jsyme

Beautiful car! I have found that on my two cars (8 wheel wells) 2 of the worst front fender's rust started from the rubber strip (grommet) designed to protect the inner edge sheet metal. The round section. I've removed that rubber strip, sanded and painted in hopes if curbing the rust issues. I have yet to see a successful fender recovery without earnest welding or 'bondo' efforts. - maybe a different thread for this.

I've done this recently. The trick is to loosen and turn the “white-ish/cream colored” lock ring (1/2 turn? 1/3 turn? ), and then pull straight back from the bulb. The heavier gauge connector should show you what you’re really pulling on, or a general diameter of the bulb itself. If it still won’t come out gently rock it back and forth until it gives and it should come out pretty easy Maybe a previous mechanic “water sealed” the joint with a compound and that would add significant difficulty. I’d give my first effort on the driver side with the battery removed to give you the most working room. Then give it a go with the passenger side bulb. You can do it.

Update: So this is embarrassing but I'm past it now and you can learn from it too, (if not, just enjoy a free chuckle). The pump is doing quite well after a good friend got a look at it and returned a stink eye to me. What he observed was too short a hose leading to a kink on the inward low pressure side of the pump. -sigh- I added another foot of fuel line to make effectively a service loop around the top of the pump and back into the inward side. Now there is plenty of slack without any kinks in the line, and it's routed where nothing could grab it from road debris perspective, and the pump is MUCH quieter. MUCH QUIETER! 204,000 miles. I expect to replace it again @ 400,000 miles. Thanks to everyone who read though this and commented.

I'm teasing the idea myself. I hope you go for it! I have a family of 6, with 4 teens and I'm standardizing on the L-line for the kids... If they want something nicer, newer, more expensive, with a loan, they can shoulder it themselves. Just as LittleLoyaleMan asked for a good set of links, I'm watching this as well. pics pics pics

Thanks DaveT and Jonh in KY! My wife voiced her opinion (positive) about liking 4EAT transmissions today. I was unaware of both. I'll take extra precautions about the coolant requirements. Is there a known crossover from a larger radiator that fits the GL?

I think you should look for a donor car EJ22 to make sure you get all the wiring hardness and connectors possible. I have few in front of me CL where $200 car rear-end wrecked, runs and drives. This is a larger project than you might think for a newb mechanic with limited tools and experience. Go in with a buddy to keep each other motivated when you hit obstacles. especially the more expensive ones...

Ok team, Sell me on 'to buy' or 'not to buy'. I need some reliable wheels for my wife after our recent hail storm totaled our commuter cars. I presently own a 1991 Loyale 5-speed manual wagon 4WD in really good shape, and a 1989 GL 5-speed manual wagon 4WD /w lo in really rough shape, and I'm considering this "1988 Subaru GL-10 Automatic Turbo full time 4WD wagon w/ sun roof and roof rack" that just appears on CL in Colorado. We can all drive a stick just fine, but this one appeared as an auto... ok, it's less desirable, but we can work around it. * I love not having automatic seat belts like the 91 loyale is equipped. * I'm HUGELY adverse to rust and I'll be doing a complete review before I make an offer. How easy are these to convert to 5-speed manuals with 4 lo trans and diff, computer and cables? Do the turbo fail and hard are they to replace? Does just having the turbo installed make it less reliable generally? I've read negative reviews so far. Buy it? walk? Give me some options please. The price is reasonable for the year and it comes with a spare stripped H-4 engine - sitting in the trunk.

... and you'll certainly want a hose clamp for the fuel tank side for sure. on the high pressure side you'll lose maybe about a coffee cup worth of fuel if you don't clamp it.

Hello Rambo, Take a 10mm wrench or shallow socket and a flat head screw driver for the hose clamp. It's a very easy swap, and yes they are completely interchangeable with sizes, space and pressures. The hardest part will be taking the old hoses off.

Well, that is less desirable. I'd prefer to keep it a fully functional 4x4 with seat belts and carpet. I get the concept though, saw off all the doors and the roof, chuck the spare(s), hood, fenders, seats, dash etc.. and install a bi-cycle frame for stearing and shifting and just wear a hat in the rain. Boom! 50 mpg. awesome!

I have two of these exact cars in the form of a 1991 Loyale wagon and an 1989 GL wagon both with the non-turbo H4 EA82 engine. I've most recently been under my 89 GL and have removed both fans in the last week replacing the timing belts. There two fans, one electrical and one mechanical. My 91 is down in the parking lot and I can easily get a picture. I can tell you from the 89 GL there are two plugs right beside each other: a tan/light brown one, and a blue one. Starting at the fan, the wire moves down, and then stretches to the left (passenger side) and then back up alongside the radiator. They were old and brittle and I didn't spend much time fiddling with them. I believe it was the blue one for the fan. Test it by turning on the air conditioner, and use your Power probe or voltage tester / test light to check for voltage there. the fan always comes on with the AC switch. The brown/tan on was for ??something else - I didn't look. Somebody check me on the colors please. I'm still going through the 89 GL and it's not clean yet. Another option is that's been ripped out of your harness by an unknown party, road debris, previous customization, etc.. So forget the hardness, and set up a fuse, relay and interior switch and turn it on manually just like you would for say a light bar or spots. I can hear the frustration in your voice. But since 'luck' doesn't exist, I'm not sure how to measure it good or bad. I didn't see 'please' anywhere in there. This is a free site and your entitlement attitude is less appealing to me. In the balance of givers and takers, How many pictures have you uploaded? Did you know that the admins here only allow for a small number of photo to be uploaded by the "free" customers (of which I am one, but I'm strongly considering upping my participation)? Did you know it actually COSTS money to upload photos over that small initial threshold? ...So to use a line from Seinfeld the 'soup nazi'. "No PIC for you! Back of line!"

* 2 bottles of seafoam have been run through it - that helped the 'knock of death' feels. My best friend is a mechanic and he says... just run a quart of red ATF transmission fluid through it the same way. Why? Well because it has excellent detergent properties and costs a lot less. I'll do that next time. * I intend to replace the oil pump mickey mouse gasket soon. It knocks rough, and I believe this is the true source of the rattle. * cleaned air cleaner. it was lightly dusty. * replaced fuel filter * replaced fuel pump. the original one died. The new Ford Fuel pump is stupid loud but it has much better pressure. I wouldn't recommend doing it. It's LOUD.... new test: I confirmed that my 15.9 gallons will push me 352 miles. I drove it till dry. = 22.13 mpg * The amber fuel alert light DOESN'T light up EVER! I only replaced the T10 bulbs in my instrument cluster, and the 'fuel empty' light is a T5 bulb so I left it there. I didn't even realize it was a thing until the I replaced all the Light bulbs for T10 LEDs in my new 1989 GL wagon instrument cluster. Hey look at that! * I'm at 7000 ft here in Colorado Springs, and all the pumps in town run 10% ethanol in all gasoline products. * Maybe it's out of time by a tooth? * maybe the distributor can be adjusted to help it. it doesn't smell rich but... ? * Top speed is 80 mph @ 4000 rpm in 5th gear (a friend told me because I would never go 5 over the highway speed limit) * It makes up for not having any torque at low RPM, by also not having any HP at high RPMs.. he he * The recent severe hail damage (20-25 minutes of golf balls.) totaled 2 other cars, but since this car only has Liability insurance, I'm sure this is a dramatic improvement to wind drag and therefore an improvement to fuel efficiency as per the evidence shown by Myth-busters. My hood looks like a metal representation of a newly plowed field ready for seeding... beets or hammers. Now 203,700 miles on it ... hmm

I have a 1989 GL wagon DL 5speed with a green dash USA

Wow a 1980 DL with a push to start button. I found a Prius start button at RockAuto for $141 USD link for reference: I bought a non runing 1989 GL wagon last week for $200 USD no... but practically now, I took the tumblers out of my Honda Odyssey ignition, I think there were 6 and I took 4 out and it made a world of difference. i.e. the key worked again. It's better than a screw driver stabbed in the column.

Wow this was excellent. Summary from this thread: EA82 Timing Belts are rated for 60,000 miles / 97,000 KM verify no broken axel boots verify heat and AC functional and no smells 7 hoses in the cooling system check / and or replace Automatics are less desirable than the 5 speed manual, less desirable than the DL 5 speed amual I have a non running 1989 GL EA82 Wagon w/ 230,000 miles (I haven't owned a week yet), that I replaced the 2 timing belts. The longer belt on the driver's side was missing a stretch of teeth as wide as your hand. I'm getting through it.

I have done this to my 1991 Loyale wagon and I love it. (only the T10 bulbs at this time) qty: 6x T10 and 1x T5 total in the cluster. I was surprised to find that after I removed the green cover from the bulb and reinserted the LEDs (yes they are directional) when the Lights are on, the cluster is still very green. It's white during the day time (no lights on). I jsut bought an 1989 GL and I haven't opened the cluster yet. I still need to make it run first.

Last night I picked up a used 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 4wd and it is ROUGH! ... How Rough is it? ... crispy potato chips on top of every door panel begins to describe the interior - what was rubberized plastic moldings. The driver seat looks like a tank ran over a prius and then folded it into this chair! 230,000 miles on the odo. 23,000 burrito farts in the interior The timing belts are broken, so it won't start. starter fluid means nothing! There was a baseball-sided wasp nest in the driver sided rear quarter panel - revealed whe I opene the floor cover. Both front Fenders are rusted down to the bone : There is absolutly no structure rust at all, but the fenders look like metal termites got into them and the rear door. All that and I am so excited to get into this car! My daily driver is now a 1991 Loyale and seeing what the 1987 GL offers with that lever on the floor that has a 4 LO! Woot! It's nice to have electric windows, EXCEPT when they don't work. Even with my well-charged battery the "new" GL front-passenger Windows was very unhappy to "roll up" and I wish I could have just grabbed the window handle. -Jeff.

RESULTS: I took some time today to talk to the guys down at NAPA parts... All the generic pumps were very low pressure in the $45/each price point. I bought a Ford Fuel Pump for $77 local and a few fittings (reducer) since the in and out ports didn't match the Subaru OEM pump. Additionally it took way too much time to assemble the wiring harness (unsolder the old and connect to ring / eyelet for $100 out the door with hose clamps hose pinchers and 1 ft of high pressure hose... I didn't go in asking for this model - only an equivalent to the Subaru OEM pump. 1987 Ford F150 V8 was my request. They came back with a Delphi FD0029 / CFD0029 / 11616-1 specs: http://www.opticatonline.com/part/delphi-fd0029-electric-fuel-pump There is a lot of misinformation saying these wagons only need 2.5lbs/in of pressure. Probably for the carberated weber version. So it was a conversation to have Napa check a few different places to find the correct high pressure pump (or equivalent) it nearly 45 lbs to be correct. The OEM Subaru part has a right angle for hoses and everything is out of the way for hose lengths. The new Ford pump does not have a right angle and it makes it quite too long installed in the car. Good = the car is back up and running. Yah! BAD = the pump is STUPID LOUD! Like turn up your radio to half total volume to wash out the droning sound. I think it may be due to not being 'primped' air pocket..? hose corners may be too tight pinching the flow? WOW is that pumps loud! If I had it to do again I would wait and pony up the full price of the nice quiet Subaru fuel pump.

