dirtyloyalemobbin

Alright boys, this ones got me scratching my head. Leaving work last night, I went to fire up my 1992 Loyale and every thing was fine at first. Being winter, I sat and let it warm up a few minutes. It was running a little rough, but I live in Anchorage, Alaska and its pretty chilly. Maybe 20 degrees. When i say it was running a little rough, it's normal steady rhythm was off, like it was missing a beat or two. Typical for a cold start. I went to pull from thr curb. About a block down the road, still running rough, right after shifting into second, the engine quit. No extra noises. After trying to restart immediately failed, i pushed it to the curb. Popped the hood. I found nothing obvious. I improved the battery's ground and the ground off the transmission (by the way, i do not understand this wires function. It runs from the top of the trans housing to the upper framework that would hold the spare. If it is disconnected the car still operates, but at 8 volts not 12-14, and fluctuates with the clutch. If someone could explain that I'd really appreciate. Ive owned and turned wrenches on this thing for 10 years and still dont understand that wire. Its a manual. There should be no electrical in the gear box, right) Anyways. It was pretty darn low on fuel, but the gas light wasnt on yet. To be sure I put a few more gallons in. Checked the oil, also low but not terrible. Topped it off. It still won't fire up. It turns over, theres good power. It tries to start weakly. It sounds like it wants to. Its dark so I'll check it out more tomarrow. I just dont understand what it could be. It was running good, then just quit just like that. Ive done a lot of work to this ride. Timing, alt, new batt, throw out bearing, valve cover seals, etc. Any help I'd deep appreciate.

Gloyale - I will check that. Thanks mate. I think a flush is a good idea too moosens. You're in Alaska too if I recall reading correctly? I pulled it into my work's shop to try to determine if the heater core was blocked up. My conclusion is still pretty vague. With the heater supposedly on max even for some time both hoses were about equally warm, not hot though. Not hot like the main hose in the front was, that's for sure. I squeezed the hoses for a bit to try to move the coolant around but I don't think I got very far. I'm far, far more familiar with ea82s/Loyales. I should really post some pictures of my "best" lol.. (The one that was tboned) Its been featured in the newspaper and a few pictures have circled social media. Good times.

True, I hadn't thought of that *facepalm* - finding if both of the core hoses get hot, not just one. Shall do today.

Hey guys, so as some of you guys probably know, my trusty Loyale of many years was tboned. She's at the doctor.. Ahem, shop. Meanwhile, I've picked up a 90 Legacy. Exeptionally well priced, low miles and well taken care of all around. One problem - stone cold air only. In Alaska. When I first picked it up, it was so iced up on the insides of all the glass it was almost impossible to drive. I managed to scrape a small hole in the thick frost and get it to my home. The defroster, as well as any heat setting, doesn't exist. The fan comes on and you can hear the buttons respond but its not helpful in the slightest. Cold as can be. That first night I ran an extension cord to a space heater in my car for about 7 or 8 hours. By the morning the ice inside was nicely cleared up and dry. So at least I can see now. I just hope its not the heater core. That's a tedious job right there. I wanted to hear what you guys thought. Coolant levels are good. It may leak a little around the resivoir bottom but not any amount of significance at all. Temp gauge is a little sporatic. Not exactly reassuring. What do you guys think?

Will do. They sure seem to look different though.. Ill try to find out and look in my Chilton manual too. My guess is that what I've got under my 92 Loyal isn't quite the same as the 93 Legacy. But hey, if I'm wrong that's a $35 fix. Any one got any more thoughts? Id appreciate any help

I didn't see any for a 1992 though. 93 and up don't seem to be so scarce.

Well, with a new belt in installed and new or brushed up connections.. I haven't heard it slip since. Bad news though. Rotten luck in fact. I got tboned. Got struck in the passengers door and wheel. Undrivable. Broke the front left wheel inward. I can fix it.. But damn. New strut, CV, bearing housing. I think the hub is okay but you gotta press it all apart anyway. One other part.. Control arm. This ones giving me some trouble to do find. Anyone have one they'd want to sell me? Or any other ideas where I could find one?

I have checked and tightened the belt, and I'm putting a new one on right now. As DaveT said, once they slip, its easier for it to slip more. At the low cost of new belt, that would be just too easy a solution not to try anyway. If it doesn't work, at least I've narrowed it down farther.

