minty

"They were always slow." Thanks! I'll check that out.

Does anyone know what causes the slow windows symptom? I've been searching around on this site for a bit, then resorted to online search engines but all I've found are issues where the window stops working entirely... nothing about how long it actually takes for the automatic windows to roll up. Is it just age.... old servo motors or something? THANKS!

Hello, Does anyone know what these wires are for? Yellow, black, white, green.... I just browsed through my Haynes but didn't find anything exactly. The closest thing I found was page 3-15 where there are two arrows pointing and something *near* these wires called a compressor pulser.

The child safety switch was engaged, many thanks @DaveT for that one. No longer have to reach out and open door from outside. I have had my door panels off quite a few times since buying it last April, and when taking the door panel off this time (the rear passenger), I noticed the wiring leading to the window switch was completely unplugged. I was shocked, because like I said, I've had the door panels off a few times and have always plugged everything back in. So, many thanks to @Len Dawg for saying " go in and look at it". I suppose I assumed it was plugged in already. I am down to just the door lock not working. When I lock my door from the driver's seat, it locks all doors except the rear passenger. Because there is only one fuse for all doors/windows (I believe it is the "DR-LOCK" fuse), I don't think it's the fuse, it looks good and clean. I even swapped the DR-LOCK fuse out for fun, with the "SPARE" 20A fuse that is right next to the fuse removal tool. Still no luck. My thought is I need to test voltage on the wires (leading to the rear passenger door) while I engage the lock via driver's door. If I get a reading (would I be looking for 12V?), would that mean the issue lies further towards the door? Obviously.... I guess now that I got the window up right before rainy season in WA, I don't mind so much. Still would be nice to fix the one and only thing wrong with Minty.

Hello, I have a 1991 Subaru Loyale wagon. When I bought it recently, the only thing wrong with it was the rear passenger door lock would not function -- the person sitting in the back seat would have to use the electric window switch to roll the window down, reach out, and open the door from the outside. Recently, the window has also stopped working on this door. At first I was suspect of the black door unlocking mechanism (since the door wouldn't lock/unlock from the main driver's switch) inside the door frame, just behind/below the outside door latch . But now that the window has stopped working, I am thinking the door lock/unlock mechanism might be fine, and my issue lies further upstream. Thoughts? I am completely new to Subaru. I do have the Chilton manual for it but in this case it doesn't help much. I also don't really know how to use a voltmeter, but I would learn if needed (yay youtube). Just putting this out there in case someone says "yup, common problem, it's this/that...". I tried looking for threads on this topic in this specific forum related to this but the search function only produced ~1600 *pages* of results, of which the first ~10 (pages) proved the search function is useless.

Hello! Just joined after buying a 1991 Loyale "Minty". All original and only thing wrong is the rear passenger door does not lock/unlock automatically with the rest of the doors. Even if the person unlocks on the door manually from the inside they cannot get out with the door handle. Someone has to let them out from the outside handle. That and the thermostat might need to be replaced because it gets very hot and then suddenly drops to normal temperature.... but this has changed over the last couple weeks -- it no longer gets very near the H (high temp), rather, only to about a 1/4" from the top, then settles back to about 1/4" from the bottom. The only thing I plan to change are the speakers, and put an AUX input (somewhere) for my phone. Also would like to replace my cigarette lighter with a USB car charger -- I am told I can simply pull out the cig lighter, leaving its housing in place and plug in one of these USB car chargers. That doesn't make sense to me, since the housing is not a 12 V DC charger, but a BURNER for the cig plug. (?). I am under the impression the entire cig housing needs to come out and a 12 V DC plug needs to be wired in. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Any known gremlins; please don't hesitate to share. So far I love this thing! ("Downgraded" from a 2006 LR3 (JUNK!!!!!!!!!!!!)).