Megell

So then the 95 up legacys are rated (amps) higher than the similar Impreza's? But the Impreza are more $ but with less amps than the Legacy Alt. ? The one I got today is rated a 70 Amps. I'm not sure what the book calls for and I didn't think to look at the old alt before I returned it. At least it was 120 instead of 59. ummm...

The last alt I rebuilt was probably a Delco back in the late 70's when I was making my living as a mechanic. I think we used to individually check each diode and replace as needed for just a few dollars. Or you could just get a rebuilt one for around $30. Good ol days. I hope these are not "the good ol days" with what the prices are by todays standards. Dealer wanted $274.95 for a factory rebuild. Mine was 120 today. OEM may be better in the long run. I'll keep an eye on this alt and hope for the best.

OK, I wondered where the crank sensor was. Is the temp sensor for the computer or the dash gauge?

Thanks Rooster2. I noticed when I had the alt. off that there were two sensors. One looked to be a temp. sensor of some sort and the other looked like a sensor for the timing belt area. Do you know what these two sensor are? Thanks again, Mike

I thought it was a little weird that the dash amp lite did Not come on when the alt. failed. I guess I'm just used to a dash gauges to give me an indication of whats going on under the hood. Personally, what good is the gauge if it's not doing it's intended purpose. But that's just me. OK, so this morning after doing some local research for alt's her in Tucson, I went to a place called ..uh...Tucson Alternator Inc. and they had one in stock for $120. with a year warranty. Several places I talked to recommended them as they are the rebuilders. I replaced the alt. and started the car and got a reading of 14 + volts at the batt. terminals. This indicates to me that the alt. was indeed bad and not the wiring between. I really appreciate everyone's help and suggestions and it really helped me to fix my car with the least amount of inconvenience. Thank you so much. Mike

When I turn the ignition to on, I get the normal bat, oil, brake etc; so I know the lights work. I start the car and all lights go out as they should. There is not brake light or bat. on while the engine is running. Everything seems normal.

Right now, battery tests 12.68v with engine off. Start engine and meter show 12.26v. Rev engine, no relevant change. Shut engine off and test battery again and it shows 12.44v. So, I guess that suggests either alt not working or voltage is not getting to the battery. I think I'm going with the bad alt since cable and connection seem ok. Thanks for all the helpful information everyone. Mike

Thanks, I'll give Jason a call for price. Also, I now live in Tucson and there are all kinds of auto/ auto electrical shops locally. I'm new to the area, so I'm still learning where the best automotive places are. It would be nice not having to change the alt. twice by making a wrong choice.

Thanks for that information on rebuilding it. It's been many years since I rebuilt an Alt, but maybe that's an option if I can get the parts that you suggested. Also, Is there a simple was of checking the voltage output on my present alt? I have a voltmeter.

Thanks, Nipper. Any suggestions on where to go online to order a reliable alt?

Thanks, I noticed that just before the old battery died, the car had similar miss symtoms, but this time the engine eventuall died immediately after making a left turn at a very big and busy intersection. How do you tell if the alt is putting out if there is no amp light on?

Did your Amp gauge light come on when that happened. Mine is not on.

Cables are clean and tight.

5 days ago, I installed a new battery as my old one died while parked in front of my house. Today, my engine began missing and finally died not far from my house. I tried to start it and the solenoid just clicked and I knew the new battery was dead. My question is, would the alternator in good working order deliver enough juice to keep the car running, even though the battery was low? My car is a 91 Legacy EJ22T sedan. It been well maintained with new T Belts etc; 187K and no alt. dash light on when running. Battery cables are clean. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike

I even hauled a sheet of plywood one time. Course, I had to cut it up in rather small pieces.

Sooo.....you must have a legacy sedan too?

Hmmmm....I'll have try that.

Yup, 2 to 3 ft sticking out of the trunk and 2 to 3 ft sticking out of the passenger side window. Looks like Subaru on a stick going down the road, but it works.

I have a Jeep truck that I use to haul lumber for home improvement projects. I have to use my 91 Subaru sports sedan to haul anything longer than a 12 ft 2x6. Yesterday I brought home a 14 ft. I know my car is good for 16 ft. of lumber, if I'm careful not to get too close to traffic signs and pedestrians, on either side.

Thanks everyone for these suggestions. I didn't think of the coolant sensor. I'll give that a try. Any special tools required to get to it or is it just a matter of having enough beer on hand? Mike

Sorry, I didn't mean you could not do it. I just meant that it seems that it would be alot easier to switch the rear differential than to dissassemble the front transaxle. Best, Mike

Plugs, gearbox(s) oil change, air filter, clutch, rear seal all done at the Subaru dealership in Durango CO. about 8000 miles ago. The engine oil and filter I did myself as I wanted Mobil 1 full sythethic since it is turbo'd. I never thought about a new air filter. I'll replace that and see if it helps. When the engine revs, it is absolutely smooth. It just revs and occaisionally does not want to come back down to idle. A couple of times it actually idleed at 1800 after a warm restart and never did come back down. I had to shut it off and restart and then it was fine for awhile. Nipper, where is the IAC Motor and how do you clean it, remove it? Take it apart? Air pressure it off? Thanks, Mike

I understand, I want to remove the 91 front diff. from my 91 trans. and install it on my 94 trans. That is if the front diff. just bolts on. Yes I made the mistake of not getting the diff. , but i'd also like to keep the 4.11 gear. Again thanks for your help As WTDASH mentioned, you cannot mix gear ratios in an all wheel drive or four wheel drive car. If you do you WILL get a grinding noise and some nasty results. The 91 is a 4:11, the 94 trans is a 3:90. Replacing the front gear ratio to match the rear is not an option. Replace the rear to match the front is much more logical. Mike

Thanks Nipper, I started having this high Idle issue the last part of this winter, but the first start in the morning was only around 1400 rpm or so. This is the first of July and it's reving up to 2000. It never used to do that. Most of my experience with FI cars has been a slighter high rev initially after starting and then idle down as it warms. I'm seeing a definate increase in early AM starting revs and am concerned about going into the next winter if this continues to increase in rpm on first start. I've had this car going on four years and it never did it before the last 6 to 8 months. Also, after its warmed up it still is starting to idle well above 1000 rpm and not wanting to come down to the normal 700 rpm range. Sometimes, it just seems to go to 1500 to 1700 all of a sudden for no apparent reason. I can sit there for a while and it will eventually come back down to normal idle, even when warm, like today in 90 degree temps. There's something wrong and it's getting worse. IAC valve?? Mike

Hi everyone. I'm hoping you can help me with an idle problem that has been increasingly getting worse. First thing in the morning starting the car, it revs immediatly to 2000 rpm and a few moments later down to 1700/1800. A tap on the throttle pedals sometimes brings it down to around 1500. After driving and warmed up it still seem rather slow returning to idle after stopping at lights etc; Sometimes the idle seems to stick up around 1500 for no reason and takes several moments to come down. Sometimes it doesn't come down until I pop the hood to check it out and when I get out to check the engine, It always comes back down to 700 rpm before I get the hood open. I don't like this high rev in the morning on a cold engine, especially when it's zero outside in the winter. Car is 91 ej22t, w/5speed. 179999 miles as of this morning. Car runs perfectly otherwise. New plugs, clutch and service recently. 29.5 mpg on last fillup. Is this a possible IAC valve? If so what can I do personally to help. Have tools, but not much experience with Subarus. Any help much appreciated. Mike