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RustyBob

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  • Location
    Howell NJ
  • Biography
    52 year old man making money by refurbishing old cars
  • Vehicles
    Forresters constantly

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  1. So I have a friend who I just built an 04 Forrester for. Some may recall the thread of the JDM motor going in there. So the kid gets the car and drives it for about ten days. Here in the north east we've had some bad rain over the last week or so and today, while the kid was following my friend ( his dad) to a shop to get the car professionally detailed and all the kid hydroplaned into the back of the dads CRV. Dad calls me up and wants to know if I can fix the car, and I know a lot depends on what I see when I actually look at the car tomorrow. My question is if I strip the entire fenders lights bumper etc off a 98 that I have here can I use those to repair the car. I have the both headlight metal panels that go behind the actual headlights and upper rad support new from the 98.. can we make this all fit and work?
  2. one more thing... at the moment we have no oxygen sensors hooked up downstream was missing with the car when purchased and upstream had an unfortunate meeding with the frame rail while installing motor... this would not be making the car run too lean and causing an issue would it? ( we are getting the sensors tomorrow as our local supplier likes to go to sleep once in a while and doesn't share our passion of being all day and night in the garage
  3. ok we put the car back on the coolant bucket from the upper coolant tank by the turbo. ran the car for almost an hour squeezed upper hose had many small bubbles over time but once the fans kicked on at 205 degrees we locked back up the system and decided to drive it. At times it seemed the lower hose was a lot cooler than the upper hose... Drove about 24 miles car tem peaked at like 216 a couple of times and we noticed that sometimes the temp would rise while waiting on a traffic light or at an idle at a stop sign... Im starting to wonder if some crud may be in the radiator from that stop leak mechanic in a can?? could there still be more air in the system? Is there any trick to bleeding the system out?
  4. my partner in the car flipping business bought this car relatively cheap. Car would overheat if you got on it in excess of 226-234 degrees, We replaced thermostat and bled system ten times also replaced upper and lower hoses that seemed weak and the upper hose liked to implode once in a while. problem never went away. Discussion amongst others seemed to indicate that it was a water pump. we decided to pull apart motor. It appears that the PO did a timing belt ( he said he did head gaskets too) and we discovered the block had never been opened except to do the timing belt and water pump. these were good. we did find tho that the coolant pipe that crosses the block and goes to the lower hose appeared to have leaked at some point. Someone put mechanic in a can in there to seal it and we figured there must be a blockage at this point. We decided to go the JDM route with this car too and bought the motor that's in it now. I took the crossover pipe and had a radiator shop boil it out.. The radiator appears new and seems to have good flow. When we first put the car at idle we found that one of the cooling lines to the turbo was leaking . We repaired that leak and got on the car. It rode nice for about ten minutes 3 miles or so staying between 180 and 201 degrees. He got on it good and suddenly it went up to 234 . We were close to home and shut it off coasted in. We found one more weak clamp we replaced and are letting the car cool off.. we did lose heat while we were driving Now that we have checked a third time with the cooling system... any ideas as to what could be doing this>?
  5. So I figured id post an update so anyone searching later can find what happened.. pulled off front of motor and timing was dead on rechecked all vacuum and rechecked the intake gaskets all good bought a noid tester and checked the pulse to the injector and all was ok compression check 150 2, 3, 4 cyl 1 0 so out comes the motor and we are installing a second one from JDM
  6. thank you GD and Adventure Subaru for your responses... Im glad it wont be too drastic the car is being rebuilt as a first car for a newly licensed teenager so we certainly don't want him in a hot rod but we don't want the old lady on a Jazzy passing him either Tomorrow we are going to pull it apart and put in new gaskets on the intake and recheck timing and hopefully that is the issue I will keep you all informed and un the next victim is a 2003 WRX turbo that we have a JDM swap for but that's another thread and another post
  7. I will recheck that I saw you mentioned in another post that the JDM motor has a lack of power? the guy at the warehouse said the difference was in the intake and the long block makes it effectively the same motor I had once I install all the intake and other DSM items
  8. Im new to this site but not to cars in general Im a semi retired guy who goes and buys a car from auction or CL and repairs them for resale. Lately ive been getting a lot of forresters as rebuildables so from time to time ill have questions when I get stumped Look forward to sharing info with yall
  9. I have a 2004 Forrester wagon 2.5 motor. Car is an auction car I bought and it was obviously a timing belt issue so rather than try to repair this I opted to get another motor. I bought a JDM motor from a local importer where ive gotten many good motors for other cars before I finally got the motor all installed. As per JDM guy I swapped the cam pulley and the crank pulley, injectors fuel rails plugs( new) old ignition wires and coil and used only the long block so the original motor from my car provided the intake, harness throttle body and EGR tube I also swapped the flex plate Car starts and runs but appears to have a miss in only the #1 cylinder. I had a set of injectors from a 99 motor and swapped one injector and still no change miss seems to go away at higher RPMS also getting a code for an evap leak and TPS .. swapped the TPS with another I had same thing... any input before I tare off the front of the motor again to make sure I have timing correct but im positive I have both cams and the crank at 12 o clock..
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