Brianmitchtay

Hell yeah man! I'm stoked you got it figured out and happy that my pictures helped - even if it took a while.

It should be an awesome time! and I like the "crappy" rack on your ride, looks very utilitarian. Is it connected to more than just four points on the car? I'm thinking part of my solution might be to somehow connect to the other tracks on the roof to further support and stabilize the load. I'm just nervous that with a 20 foot, 100 lb Kayak, plus a 16 cubic foot, 200 pound Roof box, I'm going to hit a bump or a strong cross wind and have my roof rack blown off the top of the car.

Alright I just popped over there and checked it out. The higher res pictures from your website were definitely very helpful. I had imagined that those two support legs that you have resting on the front bumper were actually connected to the car and provided some rigidity. That's really what I'm shooting to do.

Yeah I'm not a drifter (well not in cars anyway) so I've never heard of that engine. You don't like the ol' reliable EA82? hahah

I just followed the FSM for the distributor timing the last time I did my head gaskets and pulled the distributor off the driver's camshaft case. It has a section about setting the distributor to the camshaft, (Flywheel to 20 degrees BTDC and point the distributor to #1) and then it has another set of steps for getting the belts on and timed correctly where you use the III timing marks. Sometimes I wonder if I'd really have as much fun as I do working on my GL if I didn't have the full Factory Service Manuals to save me from my own mechanical inexperience and ineptitude... probably not.

I'm moving to Glacier Bay National Park for a summer of Sea Kayak touring and I'm planning to bring a ~22 foot, 95 pound, Tandem expedition kayak with me on top of the GL wagon. Reading the weight limits for the track mounted roof rack I have, I'll be WAY over the recommended max of 100 Pounds between the Kayak and my roof box, plus I'll really only have the thing supported in the middle without a support farther forward. So I figure the responsible thing to do is build a kayak support for the front and attach it to the frame somewhere. I'm imagining a welded square bar frame with a pin that I can pull to lay the bar down and across the front of the bumper (i.e. out of the way), or rotate it up to support the kayak if I'm bringing it along with me. I've seen that Dave T has something near what I'm imagining trying to build as his profile photo -albeit super low res - and so I'm hoping he'll come around to shed some light on what he had going on there and more specifically, where and how it was attached to the soob if at all Has anyone else built a custom support like this? If you were going to do it, where would you attach it to the frame? I think I might cut a hole through the plastic cover in front of the radiator if it could be affixed there.

Hi guys, I recently redid the heads on my 1987 EA82 GL wagon, and after I had it all apart I realized that I didn't have new o rings for the camshaft case (or the cam tower itself for that matter) I just used a little bit of the threebond form in place gasket to seal the small hole that sends oil to the lifters, but they tick a bit more now than they did before so I'm wondering if anyone knows where to get a proper o ring to seal it up. The dealer said they can special order them for me but it's $5 a piece and I feel like they're probably out there for cheaper somewhere. Rock auto has the cam tower o rings and seals for $1.88 a set (I've learned my lesson on the actual seals and would only use the o-rings), but none of the little o rings that go between the cam case and the head.

Just got my order from Rock auto and am excited to try GD's post apocalyptic machine shop techniques to mill my heads this time around since I had a gasket blow after only 24k miles since I did this last time without milling the heads. However one of the gaskets they sent me is pretty mashed in one of the corners, would you guys use it? I should probably just be patient and wait for a replacement because I'd really hate to do all this work and then have to take it all apart again.

Has anyone ever shipped an engine before? I'm in Alaska but if it could be done for a reasonable price I might be interested in that ea82 motor

If you feel like it's the lifters themselves, here's a little resource for potentially sourcing some reconditioned ones. I haven't gone through them myself but I know some people here have and have had good experiences. Plus at $4.50/lifter, it's not too expensive either. Not sure if it'd solve your clatter though https://mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm

Hmm, I didn't have the presence of mind to look at the condition of all the other relays under the dash, but I swapped out the instrument panel lighting relay for the fuel pump one so I could keep using the car in the interim, that relay looked to be in perfect condition. Today the new relay got here and now everything is back as it has been, It even looks like the shop might give me my $$ back since they essentially pretended to have fixed the problem and just charged me ~$500 for something I didn't even need! That's pretty sweet to get a $10 fix instead of half a grand! Plus I learned how relays work I cut the old relay open this evening just to see exactly how bad it was inside and also just to see how it works a bit better, here's a picture, for any curious souls. I didn't bother sawing the metal cover off the coil just to look at it because I was pretty done with hack sawing tiny things by this point. Definitely what was causing problems! Thanks again Robm2

Alright I think I just answered my question for the most part. According to General Disorder in 2007, line end cord output just goes to a dealership only diagnostic tool. Phew! no need to work up a sweat over it I suppose. Here's the thread where I found that info.

Hi all, I've been under my dash pulling my electrical bits apart trying to diagnose something and today while pulling out my ECU to get at my fuel pump relay I noticed a wire coming from one of my ECU plugs that's more than a little janky. The FSM lists the wire as being "Line end cord output" which means a whole lot of nothing to me, so I'm hoping one of you lovely folks might have a better idea what that means so I can decide whether or not I should be fretting over getting it more properly connected. There's the wire in question, old solder barely holding on by one copper strand And here's the FSM labeling that wire as #11 on connector F108, "Line end Cord Output" Does that mean anything to any of you?

