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Interesting.. I'm unfamiliar with the XT6/ER27. I did some research and here is a thumbnail of it... This stood out the most to me: The valve timing system is belt-drive using two individual timing belts, curiously one belt uses a spring tensioner (like the EA82) whilst the other uses a hydraulic tensioner (like the EJ22). Reference: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EA_engine#ER27 ER27 Subaru ER engine Manufacturer Subaru Production 1988–1991 Combustion chamber Configuration flat-6 petrol engine Displacement 2.7 L (2672 cc) Cylinder bore 92 mm Piston stroke 67 mm Cylinder block alloy aluminium Cylinder head alloy aluminium Valvetrain SOHC Combustion Fuel type Petrol/gasoline Power output 112 kW (150 hp) Chronology Successor Subaru EG engine The ER series is a flat-6 engine with a displacement of 2.7L manufactured by Subaru, a division of Fuji Heavy Industries. The ER series has aluminium engine blocks and aluminium cylinder heads. It is found on the 1988-1991 Subaru Alcyone VX (XT-6 in the United States). Created as a refined luxury engine with improved power over the EA82T, Subaru introduced the ER series engine in 1988 exclusively to be featured in the Subaru Alcyone VX. Like the EA series engines, the ER series engine featured 2-valve cylinder heads with hydraulic lash adjusters and the block shared the same bore and stroke. While recognised as bearing many similarities to the Subaru EA82 engine, there are numerous differences in design between the two engines and a large portion of parts are unique to the ER27. The oil and water pumps are unique to the ER27, sharing similar bolt patterns and design to the EA82, but being of a higher flow in both cases.[3] The intake manifold uses a two piece design with a lower section bolting to the heads containing the coolant bridge, injectors and various vacuum lines. The upper intake manifold then bolts to the lower section and is unlike the EA82 or EJ22 "spider" manifold designs in that there is no central plenum chamber. The valve timing system is belt-drive using two individual timing belts, curiously one belt uses a spring tensioner (like the EA82) whilst the other uses a hydraulic tensioner (like the EJ22). Both JDM and USDM versions of the ER27 used multi-point electronic fuel injection. The ER27 designation was the first time Subaru incorporated the engine's displacement into the series name and all future engines have retained this nomenclature.

I'm still trying to keep it simple... Take off the air box and spray in some starter fluid? Does it run longer than 3 seconds? can you keep it running by spraying in starter fluid? <don't get crazy with it> What else haven't you told us you've done to it?

Right? The fun of the hunt stops when you pull the trigger. Then it's just work. I finally speared my own 15" rims from a boar named 91 Isuzu Trooper: a 6 lug conversion where I intend to drill the hubs- not the hoofs. Now I'm rooting for reliable information on how much lift I need to not have to tusk-up the fenders. Four wheels and tires 235-70R15 for $40 in bacon... Next I'll have to spin those piglets with a 2.2L power plant, not yet acquired. Then I can truly ham it up, cause up 'til now it'll just a porker.

1992 EA82 with O'Reilly Auto Parts replacement .. 2 pics coming up: Looking from top down with and without covers

Plugged fuel filter? poor fuel pump pressure? bad gas?

Well today is the day! I've been waiting for quite some time to get bigger wheels. They are hard to come by because it seems that UPAP want to weld these bad boys together for car stands and everything else is the wrong size. Craigslist: Today they come with old shoes but they are from a 1991 Isuzu Trooper. 6 lug 5.5 inch or 139.7mm 15" rims 15x7 108 3.50" back spacing They are rusty but true. A little wirebrush and some paint will bring these bad biys back to life They are in my price range at $40 for all 4!

