Vkbikes

I got mine with a thin walled 13/16th spark socket and like 10 inches of extension.

That is true, hopefully the poly bushings fit correctly.

Ok, the engineer in me was likely over thinking it. I was concerned that if I didn't match the shoulder length properly id run the risk of binding the poly bushings.

Xt6 front control arms. Need the bolt, but Subaru part number doesn't yield anything.

Hello, I'm working on my 5 lug swap and my LCAs came without bolts. I know they're 12mm but do they need to be shouldered for the length of the bushing or does threaded work? Any idea where I can get ones that match?

I'm having trouble locating the CTS on this engine. The car will start and stall in park. In neutral it'll start and respond to throttle. It stalled in traffic on my way home so i parked it and went and got a drink, came out, wiggled wires around where I could've bumped something and then it started fine, check engine was gone.

But the problem is intermittent, the aav has never been connected in the whole time I've owned it. At first I thought it was because it was getting cold here in the PNW but after the initial issues there were some cold mornings it was fine, so I'm just at a loss.

So about 2 weeks ago I had an issue starting my 89 gl with ea82t, it shook like it was misfiring and wouldn't stay running without my foot on the throttle. Once it warmed up no issues. I didn't have another problem, but I changed the coil which was original out for an MSD unit. It ran much smoother. Then today I drove a mile, then I did plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. The rotor came out in multiple pieces, so I figured it'd run better. However it struggled to stay running without throttle and set a check engine. Then again later the same thing after it sat. It's almost like it's not getting enough fuel at startup. Is mpdi, and the aav is disconnected. Any ideas?

Right. And you might be able to trim the center of the bushing as well. Now if only they didn't cost $80

I haven't yet, but that's what I intend to order. It would appear the Loyale/gl trailing arm is the same bushing as the xt6 front. The overall width of the sp1144k kit when installed will be 2mm wider then stock. I have not yet confirmed that this will fit, but it should.

For the sway bar bushings on the xt6 arms, SPF1815 with SPF3110T tubes should work. There will be a 2mm gap in the center but that shouldn't matter. https://i.imgur.com/m0pKmVP.jpg

I contacted Superpro and the SPF1144K kit is very close to the XT6 sizes. For your viewing pleasure, here is a comparison on engineering paper. https://i.imgur.com/p0OOSGk.jpg

Well from what I can tell, there's some mention of super pro SPF1144K, but there's no mention of sizing, just that they fit a Leon chassis wagon rear trailing arm.

As far as installing ej studs, id like some clarification. The knurl on Dorman 610-401 is 14.43mm, or .568in. A 9/16th drill bit is .5625 which only undersized by .0055in not a lot of meat for the knurl. There's also a .5512in bit, which is undersized by .0168in. Any suggestions?

Just like the subject says, how can I be sure the front control arms are xt6? (5 lug swap) The mount for the bushing measures 31.4mm id for the metal sleeve if that helps.

Hello, I've got a set of front control arms off a 89 XT6 for my five lug conversion with busted bushings and I'm trying to figure out if I need the 24mm bushings or 28mm. I tried to measure then but it doesn't really match up.

Yeah i just got out and looked. Sad.

Rock auto lists part Dorman 524-139 as working with 93 and 94 loyales. Being as these are just leon chassis would this then work with a 89 Gl10? These appear to come with the larger impreza style ball joint.

ok I'm in, 200 plus shipping is reasonable for these

Hi I'm pretty sure I'm down, can you just recap exactly the specs so I can make sure I'm signing up for what I think I am. As far as i understand these are the same Subaru wheel pattern and xt bearing size but with larger EJ wheel studs. For converting the rears to 5 lug.

Bumping this one last time, they look like they'll fit but id like a second opinion before i send them off to get blasted and coated

Probably not the worst idea to do a visual anyways; this engine is a mess. Is it safe to assume that since the vacuum is strong and steady that the leak is pre throttle body?

I figured once i started doing flow-rate calculations i was over-thinking it. What is the canister that sits on the firewall on the passenger side. It's plastic with 2 lines coming off of it, one goes to the intake runner (i teed this like for my gauge) and the second goes across the centerline of the care and down into the drivers side interior. Is there any good way of tracing these leaks?

Hello, I just installed a VDO vac/Boost combo gauge in my gl10 turbo. Measured at the plenum (after Throttle Body): -20 inHg at idle (looks good) ~4psi at wide open. (low?) Measured at turbo outlet 0 inHG at idle ~8psi at wide open. So i have two questions, but they relate to one another. I get with the throttle plate closed (idle) i shouldn't see almost any vacuum at the turbo outlet. However how come i don't see vacuum when i press on the accel and i only see when boost starts to build? Shouldn't the (negative) pressure wave travel down the intake? Or is the flow rate too low to see a difference? That would explain the lower boost numbers, however what number is more accurate when determining performance; why do most boost gauges measure from the wastegate if those numbers don't take vacuum into account? And which is more accurate? Does my engine see "8 psi of boost" (the actual boost the turbo puts out) or "4 psi of boost" (the actual amount of boost minus the residual vacuum) Or is my turbo not flowing enough compressed air? Color me confused.

Bumping this; hopefully picking these up tonight, would like to confirm they fit.