hush777

welcome to the board

Yes Welcome to the board.

If you search a bit on here you should find some more info about the engine and cooling system. Several problems with the engine have been listed and I'll try to fill you in on that a bit. 1. Engine wasn't designed to allow maximum cooing between the halves so the pass side always ran a bit hotter than the driver side. Not much you can do about that. 2. Turbo on this engine is fed coolant from the passengers head, so the coolant is already hotter that the rest of the engine when it goes into the turbo. A couple things you can do about this. I found that you can take the coolant feed pipe off the pass. head and install it onto the drivers head with a little bending of the pipe to get around everything in that area (egr, steering etc....). So then the coolant is going into the turbo a little cooler, or about the same as the temp of the engine. But the water flow is reversed..... Never tried to get it set up for the normal direction of cooling. Mine did run a bit cooler but still ran hot when pushed. I also tried adding in a reservoir after the coolant left the head to allow the water to cool down a bit more before it got to the turbo. Also adds some capacity to the whole system. That helps also but still not enough for my tastes. Wire the cooling fans to always run. Jump across the connector for the temp sensor on the Radiator. Make sure the O2 sensor and cat are working and you aren't running lean. I ran one of these in the interstate up here in Idaho during the summer and the turbo so so hot that it ignited the vapors from the vapor canister and caused all of the threads for the bolts that connect the 2 halves of the block together to pull out and had to be heli-coiled. Water flows out the bottom of the head threw the turbo and then to the thermostat housing. Oil flows out the head through the pipe then drains threw rubber hose back into the head threw gravity. Hush

Had a chance to check things on this some more. Changed the whole intake with throttle body and coils to one off of a 92 legacy (Different injectors and harness) using my same harness. Still rough idle and pulling the injector wire for #1 or #2 does not change the way it idles at all. Checked for voltage at the injectors #1 and #2 10.8 volts on both. Checked ohms on the wiring from the injector to the connector by the battery 0 ohms on both. Checked the ohms from the connector back to the ecu and 0 ohms on both there also. Checked for voltage at the ecu on the wiring coming from the injectors (with engine not running ) 10.89 volts there. Checked the ground from ecu to body and 0 ohms there. Only getting one code but haven't had it running to long so other codes might not have set yet. changed the wiring around on the #1 and #3 injectors and now pulling the wiring off the #1 injector causes a drop in RPM but the #3 (running off the #1 injector wiring) does not. Took a look at the timing belt it seems to be right on. Hooded everything back up like normal and started it...... idle surges between 1250 and 1500. Pulled the wiring on the IAC and idle dropped down. Disconnecting #1 or #3 injector wiring still has no effect. Ran it up to around 2000 rpm and disconnecting and reconnecting the injector wiring has the proper effect on the rpms. Any ideas? Thanks Hush

91 legacy 2.2 auto Idle surges between 1250 and 1500. Just got the car and trying to track down this issue. Thought that it might be the iacv but changing that to a known good one didn't change anything. Found the tps loose and set it according to specs, still didn't change anything. Figured that I should pull plug wires and see which cyl.s where having issues. #1 idle didn't change at all. Ok change plug and wire Still the same. Pulled #2 and idle didn't change at all, ok must be the coil then. Changed to a know good one and still the same. did a compression check and the front 2 cyls are better than the back 2 but all are within range. checked (with spray) for any air leaks on all the hoses. Disconnect the maf and it dies, so I think it is good. Just not sure what might be going on with the 2 front cyls. Anything else I should check. And are the computers for a 93 with a manual and the 91 with the auto the same? or at least enough that I could hook up the one from my car (the 93) and see if that changes anything. Thanks Hush

Still looking to see if there are any carfax available. Hush

Have a friend who is interested in getting a new subaru (they have had 3) but wanted to get a carfax on them to see which they should get. 2001 Forester JF1SF65631H710784 171,585 miles 2006 Forester JF1SG63626H733903 114,000 miles Thanks a bunch Hush

