Tony Cortado

Those of you that said knock sensor were spot on! After reading your suggestions and noticing that the knock sensor is one of the first codes to show up, it makes total sense in hindsight that the knock sensor would send adjustment info to the computer, thereby messing everything up. I took it out and laughed pretty hard, because the plastic casing around it was almost totally demolished, and the sensor itself had some rust around it. Needless to say, after $30 and ..... 6 minutes of replacing the part, I'm back in business! Check engine light has been off for 5 days! Thanks everyone!

Hi all! I am wondering if someone can help me diagnose my car issue! I have a manual 2001 foz. It's throwing misfire and sensor codes. From acceleration or driving at slow speeds, there is major bucking, so much that I need to rev it up to get going - which occasionally includes a backfire or two. I got the codes checked out and replaced the Ignition coil as suggested, but that didn't change much. The spark plugs and wires are about 3 years old. No idea on the age of any sensors (bought it used 3 years ago!). Below you can see all the codes that were presented. Anyone know how I can diagnose this? Thank you!

So my wife wants me to try to sell it locally. I don't think that I'll get much for it, but we'll see. Sorry about the post

I love my Loyale, but it is time to part with her. 260k, all leaks, all the time, all sounds happen. I drive her 5 days a week to and from work (8 miles total/day). Rusted body, slowing power windows. If you are on this message board, and can come get her, she's free in Apple Valley, California. Feel free to pay something, or bring beer and t.p. (kidding about the t.p.). Available on April 12th. Pics soon!

I have been looking for OEM Soobie wheels for my 2001 Forester. The current wheels are 17" really ugly, hand painted white rims. The car has been lowered about 1.25 inches. The tires right now are 235/50/17. I found a good deal on a wheel and tire combo on Craigslist, from a 2008 Impreza. Stock 16" rims with tires 205/55/16. The only real difference I noticed in the rims/wheels is the offset, which is a mere 7 mm. The Impreza wheel offset is 55mm and the Forester is 48mm. Is that amount of offset going to cause trouble? Using a measuring tape, and eyeballing it, it doesn't seem like the tires will rub when the wheels are turned. I'm also going to raise the car back up to stock the near future.

Can I just swap out the assemblies? Take off the bolts and swap?

Aren't 15 inch stock for 2001 foresters? (I don't really know)

Hi All! We just got our second Soobie. The first is a gorgeously rusted '93 Loyale that we've had for almost 2 years despite its ... "condition." (Someone told me it's like a nice pair of worn jeans). This 2001 Forester is awesome! Engine is strong and the clutch is brand spankin new. It has some mods because we got it some a city boy who lowered it, put on a different bumper (from an outback?), heavily tinted the windows, larger wheels (17s), and added a beefy resonator. You can hear this thing 4 blocks away. We're looking to use it in the FOREST (and desert). First item on the agenda is to raise it back up. I'm a Youtube and Ultimate Subaru mechanic, so I took it to the shop to see what they would suggest (and to get a quote). The shop said the previous owner just swapped out strut assemblies, so the job is easy enough: get some quick struts and swap em back. Instead of paying them $1500 to do the job, I figured I can do it myself with inexpensive parts. My questions are these: 1.) If I get some quick struts from ebay or elsewhere (www.tiny.cc/quickstruts), is it easy to swap out without using a spring compressor? 2.) Instead of stock-size quick struts, if I wanted to raise it up just an inch higher, are there quick struts that will do that for me (I read on another thread that raising up to 2" higher doesn't need extra work)? 3.) Should I find stock 15" wheels to replace these 17"s? Thanks for any help and advice!

I'm the ... fourth owner, so I don't know who painted the flywheel. I did assume after I realized this wasn't for the timing, that it was for a reinstalled distributor. That's when I learned that the distributor is connected mechanically to the camshaft and couldn't normally get out of time. Decided to leave the covers on until I do a rebuild later in the summer; there's just too many fluids being flung around, so I don't want to potentially degrade the new belts. Now that I know how to do it, I don't mind. I did keep the fan shroud off, I don't really see a reason to have it on there. I wish I could change the title of this thread to "Timing Belt Replacement Instructions," so the next person that's looking can find it easier. Or, make them work for it. Thanks again, to everyone for helping me.

MOTHER OF ZEUS, SABINA THE SOOBIE STARTED RIGHT UP. Now I can take my expectant girlfriend to the hospital once she goes into labor -- due in 3 days! You guys are life savers!

I may have found my problem. In the video it talks about some painted marks on the flywheel. On the video, the painted marks are on the three vertical lines. On my flywheel, the one painted mark is not. I aligned my 12/6 with the painted mark, but I think I should have aligned it with the middle of 3 vertical lines. Is that right?

I did the procedure, consistent with what you wrote, with the video, and consistent with my haynes manual, and verified with a mirror (I am working with engine in the car), that they are 180 degrees from each other 12/6 with painted flywheel mark at top. Tightened the tensioner pulleys, etc. Instead of putting everything together, I wanted to see if it would start without reinstalling all the v belts/accessories just to see if the timing is right to fire it up. The engine turns but never fires, and I can smell the fuel reaching the injector. Am I supposed to put all the accessories back on for her to start even for one second?

Since my drivers side belt skipped a few teeth (causing no start), I will have to do the timing from scratch. Is this video accurate? I am very much a visual learner. www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZG1p70E4VXc Also, will I have to do something with the distributor rotor?

Genius.

To me, it sounds like a flooding problem that I had a few months ago. The injector was stuck in on position, so I had to run to the junkyard to get a new (used) one. Is there any gas smell? Reminds me of a few tedious days of posting on this forum. If no gas smell, then it might be a no fuel.