The interior hatch cover clips are broken so it hangs down on the drivers side when open. The driver seat does not stand up, broken tooth or equivalent damage, it's more of a low-rider feel setting. The major rub is that the hatch door no longer latches. It's heavy enough not to open while driving, but the car is convinced that the interior lights need to stay on all the time. The dash says "HEY your rear hatch is open." Hey Hey Hey Eventually, I'll get under there and find the fuse the run the interior lights and pull that out. You may recall I have some substantial LED light inside that LIGHT UP THE NIGHT. I remove the ground cable from the battery every time I exit the vehicle to save it. Pictures to follow after all the terrible rain...

R12 is superior to R134a in every way but cost. I have a 1989 GL wagon with 28 oz of R12 freon still in it. <not proven> http://www.techchoiceparts.com/refrigerant-and-oil-capacities/subaru Is it worth it to sell it to a local mechanic who still work with R12? If so what's a fair price? I read this article from the US EPA, God bless them, here: https://www.epa.gov/section608/section-608-technician-certification = lots of new rules come Jan 1 2018 thoughts? comments? ... and go!

Agreed: How did we get from no fuel pressure to spark plug wires to R134A? your problem statement totally changed.

I noticed Jareth hasn't replied here. Sorry to come across so heavy.

Before GD says it.. it's a dead platform. get a early 90's 2.2L Legacy or Impreza

So don't give up. There is a relay that controls the fuel pump under the driver side dash. you should hear or feel it click under ignition. The hot wire runs to the pump and then it's chassis grounded. Consider running a hot wire from say a tail light <no sparking allowed here> and see if it will spin. Prove to yourself that the pump is functional by itself. 2 people / While starting key ignition, Maybe tap it with a hammer to get it to spin. <if this works your pump is in the sunset of it's life anyway> replace it. The pump needs fuel to cool itself so be careful if you remove it from the car and run it on 12v, but it's worth a test. The thing is a jet turbine engine and is VERY sensitive to debris, dust, goop. There is a fuse under the dash that drives it too. Since you took the engine out - are you sure for SURE that all your grounds are well 'grounded'? no rusty connections 12 volt at your battery? Someone mentioned fuel in the tank already... Make sure there are no pinched rubber hoses anywhere

I have a Daily driver EA82 and a spare EA82 taking way too much space in my garage. RUST bucket. Auto recycler's inventories are trending WAY too low from 10 cars readily available down to now only one. I plan to take the best of that spare car and send it on it's way to the crusher. D/R trans, axles etc... I'm not worried about glass. I am more concerned about... oil pumps, engine temp sensors, rare and hard things to find: oh that and GD coming in here telling me it's a dead platform. Anyway for storage, instead of my garage, I intend to move said important parts to a stainless steel rack (still in my garage but much smaller) There are no XT6 in the area at all.