88SubGL
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Posts posted by 88SubGL
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Sounds like it may need to go to the dealer. Was the windshield replaced recently?
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Are you sure it’s not a heat shield on the exhaust?
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7 hours ago, el_freddo said:
And then buy what?
Another Subaru that that dealer hasn’t touched, because that dealership seems to be the source of most of the problems.
7 hours ago, el_freddo said:I’d keep the vehicle you’ve ironed the issues out of.
Are the issues all ironed out now?
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17 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Why’s that?
Because he’s had so many problems with this car and right now it’s running ok and nothing is falling apart at the moment. Time to sell! Haha
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Now’s the time to sell! Haha
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Is the choke operating correctly?
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They won’t let you see or get in YOUR car? Tell them you need to get something out of the car. If they’re still hesitant, go to the owner of the dealership.
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If you don’t feel any play in the hinges, then it’s probably the door adjustment. Long doors can be a pain that way. I did paint and body work for years and when I first started, my uncle who started doing bodywork when they still used lead, taught me how to adjust them. Take a short piece of 2x4 and place it 6-8 inches from the front of the door jam, between the rocker and the door, and kind of push up as close the door against the 2x4. Do it two or three times and check and see if there’s any improvement. Don’t go crazy with the pressure. Used to have to do this on ‘70’s Chevy’s, there hinges were welded to the body, no bolts to play with.
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Do you have power to the small wire on the starter? Start there and work your way back. It could be the ignition switch, not the part where key goes in, but the electrical connection.
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What’s with the funky spare tire? It’s not a Bronco.
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Awesome job! No wonder your daughter wants to claim it in 6 years.
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Nice work! I never thought of New Zealand as being a rust prone area. Shows how much I know.
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The machinist that I use, told me that on a Subaru, all you have to do is look at the valves wrong and they bend. At the time he had about 6 sets of Subaru heads sitting there. He also said that the valves are not expensive and he charges $250-$300 to recondition a set of heads.
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Can’t wait to see this finished. Really cool project.
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That engine is so easy to pull, there’s no way I would do it in the car unless I had no other choice. Kudos for getting it done.
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I guess it would depend on how solid it is. If it’s rusty, I wouldn’t even consider it.
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This may be a dumb question, but is the bulb burned out on the BMW?
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I don’t know about the XT, but my 6 cylinder 2005 Outback had a 5 speed automatic. I’m pretty sure all n/a 4 cylinder cars had the 4 speeds.
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I would say, if you’re wanting to do the EJ swap sooner than expected, go with the nitrous. At least you should have some fun before the swap.
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Nice looking DL! Especially with 250k on it.
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Just my opinion, but the first thing I would do is replace the fuel filter. I assume it has the external, under hood filter. According to what you wrote, it hasn’t been replaced in 200,000 miles, not even when the fuel injection service was done? It may not help your problem but it won’t hurt it.
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Any possibility of having a new core put in the original radiator? I’m sure it would last much longer than most any aftermarket radiator.
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I think Subaru gave you the wrong part. It should be a direct replacement, that’s why they ask for the vin.
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WOW! Never seen anything like that.
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Underpowered Ignition coil ea81
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Adding a relay to the ignition circuit may help.