Mazel Tov! You're excitement is contagious! I have the same goals, and I have the 1992 version of that same car: silver Loyale. Single-Range MT transmission and 230,000 miles. * I just upgraded the interior lights and experienced a SIGNIFICANT IMPROVEMENT using LED strip across the back, and LED in newly installed map light section (not there by USA default Loyales) and LED in the top central dome. You'll love it. I recommend setting the rear light strip to only be on with an open door, but keep the central dome light selectable anytime. * I found I can carry two mountain bikes inside but lose 3 seat for butts doing so. I want to install a hitch to get the bikes outside. I've almost given up hope of finding one in the recycled parts yards, and am considering making one. * I still have the default 1.8L with plans to make it a 2.2L from either a 1995 imprezza or legacy "mechanic special" + "your loss is my gain" or "accident" or "wreck". I usually carry a LOT of band equipment and when fully loaded with total 3 people, and one seat pushed down and loaded to the top, it just doesn't have the torque to push up even for steap highway offramps, let alone off road traveling. If I were to install a roof basket and load even more stuff, it would be worse. It really needs the 2.2L for any long distance traveling with gear. But as my A to B car to go to work and back EMPTY it does just fine. I have found I get low 20 mpg on the highway, running empty, but I drive it hard @ 75 and 4000 RPM in 5th. * I already replaced the alternator with the OEM 55 or 60 AM (I forget) alternator, but wished I had gone for the upgraded one 90 Amp Nissan Maxima, but when I do this one will be the spare that will go with me everywhere. I learned that the black engine fuse under the hood is rated for 80AMp however. * Prior to me owning it sat broken for 3 years, and so yes I had to replace the fuel pump. $200 new, $20 used, and I learned that Ford has one that will work as well for $60. I say "Have a spare". * This is right place (forum) to be for knowledge about this car. * I considered putting large speakers in the hatch itself. I have found that there is little reinforment in that plastic cover so when you install your speaker you'll have to fabricate mount points. There is however plenty of room in the headliner for running cables, but a tight squeeze through the hatch rubber gromet. I replaced my hatch pistons and they are plenty strong enough to hold up a few more pounds of speaker equipment. I'm looking to install a CB as well, because why not? * You've already noticed that the rear doors don't have the cut out for speakers, but know this: the speaker wire is already installed! NICE! When installing your speakers, build a nylong ring or use plastic washers to make sure the speakers don't ground against the door metal and they sound great! If you want the "housing" search for a late 80's GL without water damage and they clip right into your loyale. with water damaage the "cardboard" pressed wood shape deteriorates and just falls apart. Check the specs with Crutchfiled.com and tell them you have a 1989 GL wagon. * If you're serious about taking that Alaska trip, be sure to do the timing belts yourself in your garage with no time pressure. It's not difficult but it is very specific. Once you're done and it starts and runs. Do it again. You don't have to use new parts, just make sure you know to do it well enough that you could explain it over the phone to someone who hasn't done it. When you can teach it, you know it. For example, I've opted to run both my cars without their timing belt covers on., tell me why I'm right and why I'm wrong. Actually have an opinion. Consider access to water and oil pumps in your answer. * I'm a huge fan of the jumper box for a "spare battery" on long trips, but these days I've (pun intended) jumped to the high capitor emergency car starter simply due to size. I don't have this model exactly, and I'm no agent for Wal-Mart, but this what I'm talking about. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Black-Yellow-Portable-68800mAh-4-USB-Car-Jump-Starter-Booster-Power-Bank-Battery-TM15A/388629380 * If there is one more thing you haven't addressed it's the front headlights / fogs. I WANT to upgrade to LEDs and am now looking into how and where to source parts. Compared to my other modern cars, these don't have front head-lights at all. * I have no opinion on your $1500 budget. I'm poor and patient. I keep RSS feeds watching craigslist, and even today I'm hoping to pick up 4 rims and tires for $40. I've been waiting for this deal for over 6 months. I meet him after work for 1991 Isuzu Rodeo rims. woot!

Painful. My first take is spark plugs or engine "missing" as in a timing miss. Maybe it's not timed correctly for your elevation. Mark it, Loosen and adjust the distributor and see if it improves at idle going +/- 15 degrees and then return it to your mark. Next check all your spark plugs. Have they ever been replaced? are they missing ceramic on the plug itself? Next consider replacing the spark plug wires themselves, there should be 5 1 to the coil, and one to each spark plug. was one loose anywhere? is your distributor cracked or corroded beyond recognition inside? A new cap and rotor are easy to do and will make a substantial difference! Get some emery cloth and clean up all 5 contacts and then put it in your emergency car parts with the car so when you're stuck you have one with which to limp back to town. Next maybe a plugged fuel filter - easy to swap. Location: Right on top of the USA driver side strut tower - black inline filter about half the size of a coke can. Let me know when it purrs again. I'd like to know.

