Craigar

mine is also passenger rear drum .. . comes and goes about 19 stops no noise to 1 stop with noise stops fine (if I remember to step on the brake pedal)

meanwhile, back at the ranch...

I'm in a state of serious *suspense* waiting for the outcome to this chase scene (or conundrum)?

Like what their talking about in this post. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/84405-lock-plate-lock-washer also fits Fits DL/GL/GL10/RS/RX, Justy, Loyale, XT - as long as front wheel drive

Yea, I was really concerned cause I was under the "mental delusion" that ATF was "vegetable oil" based but if their both petroleum based than, the viscosity is probably the main issue - I'm glad it was 5-20W rather than straight 40 weight - also I'm in L.A. so it never gets much below 40 degrees (so far - this was a noticeably colder winter..) Never had any shifting problems, just wish the 3AT had a 4th gear - but I put taller tires on and that helped (does 55mph at 3250rpm) Thank You

luckily I noticed it was yellow & stopped pouring, I grabbed a quart of that instead of ATF - they were both in silver (plastic) bottles (Phillips 66)... and I drove it home about 15 miles seems fine ... Ooops?

wish I read DaveT and somick's replies before I put it all back together - seems OK so far = no drips & holds pressure. The "extra thick" o ring felt pretty tight - and I loaded it up with lithium grease, debated rather or not to "rustoleum" it like I did the heater bypass pipe in this image

Really is a "farm tractor" quality & ease of maintenance motor - I heard this motor (maybe EA81) back in 1985 in a Fuji Forklift! really dug the way it sounds - kinda like a pair of harleys with more time between the pair of thumps (Harley maybe 40 degrees between power strokes and 180 on these ) especially if listening off to one side. Crazyeights - you are courageous, if you have SPFI (like mine) their single port intake heads (for pair of cylinders), so I think you gotta replace the heads.. and that makes it easy to do a whole top end rebuild!

Thank you all you great guys out here on USMB - I couldn't have done it right with out you - probably would have messed it up. I wasn't ticking too bad, but now ZERO - and super quite overall! Also did water pump, hoses and seal on metal pipe that goes into pump. Sealed up some cracks in my air intake snorkel with RTV, fixed anything I found along the way and now it's super quite and smooth. No "bubbles and water fall" sounds coming out of coolant system. No scary stuff with the temperature almost going into danger before thermostat opens. Im pretty sure the last couple of days before the belt broke it had lost at least a tooth and jumped a tooth cause it was feeling out of balance when idling - that's the main reason I kind of why I thought it might be a waste doing this job - and I REALLY didn't want to tear it all the way down, I would have sold it or junked it. It really feels like I have a brand new rebuilt motor! To me it's amazing there is such a difference. AND NO OIL DRIPPING (yet) all over the bottom of the timing belts, which would spread into the exhaust pipe and start burning & smoking if on the freeway very long! It's almost like a dream... Thanks again

I'm sure your right, but I didn't see your good response - Thanks! & it came out easy following suggestions here - with a slight little different twist on my part https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/35018-easy-out-procedure/?tab=comments#comment-283038

Here was my broken AC mount bolt https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/168114-ea82-one-broken-off-bolt-in-top-of-head-that-ac-mounts-onto-is-it-important/ 1st Liquid wench, then followed suggestion here & got left handed drills, drilled a small hole about 1/2 inch deep - but the next one LH in the $12 set was too big so got a right handed drill 2 sizes larger and cocked drill motor to the right to compensate for previous hole being a little too far to the right - started slow and "all the sudden it looked like bolt HAD GONE IN FURTHER -about 1 turn.. stopped & got a steak knife, stuck it in my now chamfered looking hole, twisted CCW and it backed out!

The AC on this car hasn't worked anyways (and I'm in L.A. so not too hot (yet) ) and it felt solid even with this broke off bolt (level with the head) before moving the AC & its bracket out of the way to do the timing belts & front seals. Maybe this bolt doesn't matter unless I'm going to be off-road and doing cartwheels (don't have any bolts holding my battery either). should I try to get it out & put in a new bolt - or try something crazy like drilling a smaller hole in the center of this broken bolt and tapping it & use a smaller bolt - or forget about it ? Any other ideas welcome also - of course I could/maybe should remove the entire AC & run smaller belts? slid unbolted AC over about 1/4 inch for clarity

figured if anybody would know, you had too thanks! Do you have - OR ANYBODY? have an image of this shield , and is it important? Speaking of "shields and covers" I'm missing my "bottom center piece of timing cover according to FSM & Haynes manual exploded drawing - there is at least 1 bolt hole in the bottom of the oil pump housing for it from what I can see, here's image from underneath & arrow pointing to bolt hole. Seems like it would be good to protect this area?

I think its original/stock cause its stamped from a punch "die" and fits perfectly over the dipstick tube's plate that goes under this bolt. I'm thinking maybe a version of Loyale has real oil pressure GAUGE sensor which might have a PAIR of wires - I only have an on/off "idiot" light on the dash with a single wire going to this sensor (down by the oil pump). Thank you

Man I feel stupid, and I even took a couple of (crappy night) pictures of this prior to disassembly but maybe already removed the wiring - or vacuum hose, - IF there was actually anything in the plastic "mount" > i also see a locking twist "tie down" down by the bottom of the dipstick tube that has, which seems obvious that it must be for oil pressure wire. I also thought/think this one here might be but it looks like it's for 1/4 inch whatever - and the oil pressure wire is only 1/8" so it will "fall out". Here'se holding the oil pressure wire in it (crappy night) picture of this prior to disassembly - of course view of clamp is blocked by other wiring seems like it must be important, took a lot of work to make the tooling to produce the metal mount.