Vacuum line for trans Should be attached to here. There is a screw inside the modulator that adjusts the shift points also. You may have to adjust it a bit. Last time I put a new modulator in I had to adjust 1/4 turn at a time till I got the shifts where I wanted them. The screw is accessed through the hole for the vacuum line. Check you vacuum line also to make sure it doesn't leak or isn't plugged. Hush

Welcome to the board. I'm Just north of you and run a construction company so I am in boise a few (6 or more) times a month, getting supplies. Hush

I watch craigslist in boise and see some deals, you might keep an eye on that. Also Oasis Auto on state st, around 43rd has always dealt in mainly subarus. Hush

Son sprayed card cleaner at the base of the intake on the driver side and idle picked right up. So need to have jason send me a set of gaskets. Hush

Got it home fine. Runs better after it warms up. Will start with plugs and wires and work my way out from there. Thanks Hush

Gonna take an extra Iac and some hose that I have with me. And some sealer and brake cleaner. Will grab some plugs and wires in town. Thanks Hush

Just gave the guy money and grabbed the title for the moment. Took it for a short test drive. idles crappy like hitting on only one cyl. Give it a bit of gas and after a few seconds it jumps to about 3 grand. Seems to like anything above 2k but goes back to the one cyl hit below that. Want to just drive this home. Any suggestions of what to check to get it running a little better? Need to drive about 65 miles to get it homw. Thanks Hush

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_2/climate/heater_system/illustration_1/ Hush

Possible exhaust restriction or bad intake flow would also be something the check out if everything else checks out ok. Hush

One thing that I have found out is that your local subaru dealer will be happy to give you any information about what maintainance and repairs that they have done on the vehicle if you give them the vin number. You can check with them about if the t-belt was done around 60k like it should have been. We have a couple dealers around here that I check with. Hush

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/steering/oil_pump/illustration_1/ Is the kit I got and I grabbed a 6203 bearing for it. Was pretty simple, if you have a way to press the bearing off and the new one on. Hush

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118834-97-power-steering-pump-rebuild/ Is the one I followed. Hush

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/c-compressor-clutch-replacement-diy-walkthrough-149236.html is the link I followed. It has pictures of doing the clutch. Hush

Just changed out the clutch on a 98 forester. Wasn't too hard. I used the clutch off of a 97 impreza 2.2. You need a small allen wrench and a way to block the front from turning. You should be able to see the bolt in the center of the outside disk on the front. After that you need snapring pliers. then you can take off the pulley section. You will have to remove the tensioner for the a/c to be able to get it all the way out. After that there is another snapring for the coil section. Inside the small shaft where you took the bolt out there are some shim washers that you might need to change. They are what sets the clearance for the cluth. After you get it back together the clearance from the front disk to the pulley section should be .012-.024" (.3-.6mm) Adjust the number and thickness of the shims to set that. Hush.

All the cables move freely just not the foot door. Hush

98 forester 2.5 auto. Just got it and the knob to adjust from heat to defrost and a/c wouldn't move. Took a look at the diagrams at opposing forces, took a look under the dash and all of the levers move except the one labeled #15 which looks like it controls #21. This is on illustration 2 of the /climate/heater system if you want to take a look at it. #15 is the link foot. #21 is the door assembly foot. Seems like the problem might be something blocking the door from moving. Took a bit of the dash stuff off to get in there but can't see any way to get to the door itself with out taking the heater box out. Can't get the black diverter out of the way to be able to reach up in that area. Anyone have to pull one of these out? Hush

98 forester 2.5 auto. Just got it and the knob to adjust from heat to defrost and a/c wouldn't move. Took a look at the diagrams at opposing forces, took a look under the dash and all of the levers move except the one labeled #15 which looks like it controls #21. This is on illustration 2 of the /climate/heater system if you want to take a look at it. #15 is the link foot. #21 is the door assembly foot. Seems like the problem might be something blocking the door from moving. Took a bit of the dash stuff off to get in there but can't see any way to get to the door itself with out taking the heater box out. Can't get the black diverter out of the way to be able to reach up in that area. Any ideas guys? Anyone have to pull one of these out? Hush

Fed ex shows 24.30 shipping to you. Price on Glass would be $15. So total is around $40 Can take one or more to Boise with me on Monday and ship if you want. P.M. with address. Hush