As far as my 4x4, it engages/disengages fine but there is a bad grind that increases with speed. I suspect no gear oil in the diff. Ill grab that at the auto store too just in case. If I recall my bottle is damn near empty anyways

Lyman.. I'm not interested in anything dark web. I don't even know that language. Thanks.. But get outta here with that stuff bro.

Thank you everyone. Sorry I've been awol for couple days.. my phone dropped out of my hoodie into a concrete pit at my work. Shattered, random colors, useless screen. Coolest day ever lol. Alright, today I will get a new belt, check every pully bearing, and install a new belt. The 4 fusible links are new as well, a little under one year. None the less ill check all my wiring. I know the plug in at the back of my alt is a little rough.. I've cleaned it up best I can before but I doubt I made much difference. Whats still hanging me up is the power steering.. It chirps at me with turning of the wheel and has abnormal resistance to the point where I have to 'muscle' into turning intermittently- with or without the loud belt scream. All of these symptoms are greatly amplified when the car is cold, ie. early mornings. (Doubtful, but I hope my rack isn't toast.) Anyways, looks like I've got a mission to the parts store. Ill let you guys know what I find!

Hey guys.. Been quite a while since I've been on here. Lets just say my ej swap is not complete yet but the project is moving closer toward execution slowly. Anyways, I drive a 92 Loyale. Its the 5 speed, push-button 4x4 (which is also giving me trouble as of late.) Here's what's up.. Under certain conditions, my engine will make this nasty belt squal and drop my voltmeter down to around 8 volts. Lasts about 5 to 45 seconds depending on temperature. Its worst at a cold start. She fires up right away no problem even in cold temps (I live in Alaska) but screams for 30 seconds or so before fading away. It will also squal at sudden power depends such as headlights and heater fan, and turning the wheel into the far half of either direction or turning while stationary/nearly stationary. You can see the voltmeter drop and return to normal with the start/stop of the noise. You can gun the RPMs to 3500 momentarily to make the noise face out much faster. Now then. I think its a belt slipping on a pully, most likely alt, p/s. pump. But, if it was the belt on the alt, slipping with the increaed resistance on the pully while the alt atempts to recharge the draw taken from the battery, why would my steering cause the same noise, a system with no electrical? Besides my alt and batt are both essentially new - under a year. Power Steering fluid is good, and my pump is under a year as well. Other new parts: water pump, timing belt, timing tentioner, throw out bearing, plugs/wires,.. I know I did more. Any ideas now to nail this one down? Seemingly simple but I can't seem to narrow it down. Belt Tention? Bad ground/main positive lines off the battery?

Right on! It's good to know others have had such success. I'm confident in the mechanical regard, removing and new/old blocks and dropping the new one in *shouldn't* prove too difficult. The wiring part will be the most interesting. I'm absolutely open to advice/instruction on that. I should be picking up the donor car this Friday. It's a 93 Legacy 2.0, with 170k. Seller says the rear diff caught fire..? But the engine and trans are without issue. 400 bucks. I have yet to see the car in person, not to mention hear it run. We'll see. As far as the adapter plate & flywheel, I'm thinking I'll buy the kit from sjr, also for 400 bucks. I intend to get a new clutch as well. Probably other components too, depends on what I find as I go. If I doubt anything, it's getting fixed. I don't know how much work I'll have to do to the donor car. I'm kind of hoping to get lucky and not have to open it up at all. But 171k, and like 4 owners..

Right on! You'll more than likely be hearing from me. Currently, I have a new issue to resolve. So, in my quest for parts I've found a few options. I can get a nice jdm ej20/22 with about 50k miles for about $900. That's cool and all, but that leaves me needing an ecu, wiring, and any external components not on the block when they ship it. That being said, the donor car route seems better, until you get into it. For about the same money, you typically get a high mileage block, complete with its issues. BUT you get everything. ECU, etc - it's all there. I'd rebuild the engine from the donor car before I dropped it in my Loyle, at least throw a seal kit on it. I guess I'm trying to figure out which is less headache and part hunting.

Alrighty. After some more looking around, I return. In my search for an ej22, I've found a lot of 2.0 ej22's labeled as replacement engines for the 2.2s. Could someone shed some light on that?