jonesyb84
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Everything posted by jonesyb84
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I'm going to go with the latter. Thank you fella!
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This seems to have worked. However i'm curious to how it could have got into this situation after it was only standing (unstarted) for a month.
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There are no codes present. I'll give that a nudge and see if it works.
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Or...maybe there isn't one on this model? Either way I'm having trouble with my idle. It will stall if I put the car into neutral while driving/coming to a stop, and it idles far too low.
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I'm a little confused as to the location of the Idle speed control valve on my Impreza 2.5i 2007. Can anyone help? Thanks!
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Problem solved: It's a vacuum leak. Many thanks.
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here are some results from the ELM327 test i just ran: www.weageomaha.com/1.jpg www.weageomaha.com/2.jpg www.weageomaha.com/3.jpg www.weageomaha.com/4.jpg www.weageomaha.com/5.jpg www.weageomaha.com/6.jpg www.weageomaha.com/7.jpg If any of you guys could shed some light, that would be ace! Thanks!
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Im just waiting for an ELM327 BT to be delivered, then i can post the results to see if any of you guys can shed some light on the situation. Im reluctant to think its the cables as I swapped the old ones out with new plugs to try to remedy the issue which was there before - and there was no change.
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Duralast Gold wireset is in place....I also ordered an ELM327 BT to see whats going on. I'll post the results in good time
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Would that be detrimental though?
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NGK iridium
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Is there a device similar for Apple products, or are these limited to android?
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2007 2.5i 150,000 Head gaskets replaced 2,000 miles ago
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My initial thought at the moment is the injector - hence swapping them over. I guess as a driveway mechanic its a little frustrating to waiting for the CEL to come on to confirm if that is indeed the issue. Although my motor would probably love a new set of Injectors, it's not getting them unless thats the issue!
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All the wires appear to be in good shape - nothing exposed etc. Both o2 sensors have recently been changed for OEM replacements. Also this is the only code thats being thrown (0301) so I would probably shy away from it being the crackcase sensor due to it being specific and no code 0335, or maybe im wrong. Also yes, the code has come up since replacing the coil pack.
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Greetings Scoob experts, I have developed a misfire and am struggling to get a handle on what the issue is. Here's some background: The misfire is only really apparent when the car is idling and you can hear/see the engine stumble slightly, not a a lot, bu it's there. Every now and then a check engine light will be thrown with a 0301 code. As the plugs and ignition leads were due a change, they got changed. No difference. The coil pack got changed: no difference. I tested the spark of that cylinder against the block when running: they all appeared consistent in timing and strength. I did a compression test: all the cylinders came up the same strength and healthy (the head gasket and all seal had all been recently changed). So now moving onto the fuel system, I figured that by swapping two injectors I could determine it would be the culprit if the code shifted from 0301 to 0303 (i swapped cylinder 1 and 3 over). The problem is that the issue is so weak that the CEL won't activate to determine it. Any advice? Thanks in advance.
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Update: I tried your suggestion Elite and the covers were all loose already. the bubbles no longer appear (one would suggest it did the fine tuning itself). But there is still a slight noise with turning the wheel and a loud screech when i hit lock. Really m wondering if iv just lost touch with reality and how its suppose to sound. ha.
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I snagged a OEM pump with 80,000 miles on it, fitted, bled, and low and behold...it worked! Well mostly. Im still getting a small amount of tiny bubbles that rise through the reservoir after turning the wheels lock to lock (engine on) and then switching off the engine. There are more if I go lock to lock than if i stop short. Im thinking there is perhaps a tiny leak created under pressure? Maybe through the banjo bolt and washer? Also, I just want to confirm the torque spec for that banjo bolt.
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Of course! thanks
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I hate it when threads have no ending, so here's the conclusion: Took her out on a long run and all good. OEM thermo and correct installation did the trick. Obviously the water wasn't able to get through the small gap in the aftermarket thermo and it probably wasn't completely bled of air. Thank you everyone! Now off to the next job
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Rockauto.com I'm learning very quickly that Subarus need OEM replacements!
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Good afternoon, I have a issue with the power steering which I believe is expelling all the air from the system. This all started as the pump needed to be changed as it began to fail, probably because of a bad o-ring on the intake spout. Parts changed: Pump, o-ring and reservoir to pump pipe. The issue is that while the car is in the air and the wheels are being turned, there is very little to no noise. As soon as I lower it on the ground and repeat the process, there is whining when i turn the wheels. I have been through the whole air bleeding process time after time and it still wont get any quieter than this. Observation: I did notice that as i turned the steering wheel left there was a 'juddering' in the wheels which can be felt through the steering wheel as well as observed. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
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Update: I got the old thermostat out, and yes, it was an aftermarket version. Also, the person who had been there before had placed the air bleed valve at the '9 o'clock' position rather than 12. It all seems to be good so far with an OEM thermo fitted correctly, but i really havnt had the chance to take the motor on a longer more strenuous trip yet.....I'll report back.
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On my way to pick up an OEM version now
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Ah...I do have an aftermarket thermostat in place. The oem version looks far more robust and after some research could be the issue. I'll switch it out and report back.
