Deener2

Hi, I am in Vancouver, b.c.

Mods...I wasn't sure where to post this, I hope its ok here? If not, please direct me. I have an unused Gates Timing Kit,TCKWP277A that I bought a while ago when I thought I had a leaky water pump on a 98 forester 2.5, but it was just the pipe. I never used it, sold the car, and now we are moving so I'm cleaning up the shop. Happy to sell for super cheap, if you pay shipping.

GD!!!! Thanks for chiming in. I am very familiar with your posts, and I didn't expect you would still be around this board. You have guided me through many ea82 and even a few ej issues in the past. One thing it looked to be similar in size to, was the dip stick o-rings, but mine are still intact. I checked the cam sensors and they are still there...and also a little bigger. I think you are right. I'm not going to worry about it too much, but thanks everyone for the input!!! Dean

Yes, thank you. All of these suggestions are really helpful.

All of the turbo seals appear to be copper washers. I didn't see anything rubber on the unt It except for the bottom hose, which its definitely not from there.

I didn't see any seals on the vvt sensors when they came out. They are a bit bigger than this ring too. Did not disconnect power steering, just unbolted the unit and swung it over. I DID undo the power steering lines. I will check around there. I didn't take the injectors off, just unbolted the entire intake.

Actually, no the oil pump is still on. Haven't removed it either. I do recall some similar rings like that on the old ea82 pumps, but I haven't touched one of those in this shop ever. Good suggestion though...

Well guys, there are a few things that I would like to note about these engines that I wasn't prepared for; 1. Clamps. Some of those factory clamps are the weird types that are put on with a special tool. Be prepared to find the proper tool to re-install them or buy a pile of various new worm gear clamps (lots of 20ish mm, a few closer to 30mm) to replace the factory weirdos. 2. Breaking of bolts. I am guessing that the extra heat from the turbo models had a role in me breaking so many bolts. I am always very careful and have worked on many rusty loyales...however, one of the m6x1 bolts that hold the egr pipe on the back of the heads just sheared off with minimal pressure. Had to heli-coil it because I drilled off-center (golf clap). I also broke a bellhousing bolt. It seized up halfway out, but I managed to get it out with a nut extractor, then chased it with an m10x1.25 tap. 3. Cam sprocket bolts - again I suspect that heat played a role here but I had to drill all four of them and even after drilling past the bolt heads with cobalt bits, it took a 3 foot breaker bar and nut extractors to get the bolts off. Attached is a pic of one of the cam bolts. Lesson learned: buy the avcs cam sprocket tools. I broke an old timing belt in four places trying to hold the cams in place with vice grips...so I wont try that method again. 4. Avcs/oil feed to the turbo. Not all of the banjo bolt ports are the same size. There is one with a very tiny hole that bolts right on top of the turbo. Good thing I took a ton of pics and labeled everything, otherwise I wouldn't have known where it went. 5. Cam caps/carriers. There are 4 bolts that hold the caps over top of each cam. During dis-assembly, pay attention to which bolts go where. Two have threads all the way down and two only have half threads. 6. Fuel line connections. There are special disconnect tools that you can buy that are supposed to help you disconnect the fuel lines. I just used two right angled pick and slid them down the plastic clips. If you put them in at 90 degrees to the little notches on the plastic, you can release the clips as I did, without the special disconnect tool.

Ha ha...yeah, I cannot locate anything of the sort that it could be from on the intake or engine etc. The thing is, I swept the floor before starting the tear down, so I have reason to suspect it very well could have come from the engine.

Hi all, I am in the middle of a headgasket job and I found an extra part on the ground that I don't recall seeing on the tear down. This is on a 2010 forester xt. It's a small rubber washer, it seems very brittle now and I cracked it in half by barely touching it. Can anyone identify it???? I have no idea where it could have come from, so I am not even sure that it came from this engine.

Cool, that makes sense. Ill keep an eye on it!

The turbo is on top of the engine, passenger side. I have thought about replacing it, but it's fairly easy to access, so if the shaft is still solid when I get it out, I will keep it for a while. I do have some new banjo bolts without the screens that are going in for sure. I haven't gone down the turbo replacement rabbit hole yet...like which turbo I should replace it with, or just replace the turbine/guts or get a bigger one etc. Ha ha - I fear that once I do, I'll be looking for other upgrade components, because you know...I like to go fast. On that note, are there any suggestions on replacing/rebuilding the turbo? If I need to start a new thread...happy to do so! Thanks for the responses, guys. I really appreciate it.

It's easier to cut the AC belt because it's a 'stretch fit' type belt, with no tensioner thing like the older models have. You are encouraged to use a special tool to slip the belt over the crank. I have done it before without the tool and it can be done with some patience and care. Thanks for the tip about covering the turbo to keep it free of debris. I never would've thought of that.

Hi Folks! I am about to do a head gasket job on my 2010 Forester XT premium and I've never pulled a turbo engine before. I am looking for any tips or tricks to be aware of. I have done many ea82's and even non-turbo ej25 dohc and sohc's just never touched a turbo model. It looks like I'll be cutting the A/C stretch belt and maybe just undoing the up-pipe to get it out...but the rest looks straightforward. I am doing all the seals, gaskets, plugs, decking the heads, pcv etc, while its out but I just want to know if there are any special procedures for the pull due to the turbo. Thanks in advance! Dean