Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About rollprimopartz

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    St. Cloud Minnesota
  • Vehicles
    1997 Legacy 2.2
  1. Thank you for your quick reply, I was under the impression that the valve covers were the quick way to tell the difference. Valve covers aside, being that it was made in 8/96, I'm still inclined to believe (hope) the engine is non-interference. I don't have the vehicle in front of me, but I believe the plugs go around the valve cover and not through it. I'm assuming this is the sure fire way to tell if it is a 96 motor in a 97, and non-interference? Thanks
  2. @86bratman I've found information that says the 97 was a transition year, and addition information that says the interference motors were not made until the first few months of 97. Either way I was able to confirm that this particular motor is a non-interference motor by the grooves and Subaru stamp on the valve covers, due to the fact that the interference motor valve covers (smooth) can not fit on the older non-interference motors.
  3. I recently picked up a nice rust free 1997 Legacy 2.2 with a broken timing belt. I’ve gotten it started a few times but I am convinced the timing is still off. I was wondering if anyone on this page could offer any additional help. Things I know: Car is vinned as a 97 Inspection plates states that it was manufactured in August of 96 Motor is an ej22, non-interference motor – confirmed by grooved and stamped valve covers. Timing belt was broken while running. No other work has been performed on the vehicle since the timing belt was broken. Vehicle is not currently throwing any codes. Things I was told: Vehicle was running well with no check engine light on prior to timing belt breaking. Since I’ve taken possession of the car I have replaced the timing belt. The belt shows the appropriate amount of teeth, 44 to the passenger side, 40.5 to the driver side from crank notch. All the ears are present on the crank sprocket, I’ve lined the hash on the rear of the crank sprocket to the hash by the crank position sensor (approx. 12 o’clock) with the keyway facing down. I’ve lined the cam gears up with the belt, with the hash mark on the face of the gear facing upwards in the 12 o’clock position, in line with the notch in the timing belt cover. In this configuration the tdc triangle on the crank is in the 3 o’clock position, and the tdc arrows on the cams are up and to the right, 45 degrees clockwise from tdc. All pulleys, pumps, and idlers spin freely, tensioner is not leaking oil and takes a couple minutes in a vise to reset with a pin. I’ve had this timing belt on and off close to ten times, with at least 5 sets of eyes (all car guys and two professional mechanics) to verify timing. I’ve spun the crank multiple times and rechecked timing. Car has occasionally started, but starts hard and runs rough. While attempting to start, and performing the wot/clear cylinder procedure, and then applying half throttle, car pops and back fires violently. All of my experience leads me to believe the car is still out of time. There are a lot of knowledgeable guys on this forum, I’m hoping one of you can point me in the right direction. I’ve working on cars my entire life, and have an entire professional mechanics shop at my disposal. Any advice would be appreciated.