Winterpie0220

Hey! So this write up looks great for what I’m trying to do to my 91 Loyale. Plus it’s nearly impossible to find stock suspension parts for that vehicle anyway, so it kind of fell right into place. Regardless, I was just wondering if you replaced the stock 13” wheels for a larger size as you said it technically put an (almost) 2” lift on the vehicle. I’d rather keep my little 13” wheels just cause tires are cheap for them and it’s Nearly impossible to find 4 lug wheels unless you get genuine Subaru ones which are pretty expensive. What’s your advice/experience in that regard? @Loyale 2.7 Turbo

That’s my plan eventually. I’m a poor college student at the moment, so an ej swap although tantalizing is kind of out of the question for me financially. My plan is to keep the ea82 until I graduate (or later) lol. I’m in the process of pulling the motor cause it needs seals and gaskets anyways. I’m gonna have to pull the heads anyways to get them machined, and a shop in town said they could probably fix the head thread anyways. So that’ll knock out two birds with one stone (hopefully). And hopefully by doing that it’ll buy me time to save up for the motor swap and other issues. (There’s quite a few of them). Lol. So if and when I do the 2jz swap, will that make the 4wd useless? Or will it just be awd?

I had tried to jb weld it back together. It didn’t work. It’s the lower left valve cover bolt.

Casting is broken off. (Sigh)

I’m gonna tear into that pretty soon, but another issue that I have is I broke the thread housing on my cylinder head when attaching my valve cover. Everyone at my work says I need to replace the whole head. But performance wise it’s running great. Is there a way to repair the thread to eliminate the headache of basically doing a whole new top end job?

NMy next plan for the wiring situation is the power window motor wiring, I think to eliminate any headache of actually trying to find the break, I’ll just replace the wire itself. I just can’t to believe it could be frayed in multiple places. Because I figure if I don’t use the windows it won’t ground out, but even if I don’t use the windows it still blows the fuse. And I’ve looked at the wiring diagrams over and over and the window motor doesn’t use the combination switch (turn signals and reverse lights) (there’s like five components going to fuse 10 (power windows, combination switch for turn signals, reverse lights and hazards, the auto seat belt motor (which is now unplugged), and 4wd actuator). It blows the fuse when I use the windows and when I don’t, so I’m thinking it’s probably both power windows and the combination switch wiring that’s grounding out. Thoughts?

I know this is probably an old thread. But I think I may be in a similar situation as @GlenSz . I have a 1992 Subaru Loyale and I really like my little wagon (at times). At the moment it’s having a wiring problem fuse 10 keeps blowing. But other than that, it’s been a relatively decent vehicle. It still drives and is yet to leave me stranded. But let me just list off what I have done personally and what it needs next. What I’ve done: full tune up: plugs, wires, cap and rotor, air filter, ignition coil (probably not necessary, I incorrectly thought that it was an ignition problem, was a fuel issue). Fuel filter and lines. (lol I accidentally reversed the fuel lines which has now been corrected). Fuel injector (single fuel injected engine is amazing by the way!) battery, cables, and terminals new front end (both CV axles, tie rods inner and outer, sway bar and control arm bushings (had to finagle some performance bushings to get them to fit, ground down to fit in the h, the passenger control arm as the sway bar was no longer attached to the control arm, front wheel bearings and seals). new brake system (calipers, pads, rotors, and bled brakes) (obviously). also new fluids (oil change, transmission and rear diff fluid change) repaired rear washer reservoir (which is weirdly cool I must admit.) small leak, in tank welded it back together. Replaced the O2 sensor and cleaned up the pipe shields. Im also in the process of doing the muffler as well. So after all that most sane people would say, ok I’m done. But I feel like I’ve already gone this far. I may as well keep going. Here’s where I need to go next: I made a mistake when replacing the valve cover gaskets (broke the thread housing on the cylinder head when putting the valve cover bolt back on) so.. i need a new cylinder head gaskets all around (top end and lower end gaskets) I figure I should do both if I’m pulling the engine out. as well as T belt and water pump and clutch radiator hoses and thermostat obviously a coolant flush as well when looking at the muffler, noticed rear axles were leaking grease, so probably need to replace both rear axles and seals needs new suspension all around power steering pump and lines and there has been a very very frustrating wiring problem that continued to blow fuse 10. I unplugged my seat belt motors on the upright position to see if that solved the problem (it didn’t). The only circuits left that I can think of is either for the power window motor, or the combination switch in the dash. So there’s that. A relatively cheap fix but requires a lot of time and frustration. If I do it myself. And a new windshield which I can’t replace myself unfortunately. So I don’t think I’ve forgotten anything, but that’s about the jist of my issues. My coworkers think I should sell my suby, and at times I sometimes agree with them, but then I think, if I solve all these issues, i won’t have to worry about them anymore for a long long while. And I’ve already come so far, and if I try and sell or trade for something else, I may buy another with the same or new problems. What do you think? Should I sell? Or should I keep going?

Hello people, I’m working on a 92 Subaru Loyale, and I need to replace my control arm, unfortunately the only place I could find the correct control arm was on eBay. And it’s used. Ok. That’ll be ok. My only issue now is, I’m trying to find the sway bar link kit/stabilizer link kit to connect my sway bar to the control arm. Absolutely nothing. Does anyone know where to get stabilizer links for older subies?