Valkaru

Great info for everyone to remember, not only do I wipe it just before install, but do everything I can to not touch anything but the plug as it comes out of packaging and into the car. I think these bulbs lasted well over 12 months already, had tried Sylvanias last time that survived a few months and choked. My wife works for a Volvo dealer and their service folks say it is pretty common for both bulbs to blow at nearly the same time. I wonder if one dying causes a spike to nuke the other or something, but at $5 each, I spent more time chasing the error than worrying about EMP in my Subie:-p

Moral of the Story: Do not skip steps when troubleshooting One bulb looked okay, did not pull the other. Went and bought two new bulbs at Wally World for a grand total of $9.34, and swapped in the parking lot for success:) The bulb on the right side under the air feed tube was obviously blown, I was just lazy:dead: and did not pull it as I should have when first troubleshooting.

No, but that will be tomorrow if there is not some other obvious thing anyone suggests. Pulling the bulbs out, the filament looks good in each one. I really could jump power to test it, but a bad bulb usualy has a broken or melted filament, ro the glass is fogged, etc... These look like new:-\

My low beams decided to stop working yesterday, and I am now officially stumped:( Both bulbs appear good (amazing coincidence to have both blow at same time), just replaced one of the relays that seemed to be shorted (closed circuit with continuity checker across two legs, partial closed across power legs), no bad fuses in either fuse panel. For those that play with electrons all day long, I compared one HL relay to the other and once noting a difference, compared to the fog light and horn relays. Fog lights work, high beams work, all parking & signal lights work. 2001 OBW Limited, 147,000+ miles now, virtually always drive with headlights on and fogs off. Have replaced headlight bulbs a couple of times, but not enough to raise an alarm. Any body have any ideas what else I can check? Please let me know soon, the nights are getting longer and I refuse to blind oncoming traffic because of my incompetence. Thanks in advance:clap: Speed Safely! David

Don't be scared:grin: The timing belt was done at 60K, when they opened her up to replace both head gaskets on warranty along with the timing belt idler pulley. I paid for the new belt ($82 IIRC), but all else was covered. Kudos to the dealer for taking care of it (replacing the water pump at the same time, plus the oil and antifreeze change on their nickel). Could probably skip the belt this time, but might as well do it on the DREAM that this set of headgaskets will last more than 40K miles. Yes, I noticed the oil smell at 40K, antifreeze about 52K, not fault found at the dealer, had someone else do a pressure test and found the leak so the warratny repair occurred. Began smelling oil again at 95K, dealer said no faults found again:(

...i could be wrong on your specific vehicle, but i'd check before assuming it's easy And that, Ladies and Gentlemen, is why I posted on this esteemed site:) Gary, thanks for the words of warnings. I grew up on a TR-3a, then small & big block Chryslers of the 60's, leaving major engine work to someone else after that. The pics do indicate the sump having a bit of plumbing, etc... Maybe I can get them to lighten up on the charges for replacing the pan at the dealer, but am also going to have a local shop quote me repairs. They recited hours of labor and the variance if other work happens at the same time. Never meant to say valve cover, although that is the type of leakage I am experiencing. No contaminated oil or antifreeze, just some dirt/goo buildup on the head where oil leaks. I will look into CCR as well, although someone still has to do the swap for me:( Tthanks everyone

Left side has a small leak to the outside, no decrease in oil level over 5K miles (my interval using Mobil 1). The first set had each side leaking to the earth, small leaks but fixed on warranty that time

All right, kids, you all seem to have lots of knowledge about realistic repair costs, needs, etc... and I am hoping to get a warmer feeling about a dealer recommendation. Brought my '01 OBW (2.5, 4EAT, 130K miles) in for annual inspection, they tell me it needs the oil pan replaced, transmission harness o-ring replaced, oil pump resealed from leaking wrist pin plug(s) and left side head gasket replaced (oil leak). While in there, they are going to replace the timing belt and water pump. The oil pan is corroding (soft and punky) where the dip stick hole pierces the pan, otherwise the entire pan does not even have scratched paint. The head gaskets (oil on left, water on right leaking), water pump and timing belt were replaced at 60K miles. They are telling me ~$2200 for the repairs in one smooth motion, not counting the oil pan which would be an additional $375. I can buy the pan for $65 all in, so will do that myself at the next oil change. Assuming nothing else is found when they pull it apart, is this a reasonable/realistic price? I have been running Mobil 1 since 8K miles and the car still runs strong and gets 26 MPG in winter with me driving a little more enthusiastically than many local Subie drivers:grin:. Your comments are appreciated. And, yes, I do intend to keep the car another ~2 years, and am the original owner.