This was my symptom as well and I determined that the AC belt was too loose. tighten it up boss. Oh never mind. I have a 92 Loyale wagon not legacy - disregard.

After Jury duty this week, I chanced to have time to pick up a water pump belt pulley after mine destroyed itself. <the pump bearing failed in a most dramatic way> This is not something that O'Reilly Auto Parts stocks on a regular basis. UPAP usually has about five to ten 1985-94 Subarus in their yard, and I found those were all gone with only two "new participants" remaining: a 198x beat-to-hell BRAT (it was abused) and a near unmolested 1989 DL wagon SFI, sans front bumper. 120,000 miles. 5-Speed Manual 4x4 on the stick. Roll up windows. I grabbed the engine fuses and the water pump pulley. I'm sure this has everything to do with the cost of cars per ton coming back up from zero. Interesting thing was that it had cruise control where my "automatic mirrors control panel is on the dash for my loyale. Link to the car search while it's still posted. https://upullandpay.com/colorado-springs/search-inventory/?Make=Subaru&Model=L%20Line https://upullandpay.com/colorado-springs/search-inventory/?Make=Subaru&Model=Brat I suspect I'll go back and get the fuel pump, radiator, and maybe the 4 axles for my project(s), but I'd be willing to get the cruise control for someone else. <the cruise control module on the front dash, not the wiring harness, computer, aux crap all over the engine, wheel sensors etc..> pic:

Hey team - I've got a 1992 Loyale going up with a lift and a local seller here with five FJ60 wheels. I'm strongly considering buying his wheels. Thoughts? 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60 & FJ62 15" rims 31 x 10.5 x r15 tires the tires are toast but I can work with the rims

Letter909, How did the alloys from an Isuzu trooper work out for you? I'm curious about inside fender rub, tire size you chose, and if you have a lift. Would you do it again? thanks in advance.

I just fixed this on my car and it wasn't the window motor it was the switch. If you have a power probe it gets real easy: ground one side power the other, or reverse. (I understand you're traveling and don't have access to tools.)

Though it has been answered already...I went through the effort to look, so I can respond with the following: black, green, red, green I went to the recycling yard and grabbed all 4 of them as spares.

Where is water coming from? Answer: It's already in your fuel tank. Your tank is pumping fuel and water into your carb. Get the yellow bottle of HEET which is methanol. It will dry out your fuel tank and prevent water from going into the bowl in the carb. get the red bottle of HEET and it's 100% isopropyl alcohol and will remove EVEN more water from the lines. You usually only use one bottle or the other and it safe for your car. You learn this when making biodiesel. water in bioD is bad. iso-HEET link: https://www.goldeagle.com/product/iso-heet-fuel-line-antifreeze-injector-cleaner HEET: link https://www.goldeagle.com/product/heet-gas-line-antifreeze-water-remover Tip: * Find stations that have ethanol in the fuel mix and will help absorb the water. ethanol and methanol have similar properties * Keep your fuel tank full so there is no air to deliver moisture * don't give up.

Here is where I got mine: Search for T10 LED for the map light plug style. Amazon Map lights. $6.99 for 20 of them: XT AUTO 20pcs Super White T10 Wedge 5-SMD 5050 LED Light bulbs W5W 2825 158 192 168 194 for Car Boot Trunk Map Light Number Plate License Light https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0156WMPCW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 eBay Dome Lights: qty: 10 of the T10 and then there are the qty: 10 of the 31MM 9 LED festoon blades. I suspect they will have 12x chips on them available now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/20X-31MM-Festoon-T10-LED-License-plate-Map-Dome-Interior-Light-Bulbs-White-/231797975696?hash=item35f83c6a90 I got my LED strips from here: https://www.superbrightleds.com/

You asked why I replaced my water pump and on what car? 1992 Silver Subaru Loyale wagon 5-speed 4WD S/R EA82 1.8L stock 204,000 Miles What happened? the water pump CATASTROPHICALLY failed! i.e The bearing(s) died inside the pump and wobbled so bad that the water pump pulley was hitting the belt tensioner and crank shaft pulley and the fan blades were carving the fins on the back of the radiator. It sounded like three metal Tonka toys inside a rotating steel 55 gallon drum. Now fixed. It's quieter, I feel the rattle in the stick-shift less, and it drives down the road cooler; no more belt squeal when the AC/s kicks in.

