Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

XHighOctanex

Members
  • Posts

    269
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by XHighOctanex

  1. If anyone was wondering I put the new axle in today it's completely fixed no more grabbing or anything.
  2. I fixed it guys, well it fixed itself. I put brakes on it waaaaaay overdo btw like half a half of a half of a half of a millimeter from metal on metal, in some parts metal. Anyways I took it on a test drive, was good for a sec then bam still did it. As I turned a corner I could hear my driver cv axle (the one I didn't replace yet) creaking a little. I knew I needed one but figured it didn't ANYTHING like the passenger one did before I changed it and thought I might have a couple weeks. Then when the shaking got really violent now under acceleration I opened my door and could hear it and thought hm maybe that could be it. Well not 5 minutes later when I made a uturn do I hear the obvious boom of a cage blowing up in the cv. I felt something hit the bottom of my car (a piece of the cage I'm guessing since it wasn't big) and then the grinding and no movement. Car just coasted down the road gas did nothing at all. Put it in awd drove down the street home and looked at the axle. Whole thing moves in and out on the hub side. Oh and on the drive home, no more pulling. So in a way it fixed itself. lol so I'm gonna pick up an axle Friday or Saturday.
  3. Definitely what I'm gonna do, to clear up it pulls right but it makes a noise on the left of the car like the left pad is rubbing but it is pulling right. And both pads inner and outer are very worn. Just the inner are basically metal. The rotors are warper the pulsation is pretty bad. So I'll do brakes and go from there
  4. So I kinda tasted this is another topic I had but the problem is getting confusing so I figured I'd start a new one. 1992 loyale wagon 4dr 5 speed. I need brakes I know tht as in bad enough to my inner pad on my passenger is pretty much metal. They pulse and what not which isn't a big deal I'm doing brakes in a couple days rotors pads and all. It isn't my daily driver so I've got another car to drive until this is done. Anyways driving around 35mph the whole car shakes, under light braking there is the pulse but there is also the pulling which is more of a jerking to the right. I just put a new passenger cv axle so I thought that for a minute but now I can hear something on the driver side everytime the car tries to go right. Now I figured if a pad was rubbing on the left it would pull left not right, but I could be wrong. Nothing looks bent or anything it all looks fine I had it in a rack yesterday when I did the axle. I'll see what it does after I do brakes and have to go from there unless I find something before then.
  5. After a few hundred miles it hasn't really lost any oil, nothing noticeable. It was wet under it the car not on the ground but the pan when I got it but again haven't seen much new. I changed the oil today so we'll see. I plan on pulling the motor apart after winter and at least doing bearings rings and gaskets. I plan to keep the car for a bit and to go on some adventures with it. Would like it as reliable as possible. As to the pulling ill get under the car again this week and take a look at everything, it happened after I went through mud. So either somethings still got mud in it or the mud got something to let go that was dying already.
  6. Well I can say right now visually the new axle the ends were larger looking. To where I checked the part number 8b003 I believe or something and it popped up import direct 90-94 loyale axle. But the problem was there before I did the axle. It's almost like death wobble in a Jeep feeling wise but it only pulls to the right and goes away when accelerating instead of braking.
  7. Well nice, I'll get a good thermostat and see if it changes and I'll check it with a thermometer. I have a new issue though that started actually before I did the CV axle (about a few hours ago) but I figured it had to do with the axle since it was already crunching. At low speeds or when I let off the gas and sometimes under braking it jerks hard to the left. Now I need pads and rotors I do have normal puslation I know I need to do but this happened a couple days ago when the axle finally decided to do the constant crunch instead of sometimes. Any ideas? I couldn't see anything that jumped out to me on the rack. If nobody can think of anything I'll start a dedicated topic just didn't want to clutter up anything if it was a simple fix.
  8. That's what I'm thinking. I just ordered a cv axle I'll have that in today I'll get a thermostat here Wednesday and throw that in see if I get to temp and get that code gone. Would love to smog this thing next week.
  9. I changed the oil today and cleaned the maf really good, it idles closer to 800-1000 now instead of about 1200. Light is off gonna see if it stays off. I noticed that my car never gets very warm like I'm not even sure it gets to operating temp. My gauge barely goes above cold even after driving it quite a while. Could instead of the temp sensor being out could it just be thinking it's out since the car isn't getting up to temp? Heater doesn't blow super hot either btw. My golf threw a coolant system code for 20 under op temperature.
  10. How good is the rest of the motor? It's got 178k seems to run good previous owner didn't do great with it but he didn't ever use it much but before him the lady maintained it very well. I plan in going through the motor after winter
  11. Gonna take it to work tomorrow n try to clean my maf as good as I can if that don't help I found a new one for 90 on Amazon.
  12. Leads back to that maf and the main temp sensor going out... That's damn near what I paid for the car in those two sensors lol. Gonna have to see if I can get them at a junkyard cars worth fixing.
  13. Did it have a code for the o2 or did it come up as an air circuit like mine? I have a Matco maximus scanner at the shop that has obd1 adapters I wonder if I can get anymore information. I wonder if I can actually watch the readings like I can on newer cars.
  14. I replaced the one for the gauge, I haven't done the expensive one and I do have a temp sensor code so that and the man will be my next look after I go through the wiring I guess.
  15. Hello there, I'm new to this forum as I just got my subaru loyale on Monday, it's now Friday. First off I have a 1992 loyale wagon 5 speed 178k miles new timing belt front what the previous owner said, it doesn't burn a lot of oil and leaks even less. I just put plugs and wires in which were old but definitely maintained well enough. Ac blows crazy cold, I put a temp sensor in since my gauge wasn't working, leaned out my throttle body which I saw a newer air cleaner when I went in. Has a brand new battery, I had to put an alternator in it, pretty newish tires, needs a rear quarter window. Paid 500 for it and then drove it home 120 miles right after. Anyways the car runs fine, needs front cv axles violently needs the passenger one as I finished it off last night and now the car constantly growls at me and sometimes it'll catch the axle and tug the car to the right. Again anyways the issue lol, the car sometimes idles high has only surged once all week and I've already put at least 250-300 miles on it just trying to clean the system out. So what I'm getting is a check engine light randomly, as in it comes and goes as I'm driving sometimes as quickly as within the seconds. On off. I've popped the cover off and got code 21 and code 23 temp sensor and airflow circuit. Code 21 needs to go away but it won't so now I'm expecting the other temp sensor is out or hopefully it's wiring because the other sensor is 150$. The maf code I'm also iffy on, it doesn't idle rough it doesn't surge it starts fine it doesn't act like my maf is dead or really even dying. I mean unless it's sensitive to know it's starting to die before it Really starts to die then like I can see it. Sometimes while driving I can floor it and the light will shut right back off. Sometimes it'll come back after a second and I can do the same thing foot to the floor and it's gone. I would like to smog it as I believe it'll pass minus that light. Anyone ever seen this before? I'm very new to this particular subaru and it's the first suby I've owned. (I've worked on newer ones at my dads shop a bit). sorry for the long post and that k you for any help. Also not 100% sure if this is the right area to post this I couldn't find a designated engine section, but I am on a phone and it's a little hard to navigate sometimes.
×
×
  • Create New...