Badchad14
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I had my tools stolen and in it was my crank pos sensor from my 03 outback 3.0 H6. What other car in a junkyard could I pull this part from as it's a magnetic type sensor 2 wire that I am sure is used alot. But who knows exactly.
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My motor is fried. No metal on top side left and intake cracked. Probly scrap this for the 100 dollars and hope to buy the legacy gt sedan.
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Wheel speed sensor or abs sensor. I begged this fellow to get ahold of me as I will beg borrow steal to buy this vehicle.
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- outback
- Love my subie
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At this point in time the axle failure is irrelevant unless the binding and breaking caused the failure which in my mind yeah it probly did have a large part of this happening. Trans and engine rebuilt 94000 miles ago and it's at 261xxx. Money is all I need to get it going and jobless unemployment isn't gonna buy me a damn thing. Where to I start obvious pull the engine and trans but least expensive option to get it built up again. Any ideas.
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Well here is the too of motor under the intake tubing. Catastrophic failure just as I suspected. Only worse than what I originally thought. Hope the pic loads. Need a new engine block. Both halves. What's the best route to go in this situation. Funny thing car still starts and runs. No oil and half the engine missing. Subie all the way. Advice?
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Diff fluid prior was a tad over full but leaking a tad where clicking axle was and I replaced seal. Drained and filled to proper level. Gonna go out and push car to apt parking lot as fire and police investigators finally left today. And look for where the fluid came from. 98% sure its engine oil. Will post in a bit when I have answers.
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Trans I may wait to try just depends on how bAd the engine part is damaged.
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What's the best manual to have handy while tackling this beast any suggestions?
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I am thinking a major overhaul here. If I could drive 12 hours I got a trans replacement for 150 but not gonna happen. But first step I am thinking pull the transmission apart from the engine see what damage has occured.
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This is where I am learning everything from scratch. Auto trans. Valve body clutch pack all foreign words but I am gonna learn as much as I can right now. And yeah I know the very basic operation of auto never cracked one open or rebuilt. Would it have done enough damage to just keep slipping I assume once they wear from all the slippage they don't recover. And wouldn't torque convertor or flexplate more explain the possible rear main (not confirmed) completely failing and all the engine oil pumping out.7
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Torque convertor damaged by the transaxle fighting itself with two different axles seems more to me an explanation. The car ran flawlessly other than the axle click pass side which I should have left alone the car was in perfect driving condition. The axle that same day is when everything other than the wire to solenoid in trans which I fixed prior to axle, even with torque convertor solenoid ground fault I think was the code, it ran flawlessly. Shifted maybe a tad hard but nothing crazy.
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Got car towed home. Whatever we xploded I can't directly see as skid plates are in the way. I use delvac 15w40 engine oil, have in all my Subies, Az heat etc leaks slow, but engine dumped all the engine oil out. Started and ran before I cut it off cuz oil is all dumped out somewhere. Looks like coolant and engine oil haven't pinpointed the explosion but rear main I guess on glance without removing skid plates. Back to trans issue. Before I swapped the axle for the wrong part given to me, I drained trans to repair the severed wire and changed filter and fluid. Added Lucas and level was perfect and color was beautiful. I service vehicles for a career manage oil lube shops so fluids and levels I consider myself expert on. After repairing the wire the MIL light immediately turned itself off I then changed the axle out and drove a bit and seemed ok. Well next time I left the axle exploded. Bearings all fell out and race completely cracked in half. Also was slipping the trans no 3 or 4 gear and 1 and most of 2 but 2 started the slip. Checked to see if the fluid level was ok, was. Went home dropped pan to test or check wire on solenoid and the fluid looked like it was candy apple red with lots and lots of metallic flake. Saturated with metal shavings that were not there before. Put new axle in went to test drive lost same gears again and hike driving at pretty high RPM to try and get home lost all the engine oil. Prior to that the throttle bogged way down when I tried to take off just the last two miles before fluid explosion.
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I will do so and no I will only ever buy Subaru. So I will learn as I need to and this one I will rear down starting today.
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Here is my issue. Unemployed. I live in area where if I don't drive I can't get to a job. Been wasting a week and a half and can't get it home and until I rip it apart I really won't know what really happened. Losing my faith in Subaru real quickly. I still don't know what blew up. Suddenly wouldn't accelerate without flooring it then wouldn't move without RPM over 3000. I think new motor is also needed. I will see tomorrow
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Sorry still dealing with a house fire next door so can't answer so quickly. And why was the car running perfectly prior to installing new axle. Other than check engine light for torque converter switch solenoid perfect running car. I decided to replace axle only cuz of clicking sound bad axle makes and torn CV boot. Tried posting pic will try again