I picked up a set of take-offs from a WRX for someone who needed a bit more BLING. $300 for four alloy wheels with RE-92 tires having ~4-5K miles on them:). That meant the Blizzaks went on the original Outback alloys, but that was OK. Depending on your area and school of thought, steel wheels for winter are a better choice (potholes, salt, etc...), but I could not pass up the deal. I found the set on one of the more WRX strong sites (www.NASIOC.com or www.I-Club.com) and found someone close enough I did not have to fool with shipping costs.BTW, the RE-92's are not all that wonderful, especially as the tread depth goes down. The OD of the tires is a little small, so the speedometer is reading almost exactly 10% low according to my GPS. The shorter sidewalls make a slightly firmer ride and less sidewall flex if you are practicing GP driving in an Outback:brow: . Hope this helps, Speed Safely, David

Ranger: Sir? Who you callin' Sir? I work for a living:D:D. Original owner (0.7 miles when I test drove, my neighbor was teh dealership finance guy and delivered my car to my house so I could ride my motorcycle:D:D, so only 2.1 drivers on the car, and I have done ~99% of the miles myself), 2 dino oil changes before 10K miles, then Mobil 1 every 3-4K miles since then. Every maintenance before due or completely worn out (although the brakes only had a few hundred miles left if I hammered them). I will agree (and was trying to take into account) that the website(s) can amplify problems, considering the same person may post in 3 or more places, but it is still one problem. Luckily, I only have one user name, so everyone knows it is the same whiner;). Hearing others tell that techs and service managers advise they are doing 2-3 per week tells me the gasket is a bit more pervasive than that, but this is also just heresy. My one argument against that is that Subaru is extending a warranty and correcting these issues, which goes against the grain of most car mfgrs I had experience with. Of course, I could also take that as a VERY positive note, that they are fixing things that are even borderline, and I hope to come around to that feeling.

Scoobaroo: I do not recall at the moment where I saw the various comments (and it is ALL really just one person's opinion, fact or fiction), but here are the sites I regularly watch: forums.nasioc.com/forums; http://www.i-club.com; http://www.subaruoutback.org; plus USMB, of course:D NASIOC has a Legacy, Baja and Outback forum, while I-Club just has a Legacy forum. It was on one of the Legacy or Outback forums on those two sites I saw the message about the redesigned head gasket and people that had 1-3 replacements until the latest design was installed. You may want to go and do a search for head gasket on one of them if you want to see more info. Wish I could be more specific, and/or find a single soid reference of info that is direct or nearly direct from Subaru. Most of the time, it is information passed along with the best of intents, but only repeating what a service writer or similar has told someone. When all is said and done, Speed Safely and Live in Moderation. It will all come out in the end, we only hope the end is a LOT farther away than we fear. And now back to our regularly scheduled program, "Working for a Living"

Scoobaroo: I have been surfing around (since before I bought the car and constantly since), and this head gasket issue on the Ph II engines seems to have become popular in the last 9-12 months. Some comments indicate the gasket WAS redesigned, and cars built after late 2001 are not impacted at all (that have been noted) and those that had gaskets replaced since 2002 have been OK also. So IF it happens w/in or near the warranty, it will get fixed and be ALL better:D

Dang, Stoneman, that is not a happy list. I am running neck-to-neck with you, and even live in NH! Bought the car based on everyone's love of it, longevity, etc... Owned since new end of 2001, cleared 64K miles this morning on the way in to work in Manchester. Replaced the brakes at all corners at 49K, rotors replaced up front. Manchester Subaru replaced the timing belt tensioner on warranty at ~53K miles (I had knocking that only got worse when cold, joked that it was a diesel but had me scared for $$), and paid for a new belt while it was pulled down. They then replaced both head gaskets at ~58K miles, and threw in the water pump and thermostat while they were there. I also was sold on the car, but I agree these are major items early in a vehicle's life, warranty or not. Hearing about more folks having head gasket problems (and now transmissions seem to be getting 'popular'), on a second/third generation engine is pretty sad. Can I recommend the car to another person, only with warnings about problems that I have had that seem to be COMMON. I still enjoy driving the car, feel that it was a fair price for what I got, but am getting a bit more concerned about the transmission now. We were planning on keeping the car to ~180K miles (another 2-3 years) Good Luck on whatever you do, and Speed Safely:D:D

I had the timing belt tensioner replaced (on warranty) at 53K miles, and paid for the belt just because. Having a 100K service interval on the belt, I was already past halfway there, and it only cost ~$83 (parts only, labor on warranty). The car went in and had both head gaskets replaced at ~58K, and the dealer included the water pump and thermostat as part of the warranty repair. He said when the major systems are pulled down like that, they just do these other items because it is the smart thing. Plus, I got free oil and antifreeze changes:D, and the dealer always washes the car when they do a service. Manchester Subaru in Manchester, NH, by the way. Speed Safely!!

Where's it go:( 46, 318 bytes on my puter, so it is under the maximum:cool: