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YnotDIY last won the day on December 21 2018

YnotDIY had the most liked content!

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31 Excellent

About YnotDIY

  • Rank
    USMB is life!
  • Birthday 01/30/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Chicago, IL
  • Referral
    Jimbo Metiva
  • Biography
    new to subaru and trying to DIY as much as I can.
  • Vehicles
    88 GL Wagon D/R

Recent Profile Visitors

830 profile views
  1. Ah awesome, good to know! Do you have a part number for that upper diff bushing?
  2. Hey Everyone! Been a while since I've posted, I've been spending most of my time on FB, but it isn't the same. Honestly I miss "hanging out" on this forum. ANNNYWAY. I upgraded my suspension by following @Loyale 2.7 Turbo 's thread and getting a lot of help from my buddies and it's been seriously awesome. I should have done it immediately after I got the car. I've had everything on since the beginning of the Summer and about two weeks ago I noticed both inner axle boots in the back were spraying grease all over. The axles are original and I think the combination of old axle boots and my new CV angle due to the lift the new suspension gave me finally made those inner boots pop. Not a huge deal, I've already got them fixed, but I'd like to drop the rear diff 2" to prolong the life of the outer boots. There is already a bit of superficial cracking and I really don't want to have to change these axles outside come winter (no garage here). QUESTION IS HERE So my question is how do I go about dropping the rear diff? I see it's attached with 4 bolts to a hanger / bracket in the back and then 2 bolts for the mustache bar. I have access to a metals shop and could fab up a bracket for the mustache bar if need be, but how does this generally work? Do I need to drop the drive line hanger towards the center of the car as well? I get I'll need to get some longer bolts for that 4 bolt hanger, but what about the mustache bar? How does dropping that part go? Pictures would be awesome if anyone has them! Just want to make sure it's all aligned as best as possible so I don't start having drive line issues as well as axle boot issues. Pics for fun, do you think my camber is okay? action shot mid suspension install, and side shot of how it's sitting today. Any help is appreciated!
  3. @79DL thanks for sharing the thread on FB, excited to follow along here. Really great info @Crazyeights thanks for the detailed share!
  4. Cleaned engine grounds besides negative battery cable on trans. I couldn't get the heckin' nut off and the piece of metal it's attached to is bending all over the place when I put torque on the nut. I'll need an impact wrench to remove it. I changed plug wires for good measure. feels smoother, but no power gain. Went through process of changing check engine light so it lights now (was burned out), then I cleared the stored codes on the ECU. Check engine light went out during this clearing procedure as is normal. Just ran through process of clearing codes in the 88 FSM. Check engine light back on and all codes in post no.1 are still there. Not sure what's up. I'm going through checking all the sensors now. I'll post more later, but I did notice the resistance on my MAF plug (car side) is over 10x what is normal. FSM states MAF Plug (car side) should not be more than 10ohms resistance. Mine was coming in around 100ohms.... yikes. everything else on the plug tested normal output though. Just high resistance. I'll go through more sensors and plugs and post results here. I'm now searching for my power loss issue. Cold Start Issue seems to be solved (but it's also 40 degrees today, so who knows, haha) Thanks for all the help so far.
  5. @ferp420 started today from a cold start and car is running great! I have an SPFI and the injector wire in question was backing out of the plug on the injector side, not body side. Barely noticeable unless I was searching for it (and I was). Swapped in a new injector and it's much much better now. No more horrible start ups. Now I just have to figure out this power issue. Running good, but still lacking power in 4th and 5th going up moderate hills. Gonna check grounds and resistance for all plugs related to fuel/ignition. Mainly checking CTS and MAF now that injector seems good.
  6. UPDATE - Noticed a wire backing out of the plug for my Fuel Injector (injector side) didn't think much of it. Maybe I could see 1/32 of bare wire. Since I've swapped so much stuff with no luck this was on my list today. Pulled injector with bad plug from engine (looked like crap inside the cover), swapped it for a much nicer looking used one (installed new o-rings on injector before install) plugged it in and fired the car up. Seems much much smoother now. so I'm thinking I found the cause of this bucking jerking (2), but I wont know about that cold start up issue until tomorrow once the car has sat overnight. However! Still lacking power in 3rd, 4th and 5th. Just doesn't have the pull that it did before these issues. Ground issue? I'll test tomorrow and report back.
  7. @ferp420 - Changed air filter, dizzy body (I was worried about that code 11 crank angle sensor), dizzy cap / rotor (huge improvement in start up smoothness), plugs just changed, and I'm waiting on a wire set that I can pick up tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up about the small opening pre air filter. Appreciate that knowledge. I haven't looked into these MSD systems. are you running one? @DaveT Thanks for the info about the ground pins / testing ground. That CTS test is basically put it in water at X degrees and measure Resistance right? X degrees correlates to specific resistance. I completely agree with you about these 30 yr old parts. I was laughing at myself at the pick n pull in Michigan, in the heckin' snow, pulling a CTS from a Loyale that hadn't had a hood in who knows how long expecting that would solve my engine issues. The car side connector crumbled in my hands. I"ll be doing tests tomorrow.
  8. I've was looking at a service manual today and checking out pin numbers and corresponding sensors ect, but I didn't see how to check them. Is there anything on this in anyones FSM? Would I positive probe whatever number I'm checking and ground to body or use a ground off ecu side? If ECU side does it matter which one? Seems there are a few. Ground Pins as listed in 89 service manual PDF (got it off here) 30 35 42 44 50 51 example - Pin 23 (water temp sensor) *positive probe pin 23 and negative probe to car body ground or would I connect to a ground pin listed above??
  9. My check engine light is either out because of ECU issue or burned out completely (not showing in dash). I'm going to fix that tomorrow and re-set the ECU codes since that light is instrumental in knowing if I've cleared properly.
  10. Is this 5v reference with key on only? I’m pretty bad with electrical stuff never had to get into it until now. if someone could give me a quick run down that would be great. I know I’m askin’ a lot.
  11. Hey Ya'll - Posting here of course hoping someone can point me to something I haven't thought of yet related to my issue. 1) Basically it's getting very cold at night here in Michigan now and when I go to start the car in the morning it's pretty impossible for it to warm up (erratic idle, stumbling, stalling out) unless I stay out there and keep it alive with the gas pedal. Here's the thing though as soon as the car gets to operating temp, BAM smooth. Idle returns to normal and it's stays on no problem. 2) Car drives around okay, lacking power in 4th and 5th for sure can barely get it up to 70mph on the highway. Really falls flat in 5th. Also surging and bucking a bit on take off until I give it some gas then seems to smooth out. was throwing codes 11 - Crank Angle Sensor 21 - CTS 24 - IAC 31 - TPS 34 - EGR (this was the only code without green or white connectors plugged in) 51 - Neutral Switch Always ON SO FAR I'VE CHANGED CTS (2 used, didn't test resistance using water method) TPS (3 used all seemed in spec) IAC Dizzy Body (that code 11 had me thinking dizzy) MAF Sensor Checked Fuel filter for flow (looks good) Checked for Vacuum leaks (none showing up) It seems to me like it's something related to how the engine reads temp since at least it idles once it's warmed up. Maybe the 2 CTS I tried are all bad. At some point I'm thinking we can't keep swapping 30+ year old parts out for 30+ year old parts and expect spoob to work, but what do ya'll think? Anywhere else I should be looking? Thanks ya'll Oh and HECK WINTER.