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uniberp1

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uniberp1 last won the day on January 2 2019

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About uniberp1

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  • Location
    Walker, MI
  • Vehicles
    99forester 08forester

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  1. Get one that doesn't have any rod-knock/piston slap. Check the oil.
  2. Have you ever changed the spark plugs? Every 40k miles is what is recommended.
  3. A half shaft parts and labor should cost your about $200 by "someone", which I assume you meant some non-professional. The part alone is about $100 and they are readily available. For a questionable car it really doesn't matter what you install. Getting someone to pull one off a wrecked car will cost you about the same. Since the car has not been running in a year there are many other things that could be wrong, such as bad gas, rusted exhaust, etc.
  4. I achieved a solid fix on this. 5/16 Dorman compression fittings will work on the subaru 8mm fuel line. No pics yet, it's been snowy or rainy since. The big trick is to route the new fuel line forward and to the right of the fuel pump cover, outside the interior, along the brake lines. I used a piece of wire to lead it through until I could see it from beneath, then routed it in front of the rear subframe and over the driveshaft cover. Parts needed, I got everything I needed at a local car parts: 1 - 5/16 double compression fitting, like dorman 490-024.1 1 - 5/16 Inverted Flare Barb with Male Connector - like Dorman 785-402D 1 - 12" 5/16 steel brake line with inverted flare fittings. 1 - double 5/16 female inverted flare union. Another Dorman part 6 feet of 5/16 high pressure fuel injection hose. A tubing bender is advisable. You're going to make a couple of 90 degree bends in the steel tube. 1. Remove the back seat, and remove the reinforcing bar that sits over the fuel lines. 2. Using a small tube cutter, cut the 8mm steel fuel line at a straight section. The other end may be rusted off, or leaking, cut it off so it doesn't hang. 3. The compression fitting will JUST fit on the 8mm. Tap it gently. 4. Cut one end from the brake line and put a couple 90 degree bends in it to fit approximately where the original went. Assemble the compression union. 5. Assemble the remaining barb and flare coupling, using solid band hose clamps. The other trick, for security, at the tank end of the hose, is to split and notch the hose, so it can be pushed over the catch bulge on the steel line from the pump. Put one clamp below the bulge and one above it, to secure it from blowing off. This has held for a month or so, with no signs of slipping.
  5. In CAN bus systems brake lights can be linked to traction control. Good luck.
  6. So back to DIY. The line snapped off in my hand as I tried to release the clip, exactly at the point in the pict at top below the yellow pipe. I bought a 5/16 brake line, a 5/16 compression fitting, a 5/16 tapered seat and a 5/16 barb with 1 sharp ring about as long as the pic at summit. ...Next day: barb insert failed... inserting a barb into a nylon line without special tools is not possible. Mating a 5/16 brake line to 8mm Subaru oem fuel line works just fine using a 5/16 compression fitting. Hard metal connection. Next step: There is now a 5/16 male inverted flare at the end of the fuel line by the right rear wheel. I will run a new 5/16 fuel injection rubber hose to the tank, with a flare barb on the forward end and just shove it on the outlet tube on the sender and clamp the spoob out of it, I guess. If I just disconnect the front tank straps and lower the front will I be able to fish the new HP rubber tube through to the left side?
  7. How much harder and tricky would it be to replace the entire fuel line? Exact same problem on my 99 Also, the idea of a complete rubber hose to the filter up front, where it seems to be hose clamped, seems reasonable. This part seems available, but you never know until you order it. $38 bucks. https://www.certifiedsubaruparts.com/p/Subaru__Forester/PIPE-DELIVERY/49249562/42065FC080.html .
  8. Yah thanks. I just want something a little heavier and smoother for my commute in Michigan (meaning snow). And I like weirdo GT's like my old P1800. And I know Subarus, kinda. And I don't want to deal with CANbus, if that's what they are using now. SVXnet seems to show the enthusiasm is fading. There is one user there who seemed to try to make a business building bulletproof transmissions, but IDK if he did. If I find an SVX for super cheap it might be worth it., even with a $3k tranny. They talk about the VTD "center diff". Isn't that really the tailshaft housing? " Giugaro" used to mean something, for God's sake. Just kidding. So did "Ghia". Not really. Yes the original Cosmo is very pretty.
  9. 73k. They claim it shifts fine. They sent me pics of the original upholstery, which seem to be perfect. No dash cracks that I can see. https://jspecauto.com/en/subaru/complete-cars/1675/1994-subaru-alcyone-svx-230hp-concept-rhd-sport-coupe/ This should have the VTD center diff, so it is supposedly a better driver. IDK what driving an RHD car is like. Somebody should anyhow. I'm deciding if it's worth the plane ticket to go see.
  10. The evaporator core is not readily visible. You should get in there somehow and look for dye leaks.
  11. Maybe the boiling water saturated the plug wires. Plugwires are kinda critical . You gotta use special ones: NGK or OEM. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2003,outback,2.5l+h4,1418161,ignition,spark+plug+wire+set,7224
  12. It's both. 5 hours? So get AAA and you get a 200 mile tow free. Just start early and have a backup plan. Request extra time off.
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