I love it! "Hot on the highway = water flow problem, hot in the driveway = airflow problem. " I'm keeping this handy. I'm thinking the fluid itself is old or too diluted. 50/50 Radiator fluid can transfer heat better than pure water. This may be as easy as a coolant flush. It's well known that in "the sticks" <your location> there are plenty of bugs around this time of year. Your radiator may just be plugged with grasshoppers. ewww. Activity: I just replaced a failed water pump in my car last weekend, and it has made ALL the difference. Historically, where running down the interstate at 80 mph, the temp meter would hover in the 50% mark on the dial, after the pump and fluid replacement, it now only cooks at ~34% temp on the gauge... just a thought. 8 hours and $65 later....

Hello SmokeyTheGL and welcome to the forums. I would LOVE! LOVE! LOVE! to put a diesel in my car! However, The aforementioned EJ swap, or the EA82Turbo is the right answer to keep motor mounts and radiators in the same place. Moderate to Heavy Subaru modifications are required for this swap to Diesel. Parts costs in Colorado Springs for diesels are still outrageous and their owners are still too proud of them. Anything with a German name stamped on it is two to four times more expensive then locally sourced parts. They can keep 'em. Personally I have this exact same car and I intend to do a EJ2.2L from a donor car once available. I keep my eyes peeled for a "mechanic special" or wrecked or "rear end damage" in the classifieds/craigslist. The 1979 VW Rabbit had two motors available: the gas and diesel, the gas engine producing 95hp and the 1.6L making all of 45 hp but a truck load of torque. This is not the Jetta TDI as you know. One maybe better choice would be to just drop in the GL-10 turbo EA82 into the same car. It'll twist the wheels right off too. In either case, EA82T or EJ2.0 or EJ2.2 the clutch is the weak link and should be using the XT6 stock clutch to handle the extra twist. Research this forum for all the specs and look for these folks: <incomplete list> numbchux: -Matt “Chux” Alexander, bumblebeast Summary: If you want a cheap to drive great little car keep the diesel Rabbit and keep it alive another 30 years and give it your son.

Hello Friends! re: 1992 Loyale 4WD stock manual S/R H1.8 So, I went with the idea of swapping out all the lights in my dash per Bumblebeast and ended up replacing ALL the interior lights with LEDS. I love it so much in the dash of the loyale, I installed them in my 1989 GL wagon and two other non-Subaru cars as well. My brother-in-Law is a full time Mechanic and he's going to start installing them in his customer cars as a bonus for doing business with him. Even after all that my Loyale is still terribly dark at night... because there is only ONE dome light. How many dome lights? Oh, ONE! Solution: Last year I went to the local scrap yard and picked the map reader light console from a 88 GL and I cut a template hole in the headliner perfectly in my loyale, but alas, no wires. I read somewhere on this forum that the 92 still has the wiring harness but it's down low in the A-frame somewhere. I didn't mess with it. time passes. A few days ago a good friend of mine gave me stretch of LED lights in a strip to help improve the dark cabin, especially the wagon section and WOW DID IT HELP to get me motivated to run power up there. I ended up running power from the central dome light both to the front map-readers AND the rear strip and it lights up the night! It is WAYYY too bright. (a better problem than too dark.) I configured the wiring so that it turns on the same time the dome light comes on. example: either with the dome switch, or when a door is opened. And my front map readers come on whenever either map button is depressed on/off manually. here's a pic. before and after at dusk.

I seem to lose those in the tongue of my shoe so I just started looking there first. That and a magnet bowl... and bright lights and clean floor and I might have a chance to find 'em.

I would guess a plugged air filter - really bad silty sand.. or more probably a plugged catalytic converter. Let us know when you find out.

I'm in Colorado, but that's way North of me... I'll keep my eyes open.

Good on you for getting it done! You're ahead of me, as that lift is on my to-do list, instead of my to-done list.