Some where I read that the 1991 Loyale with automatic seat belts (mine) has some kind of kill switch relay right behind the fuse box. This would be an additional troubleshooting break point as it’s inline with the fuel pump relay and the ECU ?? I can’t seem to find that article again, but I’m certainly willing to look at it. (Maybe even take it out) I’ve been doing all this without a wiring diagram and it feels like slow motion. edit Saturday... I found the link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/3868-90-loyale-fuel-pump-question/

Update: Last night I checked all the relays (there are 4) under the drive side dash. I pulled down the computer and revealed the 4 colored connectors. I removed them each and checked each relay and they all passed the click test and voltage with my meter. So hitting the pump with the handle of my jack works. The fuel pump spins right up! I used my old Power Probe (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED) to connect to the pump + and - itself and it worked as well. It still runs like crap, surging and sputtering, but at least it's running, but not drive-able... It's not my daily driver so I have time to mess with it and the weekend is coming up. Additional information: I've been all over the web looking for descriptions of each relay or even a wiring diagram. There are four colors green black blue and grey. All the relays are the same x4 and could be used to troubleshoot each other. They all turn on when the key is energized, prior to start. Picture: hmm no option for pictures.

a gentlemen (bluelightning6) over at 2carpros said "Fuel pump relay is located on right of steering column, right of ECU (blue connector)" https://www.2carpros.com/questions/subaru-loyale-1991-subaru-loyale-fuel-pump-relay--2 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/158156-91-loyale-fuel-pump-relay/ "The fuel pump relay is located on top of the ECU. You remove the ECU then you'll see a single philips head screw. Remove that and the relay drops down." Keep in mind my car DOES RUN on starter fluid... more from the same post... (thanks robm) "I thought the relay was part of that cluster of 4 buried deep in the dash above the fuse box? I think it is headlights, fan and FP relay? I could be wrong, it has been a while. Access is horrible. If you plug the green connectors together and turn on the ignition but don't start the engine, you will be able to hear the relay and pump cycling. If you hear the relay clicking, but the pump doesn't buzz, then try running a wire direct from the battery to the red wire on the the pump, with a wire to the chassis from the black wire. If that doesn't make it run, then it is the pump. Otherwise it is the relay. The relay can click, but not connect, or it can just not click at all. You can get access to the fuel pump wiring inside the car, under the rear seat on the passenger side, where the wiring goes through a grommet in the body. Remove the grommet, pull the wiring inside, and there is no crawling under the car required. There is no ground through the ECU on these ones. The fuel pump black wire goes direct to ground. The relays are very flaky when old. I had one that was very flaky, it would quit when too hot or too cold. I had a wire run from the battery ready to connect if it failed, and I ran it like that for months. Every few days I would have to use the wire, then next morning, start the car as normal."

This is my best lead yet for a question over at this link - http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/159645-91-loyale-fuel-pump-failure-replace-with-ford-pump/

New information: Locations: * Fuel filter is right in front of the driver under the hood and behind the driver side strut tower. It can be removed with a #2 philips screw driver and a hose removal pliers. $ 6.50 USD for the filter * The fuel pump itself is under the car in front of the passenger side rear wheel, but not along the edge, it's much closer to the drive shaft and exhaust in the center. It's above a plate being held on with 3x 10mm bolts (medium or deep socket), and the pump is attached to that plate with 2x10mm nuts (shallow socket). + 2 wires going into the harness. The fuel pump itself certainly is in-line and NOT in the tank. Until I slipped under the car and saw it, I still had doubt. I replaced the fuel filter under the hood. I'm unsure of a second filter (sorry John in KY). Results: no change. It'll try to start and immediately quit. Still works with starting fluid. I thought I could test a Ford pump, but that hasn't happened yet. I also found another cheap 3rd party pump for sale if it comes to that... Autobest F4323 10 in stock for $47 bones USD. with a week ground delivery shipment. * 1990 Subaru Loyale 1.8L H4 Turbocharged http://www.partsgeek.com/gw9371s-subaru-loyale-fuel-pump.html I haven't ordered it yet as I'm certain the pump relay isn't getting the message to the pump. Usually I would expect the pump to charge the fuel pressure when I turn on the key and it's not. I've checked all my fuses (under the steering wheel) and they are all good 15 and 20 amp. * naturally aspirated SFPI engine Where might the fuel pump relay be? I found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/78350-fuel-pump-and-relay-location-ea82/ I'm considering going to find those green plugs and check the engine codes... more to come.