I used full synthetic oil for the first few changes after rebuilding the top end of my EA82 when I first bought it, and it leaked considerably worse than regular motor oil does, so now I just use regular. (Granted it was my first engine rebuild ever and I could have just done a better job and my leaks would be considerably smaller). It did run a little more nicely when it was cold in the winter with the synthetic stuff, which was nice. Just my two cents

I think you nailed it! Take a look at these pictures and let me know what you think, definitely some corrosion on the fuel pump relay, I'd be willing to say that it's the culprit. Which is hilarious and sort of terrible because I just paid ~$465 yesterday to get my car back after they installed a new ECU into the car. I went out this morning at about 24F and the car wouldn't start. Ha! So I took it upon myself to pull this little bad boy out and now I've got another one on the way from rockauto for $10 after shipping. Denso Part #056700-5260 on the original relay, but looking up that number Rock auto lists STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS RY51, and Denso #567-0047 as acceptable replacements, so hopefully the other denso part number has the poles set up the same way, I couldn't find a listing online that showed the relay diagram and the part number on it.

Just wanted to comment and say I'm currently diagnosing a FP relay issue on my 87 SPFI ea82 GL and this was extremely helpful, thank you czny.

Well, finally heard back from the shop and they say that it's the ECU not sending power to the fuel pump. I'm having them swap in another ECU that they have and we'll see if that fixes anything. I have a feeling that it won't but I'm trying to be optimistic. If I were looking at this car as a financial investment (I'm not) I would say it has been a massive failure, now sitting at over $7000 put into this 1987 GL over the course of the last year and two months. Oof

Yeah I'm thinking the same thing. I put an entire bottle of HEET in, which they say treats 20 Gallons, probably have about 15 gallons in the tank, so it's definitely more ppm than it should be, but I have a hard time imagining that causing it to run SO terribly. Once it's warm I can get it up to 10 mph in first gear if I feather the gas juuust right. any gears higher than first and it sputters and starts to die. Good to know what the Neutral switch is for. I had read in a couple other forum posts that it was related to how the ECU controls Idling, but those people were all talking about newer models, OBDII equipped ones.

Well I finally got it to fire up for me, I pretty much narrowed it down to frozen water in the fuel lines blocking the flow of fuel. Either that or the fuel pump dying on me and either not running, or not putting out enough pressure when it's cold. Today since it was warmer (34F) I was plugging in the green test connectors and turning the key to on to see if the fuel pump would cycle on with the solenoids like it's supposed to (it hadn't been with it below 30 out), and after a half hour with a space heater inside the car, it finally came on and the car fired right up. Ran really really rough and sputtered all sorts of terrible smoke, which I sort of expected considering I'd thrown a bottle of HEET in there to try and get the water out. What I wasn't expecting was for the CEL to come on and flash 51, the MT Neutral Switch code. Car would die if I took my foot off the gas until it was warm, and then it ran like garbage and was smoking like mad from the O2 sensor/front Cat. Not sure if the HEET was burning too hot and ruining the catalytic converter or what, but even then it seems weird that the smoke would be coming out of the sensor etc. hard to tell for sure if it really was or not. Lots of smoke around and off that first cat anyway. Once it was warm I killed the engine and restarted it, this time no more flashing 51 code or CEL, but barely enough power to get me up a 3% grade and down the street. Funny thing is it was coming back to a perfect 750rpm idle, weird eh? must be related, maybe the neutral switch. My best guess at this point is that the fuel pump is going bad on me and isn't putting out enough pressure (hence no power). Luckily I have a spare pump I bought on here from another forum dweller, haven't tested it yet but hopefully it works. Tomorrow I'm gonna take advantage of my AAA and have it towed into Anchorage for the local Soob Specialist to look at and see what they think. Dave, or any of you other gurus have any experience with the Neutral switch? I'm not sure what to make of that in all this.

I've been thinking about doing this same thing for an extra light bar for driving the highways during the dark mid winter months up here, when I end up putting it together I'll have to post back here! I'm sure my work won't look nearly as nice as Jono's sounds to be though

It looks like I'll be installing a battery warmer and block heater this winter. I'm wondering if anyone else has installed one of the block heaters on an EA82? The ones I've seen look like they just go into the inspection ports/freeze plugs, but I'm not sure if I'd have coolant or oil coming out at me if I removed one of those, I've found some videos of them being installed on newer Subarus online and the port connects to a coolant passage, do you think it'll be the same on an EA82? I know I've seen a couple guys from Fairbanks on here every now and again, if you see this and you've installed one of these before, let me know!

Well I don't think it was just a one time thing with the engine being flooded. Just tried to start it up to head out this evening and it's the same story as this morning, cranks but won't fire, so whatever it is the cold makes it worse. Battery gauge showing about 10v, it showed around 14 with the car running earlier today. Haven't put a multimeter straight to it yet though. I'm guessing that either the Alternator is dying and not charging the battery enough, or the battery is just bad so it won't hold a charge. Seems odd though because the old owner said he installed a remanufactured alternator in 2013, and I bought this battery in July, so neither are so terribly old as to be broken. Next time it's warm enough out to get it started I guess I'll drive into the big city and have them both tested at a shop.

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I've been driving it for 2 weeks no problems after changing the belts, so not worried there. Hmm, yeah maybe I flooded it before it had enough oil in it to turn over easily and then never cleared it all the way. I replaced the CTS a month or so back, the 2 wire one. I really really hope I just flooded it and that there's not some cold weather gremlin hiding out with some unknown intermittent problem. One of my next things to do here is put in a battery and engine block heater just in case, I guess I should get on it. haha

If that's a joke it's pretty funny, Dee, seeing as how many times that's the solution to my silly problems