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About Ubatz

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Rochester, Washington
  • Referral
    Googling to learn about my car and this site popped up a lot
  • Biography
    I'm a 18 year old aspiring mechanic with still plenty to learn. I love Subarus in general but mine definitely needs some work.
  • Vehicles
    1991 Subaru Legacy N/A
  1. Update, I was thinking of something else. I haven't done anything to the CTS. I've also heard the VSS can be a problem causer for this?
  2. I had it in a shop for the tps. They calibrated it for me. Thermometer and coolant temp are all working properly. And were recently replaced since they're a common problem for the car in the first place.
  3. I have a 1991 Legacy with code 24 and it would not fire on cylinder one as per the usual in limp mode with said code. I replaced the tps and now it fires on all 4 and it's a new pre-calibrated IACV. Is it possible calibration is off? All the wires have been rebuilt/replaced that got to the iacv. I put in a new ecu and it runs a tad smoother now at least. Symptoms: -Cold engine must be revved to about 1.5 to 2k for a few seconds so it's a tiny bit warm to run decently enough. Warm engine is fine. -Idle is higher than it usually is. -Automatic Tranny; Shifts to soon and makes it bog and struggle to speed up -Overdrive engages and stays engaged until under 40 mph which it never did before. [Symptoms are the same across both ecu's except the old onw just made the idle a tad rougher.]
  4. Clearing the code and resetting the ECU again has made it slightly better but the issu still exists so I need to check the wires. I'm hoping it's a bad ground cause that's probably the easiest to fix honestly.
  5. Thanks! I kinda get an idea from those. I'm gonna try to let the engine warm up and go for a short drive. and if it doesn't change I'll test power ground and the sensor wire [three wire system]
  6. It's a code 24. Two long flashes and 4 short ones. the iacv is seperate from the throttle body etc.
  7. I recently replaced an idle air control valve and the check engine light is still on and the idle is still rough. Do I need to reset the ecu? Or do I have a faulty wire? I'm a bit unsure because normally I've never had to reset the ecu.
  8. I know I leak a little grease and that's getting fixed this Wednesday. The solenoid works sometimes but mostly not. It works on hot days abd I figured that would be because the fluid is less dense from the heat. Cause gear changing had become sluggish as well. [i work a part time job at 17 and am an aspiring mechanic. So flushes aren't easily in my budget.] I was recommended that it might just be a short. The pan looks undamaged but I'm gonna have it inspected. It's hard to find the part on my own so I may leave it to them.
  9. Thankfully my transmission isn't as complicated with the temp sensors. However, you could be right. I'll get it flushed and taken apart and cleaned. Then I'll have them check the wiring if that doesn't work after a little bit. it DOES have 300k miles
  10. Last I checked it was starting to get a bit dark cause I thought I smelt it Burning. It does have that smell on rare occasions. Usually on Long trips
  11. Yeah, that's how I figured out what it was. And then learned more when I had time. It flashes a code corresponding to duty solenoid B.
  12. I have a 1991 Subaru Legacy L with the standard 4-speed automatic transmission with lock up. Duty solenoid B within the transmission is responsible for the lock up however it's been failing or not working at all for a little while and when it does work it is weak. The transmission could probably use a good flush but I don't know if that would solve my problem at all Maybe the weak problem but I'm not sure if there is a short or something causing the transmission to not lock up or if Duty solenoid B is just dead.
  13. I'm unable to find the page you told me about. I'm on a mobile phone which probably doesn't help.